MARKETING 

AND 

HOUSEWORK    MANUAL 


MARKETING 

AND 

HOUSEWORK    MANUAL 


BY 

S.   AGNES    DONHAM 

INSTRUCTOR    IN    HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 
GARLAND   SCHOOL   OP   HOME   MAKING,   BOSTON 


BOSTON 

LITTLE,  BROWN,  AND  COMPANY 
1918 


Copyright,  1917, 
BY  LITTLE,  BROWN,  AND  COMPANY. 


All  rights  reserved 

Published,  November,  1917 
Reprinted,  December,  1917 


TYPOGRAPHY  BY  THE  PLIMPTON  PRESS,  NORWOOD,  MASS.,  U.S.A. 
PRINTED     BY    S.    J.    PARKHILL    4    CO.,     BOSTON,    MASS.,    U.S.A. 


TO   MY   FATHER   AND   MOTHER 
WHOSE   IDEALS   ARE   MY   INSPIRATION 


393^59 


CHAPTER 


CONTENTS 
PART  I 


PAGE 


INTRODUCTION 2 

I.     GENERAL  RULES  FOR  MARKETING       .      .  3 

*  II.     MARKETING  CHARTS 9 

III.     MENU  MAKING    l 80 

*  IV.     MENU  AND  ORDER  SHEETS      ....  97 

V.     How   TO   SELECT    FOODS  —  1.  WHAT   THE 

BODY  NEEDS 100 

VI.     FOOD  INVENTORY 107 

PART   II 

INTRODUCTION 114 

VII.     THE  CELLAR  AND  LAUNDRY    .      .      .      .  115 

VIII.     THE  KITCHEN  AND  KITCHEN  PANTRY       .  127 
IX.     THE    DINING    ROOM,    PANTRY    AND    DISH 

WASHING 146 

X.     THE   DINING   ROOM  AND   TABLE   SERVICE  152 

XL     THE  LIVING  ROOM 160 

XII.     THE  CHAMBERS  AND  BED  MAKING     .      .  167 

XIII.  THE  BATHROOM  AND  STORAGE  CLOSETS    .  174 

XIV.  GENERAL  CLEANING  —  SWEEPING,  DUSTING  181 
XV.     To  OPEN  AND  CLOSE  A  HOUSE    .      .      .  199 

XVI.     HOUSE  INSPECTIONS 205 

XVII.     SMALL  REPAIRS,  PLUMBING  TROUBLES      .  208 
XVIII.     THE    READING    OF    GAS    AND    ELECTRIC 

METERS 214 

*  XIX.     PROGRAM  OF  WORK      ......  218 

XX.     HOUSEHOLD  PESTS 226 

INDEX 237 


PART  I 
MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


-    - 
• 


INTRODUCTION 

THE  subject  matter  of  this  manual  is  the  result 
of  twenty  years'  study  and  experience  in  teaching. 
Each  year  I  have  seen  reason  to  change  it  and  have 
been  glad  it  was  not  in  permanent  form.  It  has  now 
reached  the  place  where  it  seems  to  meet  a  definite 
need  in  schools,  and  promises  to  the  young  housewife 
material  which  she  will  find  useful  and  which  will 
save  much  tune  over  the  slow  process  of  learning  by 
experience. 

There  are  many  books  on  the  market  which  give 
help  to  the  home  maker,  and  I  should  hesitate  to  add 
to  the  number  if  this  were  in  the  usual  form,  but  its 
brevity  and  the  elimination  of  all  except  almost  cata- 
logue detail  make  it  seem  probable  that  the  busy 
or  inexperienced  may  find  time  and  inclination  to  go 
to  it  for  help  and  direction. 

I  have  purposely  kept  to  the  short,  exact  statement 
that  there  need  be  no  superfluous  words  to  bewilder 
the  inexperienced  and  irritate  the  hurried. 

For  much  of  the  inspiration  which  makes  the  book 
possible,  I  am  indebted  to  Mrs.  Margaret  J.  Stannard 
and  my  co-workers  at  the  Garland  School  of  Home 
Making.  To  Miss  Louisa  A.  Nicholas,  Miss  S.  Maria 
Elliott,  Mrs.  Maria  W.  Milliard,  Mr.  Edward  E. 
Thurston,  Mr.  George  Hutchinson,  and  a  large  number 
of  others  I  am  grateful  for  instruction  and  criticism. 
To  Mrs.  Harriet  Taber  Richardson  is  due  acknowledg- 
ment for  the  idea  from  which  I  worked  out  the  order 
sheets.  To  my  mother  and  father  belong  the  credit 
for  the  practical  ability  and  desire  to  be  useful  which 
led  me  into  this  great  work  of  Home  Economics. 

2 


MARKETING 

AND 

HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

CHAPTER  I 
GENERAL  RULES   FOR   MARKETING 

A  MARKET  is  a  place  where  commodities  are  bought 
and  sold. 

Early  food  markets  were  possibly  the  outgrowth  of 
great  religious  festivals.  People  gathered  from  a  dis- 
tance for  several  days'  festivities  and  brought  food  for 
their  own  use  and  exchanged  the  excess  for  foods  strange 
to  them  which  people  from  other  parts  of  the  country 
brought. 

Gradually  they  came  to  provide  definitely  for  such 
exchange,  and  in  tune  such  gatherings  became  es- 
tablished markets  for  the  barter  of  any  produce  not 
necessary  to  the  producer. 

Now,  food  markets  are  the  centers  of  exchange  not 
only  between  producers  of  foodstuffs,  but  between 
producers,  or  their  agents,  and  consumers,  who  use 
money  instead  of  similar  produce  as  a  medium  of 
exchange,  and  the  food  frequently  passes  through  the 
hands  of  several  middlemen  before  coming  into  the 
home  of  the  consumer. 

It  is  well  to  make  use  of  every  assistance  in  market- 
ing. 


4     MARKETING  AND   HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Investigate  the  various  methods  —  private  dealers, 
cooperative  buying,  cooperative  markets,  municipal 
markets,  public  markets,  purchasing  from  producer 
by  cart,  express,  or  parcel  post. 

Make  use  of  all  the  educational  material  you  can 
find: 

Federal,  State,  and  City  bulletins, 
Board  of  Health  cards, 
Agricultural  College  bulletins, 
Magazine  articles, 
Conference  with  neighbors. 

Consider  which  methods  are  best  suited  to  your 
needs  and  follow  them  until  convinced  that  others  are 
better.  One  gains  little  by  trying  first  one  way  and 
then  another  without  fairly  testing  each. 

The  corner  storekeeper  must  ask  higher  prices  than 
the  firm  with  larger  business  and  more  extensive  plant. 
We  demand  much  from  the  small  store  hi  our  emer- 
gencies and  usually  give  the  bulk  of  our  trade  to  the 
large  dealer. 

Public  markets  often  save  much,  but  we  must  con- 
sider that  we  pay  carfare  and  use  extra  time  to  reach 
them.  The  reduction  in  price  is  frequently  apparent 
rather  than  real.  We  forget  the  cost  of  the  gasolene 
which  we  used  in  reaching  the  larger  market. 

Peddlers  with  regular  routes  may  usually  be  depended 
upon. 

The  huckster  knows  you  won't  remember  his  face 
when  he  appears  again  and  is  less  likely  to  give  honest 
weight  and  quality. 

Do  not  expect  to  learn  to  market  well  by  telephoning 
to  your  favorite  clerk  or  reading  books  on  the  subject. 
You  can  learn  only  by  constant  use  of  every  rule  you 
know  and  by  repeated  visits  to  market  and  practice 
in  selection. 


GENERAL  RULES  FOR  MARKETING    5 

Build  upon  your  own  failures  and  successes;  but  let 
the  knowledge  of  others  help  you  do  so. 

General  Rules  for  Marketing 
Choose  your  market  carefully. 
Sanitation: 

Consider  the  sanitary  arrangements  of  the  store,  the 
storage  spaces,  and  the  yard;  position  of  toilets, 
presence  of  animals,   the   covering  of  bins,   the 
standard  of  cleanliness  all  through  the  store. 
Watch  to  see  that  the  clerks  employed  have  clean 
appearance    and    clean   habits   and   methods   of 
handling  the  goods. 
Quality: 

Do  not  demand  fancy  quality  unless  paying  for  it. 
See  that  you  receive  the  quality  for  which  you  are 

willing  to  pay. 
Weight: 
Choose  a  dealer  who  gives  accurate  weight  and 

measure. 
Prices: 

Should  be  reasonable  for  the  quality  you  demand. 
Treatment  of  Customers: 
Should  be  courteous  and  considerate. 

Be  considerate  in  your  demands  for  service. 

Require  no  unnecessary  time  from  the  clerks. 

Do  not  ask  for  repeated  deliveries;    make  one  order 

do. 

Allow  tune  for  delivery. 
Do  not  ask  for  constant  favors. 
Insist  upon  the  weight  and  quality  for  which  you 

are  paying. 

Do  not  be  impossible  to  suit. 
Extra  quality  and  cleanliness  are  costly. 


6     MARKETING   AND   HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

If  you  demand  good  sanitation  and  fancy   brands, 

you  must  pay  for  them. 
Bills  should  be  paid  promptly. 
It  is  your  privilege  to  choose  the  market  where  you 

will  buy. 

It  is  your  duty  to  pay  for  the   service  you   de- 
mand. 

Methods  of  Marketing 

1.  Plan  your  meals  for  a  week  ahead  if  possible. 

2.  Make  a  list  of  supplies  required  in  the  menus. 

3.  Consult  the  cook  or  pantry  to  see  if  any  of  these 

supplies  must  be  replenished  within  a  week. 

4.  Make  a  list  of  all  staples  required,  with  amounts 

and  brands  desired. 

5.  Make  a  list  of  all  perishable  supplies  for  each  day, 

with  item  as  to  the  time  the  order  should  be 
given. 

6.  Order  the  staple  articles  which  will  insure  your 

supply  for  a  week  at  least,  longer  if  you  have 
storage. 

7.  Go  to  market  and  choose  the  perishable  articles, 

for  two  or  three  days  ahead  if  necessary.     Meat 
may  be  held  and  sent  as  required. 

8.  Choose  perishable  articles  yourself.     It  is  of  no 

use  to  go  to  market  simply  to  read  an  order  to 
the  clerk. 

9.  Visit  the  market  often  enough  to  keep  in  touch 

with  the  seasons,  prices,  qualities,  and  choice. 
We  forget  what  we  do  not  see. 

10.   Change  your  plan  if  the  conditions  or  contents  of 
the  market  make  it  desirable  or  necessary. 

Rules  for  Buying 

1.  Plan  what  you  will  buy. 

2.  Ask  the  price  before  ordering. 


GENERAL  RULES  FOR  MARKETING     7 

3.  See  if  you  can  save  by  buying  in  quantity. 

4.  If  the  price  is  high,  try  to  discover  cheaper  substi- 

tutes. 

(a)  If  prices  are  higher  than  you  can  afford 
to  pay,  substitute  a  cheaper  food  of  the  same 
food  value. 

(6)  Prices  of  food  are  usually  regulated  by  supply 
or  demand.  Boycotts  do  little  or  no  good. 
In  a  city  near  Boston  it  cost  38  cents  a 
dozen  to  raise  and  market  eggs.  Eggs  be- 
low 40  cents  a  dozen  were  thus  sold  without 
profit.  The  farm  produced  its  largest  sup- 
ply when  eggs  were  selling  below  36  cents  a 
dozen.  The  winter  prices  hardly  made  up 
the  loss.  It  was  the  supply  and  not  the 
demand  which  regulated  the  price. 
Investigate  before  you  condemn. 
Buy  any  food  as  long  as  you  can  afford  it; 
substitute  when  the  price  is  prohibitive. 

5.  When  buying  perishable  articles,  do  not  order  more 

than  can  be  used  to  advantage.     Study  actual 
needs. 

6.  Know  the  difference  between  real  and  apparent 

cost.  Example:  Rump  steak  at  48  cents  a  pound 
is  nearly  all  edible,  and  the  real  and  apparent 
costs  are  practically  alike;  while  sirloin  steak 
at  38  cents  a  pound  has  much  waste,  and  the 
/cost  of  the  portion  actually  used  may  reach 
74  cents  a  pound.  The  real  cost  is  thus  36  cents 
more  than  the  apparent  cost. 

7.  Order  a  definite  quantity  —  by  weight  or  measure; 

not  ten  or  fifteen  cents'  worth. 

8.  Check  the  dealer's  weight  by  watching  or  by 

reweighing.    See  that  the  scales   are  at   zero 
before  food  is  placed  on  them. 


8     MARKETING  AND   HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

9.  Do  not  pay  for  the  weight  of  wrapping  paper, 
etc.    Have  trimmings  sent  home  and  use  them. 

10.  Buy  when  prices  are  reasonable.     Nearly  every 

food  material  has  a  seasonal  rise  and  fall  in  price. 
Watch  for  drops  in  prices  and  take  advantage 
of  them  if  possible. 

11.  Do  not  buy  anything  simply  because  it  is  cheap. 

Know  that  you  need  to  use  it. 

12.  Buy  by  brand  name  if  you  have  found  a  brand  of 

satisfactory  quality.  Experiment  with  different 
products  until  you  have  found  the  one  you 
prefer;  then  order  that  brand  until  you  see 
reason  to  change  for  something  better  suited 
to  your  need. 

13.  In  general,  do  not  buy  below  the  market  price 

unless  you  know  the  reason  for  the  reduction. 
There  is  always  a  reason.  If  flour  is  selling  at 
$10  a  barrel  and  a  dealer  offers  it  for  $8,  it  is 
probably  a  poor  or  damaged  flour. 


CHAPTER  II 
MARKETING  CHARTS 

THESE  charts  are  designed  to  assist  the  housewife 
or  student  in  the  choice,  purchase,  and  care  of  food- 
stuffs. It  has  been  manifestly  impossible  to  include 
every  foodstuff  known  to  each  locality  in  the  country, 
but  effort  has  been  made  to  chart  those  which  are 
universal. 

The  cuts  of  meat  are  the  Boston  cuts,  but  names  by 
which  they  are  known  in  other  cities  are  given.  The 
greatest  difference  is  in  the  cutting  of  the  Boston 
rump,  called  in  New  York  the  sirloin,  and  there  cut  in 
large  slices  through  the  bone.  The  New  York  rump 
is  like  the  poorer  part  of  the  Boston  rump,  which  is 
there  called  the  face.  To  give  prices  for  meat  seems 
inadvisable. 

The  vegetable  charts  are  given  with  a  range  of  prices 
at  the  beginning  and  height  of  a  normal  season.  Prices 
for  hothouse-grown  or  out-of-season  vegetables  are 
also  indicated,  that  the  housekeeper  may  be  able  to 
judge  whether  it  is  best  to  purchase  or  wait  for  the 
home  market. 

The  points  of  choice  and  the  care  in  the  house  need 
no  explanation,  but  a  word  should  be  said  in  regard  to 
the  amount  to  purchase.  Abnormal  appetites,  families 
with  large  capacities  for  any  one  food,  have  not  been 
considered.  The  aim  has  been  to  give  average  amounts 
which  would  satisfy  the  normal  family.  Experience 
will  soon  show  whether  the  amount  is  right  for  indi- 
viduals to  serve  or  to  purchase. 


10     MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

GENERAL  RULES  FOR  THE  SELECTION  OF  MEAT 

Read  Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  391,  "Economical  Use  of 
Meat  in  the  Home." 

Study  charts. 

Study  cuts  of  meat  in  the  markets. 

Learn  the  names  your  dealer  uses. 

Go  through  a  market  picking  out  all  the  pieces  of  one 
particular  cut;  when  sure  of  that,  learn  another  in  the 
same  way. 

When  buying,  ask  the  clerk  to  show  you  all  of  the 
cuts  possible  for  the  use  you  have  in  mind;  then 
choose  the  one  which  seems  best  suited  to  your  pur- 
pose and  purse. 

Try  different  cuts  until  you  have  learned  which  gives 
you  the  most  satisfaction.  Consider  real  and  ap- 
parent cost,  waste,  flavor,  and  size  of  cut.  Having 
decided  which  cuts  you  prefer  for  each  purpose,  order 
by  name  and  see  the  meat  cut  and  weighed  if  pos- 
sible. Have  the  trimmings  sent  home  for  use. 

The  cuts  of  meat  which  have  thin  connective  tissue 
holding  the  fibers  are  the  tender  cuts;  heavy  con- 
nective tissue  makes  tough  meat. 

When  there  are  flecks  of  fat  all  through  the  fibers  of 
meat,  it  is  more  tender  and  has  more  flavor  than 
meat  without  fat. 

When  meat  has  hung  for  some  tune  after  slaughter, 
it  is  more  tender  than  if  eaten  at  once. 

Meat  of  any  kind  should  have  a  fresh  odor. 

Experience  will  teach  one  the  odor  of  stale  meat. 

Select  meat  which  has  no  dark,  dry  edges  or  spots. 

Remember  that  tough  cuts  may  be  cooked  slowly  and 
become  tender. 

Learn  which  cuts  have  the  least  waste  and  know 
whether  you  are  paying  for  waste  or  edible  meat. 


MARKETING  CHARTS  11 

If  bone  and  fat  are  worth  only  seven  cents  a  pound, 
don't  pay  38  cents  for  them  unless  you  can  afford 
to  do  so;  and  if  you  do  pay  it,  realize  that  you  are 
purchasing  for  flavor  and  tenderness  rather  than  food 
value. 


12    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


Beef 

Points  of  Choice: 

Firm,  fine-grain  muscle. 
Bright  red  color  when  exposed  to  the  air. 
The  tender  cuts  well  mottled  with  fat. 
Moist,  juicy  surface  when  exposed  to  the  ah1. 
Edge  fat,  firm,  thick,  and  straw  colored. 
Suet  dry,  crumbly,  and  white. 

Poor  beef  has  coarse,  flabby  meat,  dark  color,  with 
dark  oily  fat. 


Cut  known  as  First  Cut  of  Prime  Ribs, 
English  Roast,   Two  Rib  Cut. 


Cut  known  as  Tip  of  Sirloin,   Short  Steak, 

Club  Steak,   Delmonico  Steak,  Second   Cut 

of  Sirloin. 


MARKETING  CHARTS 


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MARKETING  CHARTS 


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18    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


Lamb  and  Mutton 

Points  of  Choice: 
Deep  pink  flesh. 
Firm,  fine-grain  fibers. 
Kidney  fat  hard  and  white. 
Edge  fat  thin,  with  faint  pink  tinge. 
The  outside  skin  should  tear  off. 
The  flavor  of  mutton  is  less  strong  if  the  skin  and 

excess  fat  are  removed. 
Never  cook  the  caul  in  which  a  leg  of  mutton  is 

wrapped. 
Mutton  is  more  mature,  contains  more  nourishment, 

is  more  easily  digested,  and  has  less  delicate  flavor 

than  lamb. 

Lamb  bones  are  slightly  streaked  with  red. 
The  leg  joint  of  lamb  is  serrated. 
The  leg  joint  of  mutton  is  smooth  and  round. 


Leg  of  Lamb  or  Mutton.     (Reproduced  on  a  much 
smaller  scale  than  other  illustrations). 


Cut  known  as  Rib  Chop.     (This 
may  be  Frenched) . 


MARKETING  CHARTS 

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Cut    known    as    Loin    Chop,     Kidney 

Chop,  and  English  Chop  (when  boned 

and  rolled) . 


Cut  known  as  Fore  Quarter,  Breast  and 
Back  of  Lamb   or   Mutton. 


MARKETING  CHARTS  21 


Veal 

Points  of  Choice: 
Faint  pink  flesh. 
Little  or  no  edge  fat. 
Other  fat  pinkish  in  tint. 
Milk-fed  veal  best. 

Veal  should  at  be  least  four  weeks  old  before  slaughter. 
"Bob"  veal  (too  young)  is  soft,  has  poor  flavor,  and 

has  been  considered  dangerous  food.    Its  sale  is 

prohibited  by  law  in  many  States. 


22     MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


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Bone  —  little  m( 

Very  gelatinous 
Little  meat 

Gelatinous 
Inexpensive 

Easily  digested 
Delicacy 
Expensive 

Tender 
Good  flavor 
Expensive  exce 
spring 
Spoils  quickly 

, 

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24    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


Pork 

Points  of  Choice: 

Firm,  white  flesh,  with  faint,  pink  tinge. 
Firm,  clear,  white  fat. 

Diseased  pork  has  a  dull   appearance,  with  small 
yellowish  lumps  through  the  meat  and  fat. 


MARKETING  CHARTS 


25 


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bone 
Inexpe 
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26    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


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MARKETING  CHARTS  27 


General  Rules  ior  Purchase  of  Poultry 

The  housewife  should  demand  preparation  of  poultry 
before  killing: 

1.  Fattening  by  special  feeding. 

2.  Starving  just  before  killing  to  empty  the  crop. 

3.  Dry-picked,    giving    a    smooth    skin.     Scalding 

brings  out  dry  patches  which  injure  the  appear- 
ance. 

4.  Well  bled. 

5.  Cooled  quickly. 

6.  Not  drawn;  poultry  keeps  better,  and  if  drawn 

in  the  home,  disease  of  the  liver  and  intestines 
may  be  detected. 

7.  Head  left  on:  choose  a  red  comb,  clear  eyes,  no 

sores. 

8.  Feet  left  on:  chickens  have  soft  spurs;  roosters 

have  hard  spurs. 

Choose: 

Round  full  breast,  streaks  of  fat  under  skin  of  breast. 

White  skin  (milk-fed),  short  legs,  soft  yellow  feet. 
A  void: 

Thick  layers  of  fat  near  the  vent. 

Full  crop. 

Blue  meat. 


28    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


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MARKETING  CHARTS 


29 


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30    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


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MARKETING  CHARTS 


31 


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purplish 


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32    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Fish 

General  Rules  for  Purchase: 

1.  Plan  to  use  fish  often.    Buy  from  a  trustworthy 

dealer. 

2.  The  demand  for  fish  on  Friday  has  made  a  very 

uneven  demand  on  the  supply  and  kept  the 
price  of  fish  high.  Buy  on  other  days  than 
Friday  and  help  make  a  more  even  market, 
thus  reducing  the  cost. 

3.  Buy  in  season.     Cold  storage  fish  often  lacks 

flavor,  spoils  quickly,  and  is  higher  in  price 
than  fish  which  is  in  season. 

4.  See  the  head. 

If  the  gills  are  gone,  apply  all  other  tests. 

If  the  eyes  are  gone,  doubt  it. 

If  the  flesh  is  soft  and  the  skin  slimy,  scorn  it. 

5.  Have  the  heads  of  cod  or  haddock  sent  home  for 

chowder  or  soup. 

6.  Buy  a  large  fish  and  use  the  left  overs,  rather  than 

a  small  fish  for  one  meal.  There  is  less  waste 
in  proportion  to  the  amount  of  edible  meat. 

7.  Do  not  plan  to  keep  fish  uncooked  for  a  very  long 

time. 

Points  of  Choice: 
Smooth,  moist  skin. 
Firm  flesh.  y 

Fresh  odor. 
Full,  bright  eyes. 
Red  gills. 
Fins  and  tail  firm. 
A  slice  of  fish  should  hold  its  shape  and  be  well 

attached  to  the  bone. 
Lobsters,  clams,  oysters,  crabs,  and  terrapin  should 

be  alive  in  the  shell. 


MARKETING  CHARTS 


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33 


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34    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


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35 


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36    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


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MARKETING  CHARTS 


37 


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38    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


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40    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


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MARKETING  CHARTS 


41 


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42    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


Fruit 

General  Rules  for  Purchase: 

Do  not  buy  too  many  kinds  at  once.    Variety  is 

less  important  than  in  the  use  of  vegetables. 
Buy  fruit  in  season.     Seasons  are  short  for  some 

fruits,  and  they  may   be  used  more  frequently 

while  they  are  in  market. 
Choose  fruit  which  is  not  bruised. 
A  break  in  the  skin  means  quick  decay. 
Oranges,  lemons,  and  grapefruit  should  feel  heavy 

in  the  hand  and  have  thin  skins. 
Try  comparing  the  juice  content  of  a  thin-skinned 

heavy-feeling  lemon  and  a   thick-skinned   lemon 

of  the  same  size. 

Few  fruits  may  be  stored  at  home. 
Small  fruits,  cultivated  or  wild,  should  be  spread,  or 

their  own  weight  will  crush  them  and  break  the 

skins. 

Buy  small  fruits  only  for  immediate  use. 
Can  or  preserve  all  not  used  for  the  table. 


MARKETING  CHARTS 


43 


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44    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


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MARKETING  CHARTS 


46    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


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48    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


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MARKETING  CHARTS  49 

Vegetables 

General  Rules  for  Purchase: 

1.  Buy  where  you  can  obtain  the  best  quality, — 

market,  producer,  or  cart. 

2.  Plan  for  variety  from  day  to  day,  not  at  each 

meal. 

3.  Demand  good  measure  or  weight  at  a  reason- 

able price. 

4.  Know  the  seasons  and  buy  in  season.     They  are 

fresher,  better  flavor,  cheaper. 

5.  Know  the  ways  of  cooking  and  serving,  the  food 

value,  the  qualities  for  choice. 

6.  Do  not  buy  poor  quality.    The  waste  amounts 

to  more  than  the  saving  in  first  cost. 

7.  Choose  firm,  crisp,  ripe,   tender  vegetables  of 

normal  size  and  shape. 

8.  Avoid  wilted,  specked,  frozen,  decaying,  over- 

ripe, or  green  vegetables.  Abnormal  size  is 
apt  to  mean  hard,  woody  fiber  and  poor 
flavor. 

9.  The    amount    to    buy    depends    on    available 

storage,  suitability  for  storage,  the  number 
in  the  family,  their  fondness  for  vegetables. 

10.  Summer  vegetables  lose  quality  rapidly  and  can 

seldom  be  stored.     Should  be  cooked  as  soon 
as  possible  after  harvesting.     (See  Farmers' 
,,•  Bulletin  No.  256.) 

11.  Winter  vegetables,  if  ripe  when  harvested,  may 

be  stored  in  a  dry,  cool  place  and  covered  with 
sand.  They  should  be  purchased  early,  in 
bulk,  direct  from  the  field.  Storage  and  winter 
loss  cost. 

12.  The  prices  of  vegetables  are  regulated  by  the 

season  and  the  supply  or  demand. 


50   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

13.  Prices  do  not  represent  their  food  value. 

14.  A  decided  drop  in  price  usually  indicates  poor 

quality  or  oversupply. 

15.  Out-of-season  vegetables  are  expensive  because 

of  cost  of  transportation,  and  they  usually 
lack  the  flavor  of  native  vegetables. 

16.  Hothouse  vegetables  are  high  because  of  the 

cost  of  hothouse  care. 


MARKETING  CHARTS 


51 


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£ 


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52   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


..  a 
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Protein 
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Select  tender 
shoots  with  not 
too  long,  tough 


Select  fresh  pod 
with  full  round 
beans.  Pods 
without  mil- 
dew 


MARKETING  CHARTS 


53 


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54    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


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56    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


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3    kiH 

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Oyster  Plant 
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Root 
Fall  and  winter 


58    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


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MARKETING  CHARTS 


59 


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62    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

General  Rules  for  Purchase  of  Groceries 

1.  Buy  standard  goods. 

2.  Buy  goods  branded  by  packer: 

(a)    Easier  to  indentify  grades. 

(6)     You  get  a  standard  quality,   usually  at  a 

standard  price, 
(c)   The   packers    stand    behind    their    branded 

goods. 

3.  Package  goods  are  cleaner,  but  usually  much  more 

expensive  than  bulk. 

4.  A  price  above  the  average  usually  means  extra 

quality  or  special  features. 

5.  Decrease  in  price  from  the  average  usually  means 

old    stock,    overstock,    or    poor    manufacturing 
conditions. 

Adulterations  and  Preservatives 

The  Pure  Food  Law  does  not  prevent  the  manufacture 

or  sale  of  impure  foods. 

It  does  make  it  possible  to  tell  pure  from  impure  foods. 
It  requires  that  the  ingredients  be  printed  on  the 

label. 
Adulterants  may  be  added  to  any  food,  provided: 

1.  The  product  is  labeled  properly. 

2.  The  adulterant  is  not  harmful. 

The  public  must  prove  the  adulterant  to  be  harmful 
or  the  law  cannot  prohibit  its  use. 

The  Federal  Law  applies  only  to  goods  sold  from  state 
to  state. 

Goods  sold  within  the  state  where  they  are  manufac- 
tured are  subject  only  to  the  laws  of  that  state. 
Study  your  state  food  laws. 

State  laws  are  often  lacking  or  insufficient.  You  must 
then  be  your  own  judge  of  purity. 


MARKETING  CHARTS  63 

Adulterated  foods  often  require  much  label  explanation 

to  make  their  sale  legal. 

These  explanations  are  frequently  blind  if  read  casually. 
The  more  explanation  required,  the  more  care  should 

be  used  by  the  housewife. 
The  name  of  the  packer  is  not  apt  to  appear  on  impure 

goods. 
There  are  four  forms  of  adulteration: 

1.  Substitution  products    )with  consequent  loss  in 

2.  Makeweights  Hood  value  and  quality. 

3.  Artificial  coloring  )  which  may  be  a  damage 

4.  Chemical  preservatives )     to  health. 

All  four  forms  may  appear  in  one  food. 

The  presence  of  any  adulterant  means  that  the  product 

is  not  first  class. 
The  question  of  danger  in  the  use  of  preservatives  is  a 

mooted  one. 
The  general  conclusion  is  that  preservatives  do  not 

add   to   the   nutritive  value;    their  use   makes  it 

possible   to  use  second   quality   materials   and    to 

cover  unclean  processes.     It  is  possible  to  get  on 

without  them. 
Read  your  labels  and  reject  those  products  which  do 

not  reach  your  standard. 

Purchasing  in  Quantity 

When  you  have  sufficient  storage,  it  is  possible  to  save 
a  substantial  amount  by  buying  canned  goods  in 
case  lots  or  by  the  dozen;  coffee,  dried  fruits,  etc., 
in  large  quantity;  butter  by  the  twenty-pound 
tub;  and  some  dry  groceries  by  the  large  sack  or 
barrel. 

One  should  take  care  that  she  is  not  led  away  by  the 


64    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

idea  of  saving  until  she  has  purchased  beyond  the 
consuming  power  of  her  family. 

Many  groceries  deteriorate  with  long  storing,  and  it  is 
wasteful  to  eat  simply  to  save,  or  to  store  food  which 
the  family  will  not  eat  until  the  interest  on  the  money 
has  far  exceeded  the  amount  saved. 


MARKETING  CHARTS 


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Milk 

Choose  your  milkman  carefully. 

Visit  the  dairy  if  possible;  see  conditions. 

Get  a  grading  from  the  Board  of  Health  if  possible. 

Be  willing  to  pay  for  clean  milk. 

Clean  milk  cannot  be  produced  at  a  low  price. 

Read  bulletins  on  milk  production  and  care,  issued  by 
Federal  or  State  Government,  Colleges  of  Agricul- 
ture, and  State  Boards  of  Health. 

Remember:  To  take  in  the  milk  as  soon  as  possible 
after  it  is  delivered. 

1.  Bottles  of  milk  should  not  be  left  where  ani- 

mals can  reach  them. 

2.  Milk  should  be  kept  cold. 

3.  Bottles  should  be  washed  before  going  into  the 

refrigerator.  , 

4.  Wash  the  top  of  a  bottle  before  opening. 

5.  Do  not  return  milk  from  the  table  to  the  bottle 

of  cold  milk. 

6.  Do  not  leave  milk  out  of  the  refrigerator  one 

unnecessary  minute. 
Grades  of  milk: 

Raw  or  market  milk. 
Pasteurized  milk. 
Certified  milk. 


CHAPTER  III 

MENU   MAKING 

THE  wise  housekeeper  plans  her  meals,  making  a 
business  or  a  game  of  the  work,  according  to  her  attitude 
toward  the  subject. 

Meal  planning  takes  time  whenever  it  is  done,  but 
the  success  is  far  greater,  with  the  use  of  less  time,  if 
they  are  planned  ahead. 

A  meal  which  is  planned  with  reference  to  other 
meals  is  more  interesting,  has  better  food  value  and 
more  variety,  at  less  expense,  than  one  which  is  planned 
hurriedly,  with  reference  only  to  settling  the  matter  for 
one  more  meal. 

The  worst  possible  time  to  plan  what  to  eat  is  just 
after  eating,  and  the  post-breakfast  plan  for  dinner 
often  shows  the  effect  of  a  feeling  that  "anything 
will  do." 

Plans  made  hurriedly,  too,  are  usually  for  more 
expensive  food,  as  there  is  no  time  for  the  long,  slow 
cooking  which  most  of  the  less  costly  foods  require. 

The  objection  is  frequently  made  that  plans  cannot 
be  carried  out  because  of  unexpected  guests. 

If  a  guest  comes  after  the  meals  for  the  day  are 
ordered,  the  amount  of  rearrangement  necessary  is 
the  same  whether  that  order  was  given  three  hours 
or  twenty-four  hours  before  the  time  for  service. 

A  plan  a  week  old  may  be  changed  as  easily  as  if  it 
were  new. 

It  takes  less  time  to  rearrange  a  definite  plan  than  it 
does  to  make  an  entirely  new  one. 


MENU  MAKING  81 

The  use  of  left-overs  is  another  bugbear  of  the 
housekeeper  who  thinks  that  she  cannot  plan  her 
menus. 

If  the  luncheons  or  suppers  are  arranged  with  possible 
left-overs  in  mind,  it  is  not  difficult  to  substitute  an 
entree  made  from  supplies  on  hand,  in  case  the  "  left- 
over" does  not  prove  to  be  left. 

When  absence,  or  lack  of  appetite,  on  the  part  of 
several  of  the  family  result  in  unexpected  left-overs, 
it  is  a  simple  matter  to  substitute  them  for  some  of 
the  dishes  planned  from  new  materials. 

A  few  moments  spent  in  consultation  with  the  maid, 
the  ice  box,  and  a  planned  menu  will  settle  the  question 
of  food  for  the  day.  But  real  inspiration  seldom  comes 
to  the  woman  who  waits  until  she  sees  her  ice  box  or 
her  empty  cupboard  before  planning. 

In  writing  the  menus  for  the  use  of  a  maid,  it  is  a 
great  advantage  to  begin  each  sheet  with  the  evening 
meal,1  following  with  the  breakfast  and  midday  meal 
for  the  next  day. 

The  maid  then  has  before  her  the  work  for  twenty- 
four  hours,  and  if  emergency  prevents  an  early  con- 
sultation in  the  morning,  the  cooking  for  the  mid-day 
meal  may  still  be  started.  It  also  reminds  the  house- 
keeper of  processes  which  should  begin  early  in  prepa- 
ration for  especial  dishes. 

No  attempt  is  made  here  to  offer  full  menus,  but 
either  of  these  plans  should  give  such  assistance  that 
menu  making  becomes  a  pleasure  rather  than  a  bug- 
bear. 

A  few  general  directions  will  be  of  assistance,  if  care- 
fully studied. 

1.   Consider  nutritive  value. 

Choose  food  from  each  of  the  five  groups 
1  See  menu  sheet,  Chapter  VI. 


82    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

shown  in  the  government  chart  for  at  least 
two  meals  a  day. 

2.  Consider  interest. 

Do  not  serve  a  meal  lacking  in  color,  flavor, 
or  variety. 

3.  Consider  harmony. 

Do  not  serve  clashing  colors  or  flavors. 

4.  Consider  cost. 

Do  not  serve  foods  requiring  more  money, 
time,  strength,  or  fuel  than  you  can 
afford. 


Ring  and  Card  Plan  for  Menu  Making 

The  first  plan  has  been  used  successfully  by  many 
people.  Its  great  flexibility  and  the  impossibility  of 
unconscious  repetition,  if  the  cards  are  followed,  are 
its  chief  recommendations. 

Provide  yourself  with  small  cards  £"x2|"  with 
holes  at  one  end,  with  rings  which  open  (such  as  are 
used  on  loose-leaf  notebooks),  and  some  stiff,  colored 
cardboard  to  cut  for  title  cards. 

Make  a  list  of  all  the  meat  or  fish  dishes  suitable 
for  dinner  which  you  would  be  willing  or  able 
to  serve  to  your  family.  Write  each  of  these 
on  a  separate  card. 

Arrange  these  in  an  order  which  would  probably 
be  desirable  for  serving,  planning  to  have  fish, 
poultry,  or  roasts  at  times  when  you  would  be 
most  likely  to  serve  them;  that  is,  if  your 
family  habits  and  traditions  demand  fish  on 
Friday  and  baked  beans  on  Saturday,  arrange 
the  cards  so  that  beans  follow  fish,  and  that 
the  meat  for  the  next  day  is  planned  with 
Sunday  dinner  in  mind.  Do  not  include  in 


MENU  MAKING  83 

your  list  any  dish  which  you  cannot  afford 
or  which  your  family  will  not  eat.  When 
the  cards  are  arranged,  place  them  in  order  on 
one  of  the  rings,  with  the  colored  title  card 
on  top.  Label  this  " Dinner  Meats."  This 
ring  is  the  only  one  the  order  of  which  is  es- 
pecially important.  This  arrangement  should 
not  be  changed  except  to  substitute  from  near 
the  bottom  of  the  list. 

Make  a  list  of  all  ways  of  serving  starchy  foods 
which  you  would  use  as  a  dinner  vegetable. 
Arrange  these  in  desirable  order  which  will 
give  variety,  so  that  due  value  is  given  to 
macaroni,  rice,  samp,  potatoes,  and  possibly 
dasheens  and  Jerusalem  artichokes,  without 
falling  into  a  routine  which  consists  solely  of 
baked  or  boiled  potatoes.     Arrange  these  on 
a  ring  with  a  title  card  "  Starchy  Vegetables." 
Continue  this  planning,  making  ring  lists  for 
Succulent  Vegetables,  Dinner  Soups,  Dinner 
Salads,  Dessert  Salads,  Dinner  Desserts  and 
Relishes    or     Garnishes,    Luncheon     Soups, 
Luncheon  Hearty  Dishes  and  Salads,  Lunch- 
eon   Desserts,    and   Breakfast   Dishes.     The 
rings  which  have  to  do  with  dinner  should  be 
fastened    together   on   one   larger   ring,    the 
luncheon  rings  also  put  onto  one  ring. 
Individual  needs  will  govern  the  housekeeper  in  the 
choice  of  title  cards  which  she  will  use.     The  titles 
given  above  have  been  found  useful  in  a  family  of  eight 
and  another  of  sixty,  as  well  as  a  number  of  others. 

It  is  desirable  to  make  these  lists  as  complete  as  pos- 
sible, but  not  to  include  dishes  which  you  would  not  or 
could  not  serve  to  the  particular  family  for  which 
you  are  catering. 


84    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

The  rings  for  dinner  meats  and  for  desserts  can  each 
easily  include  from  twenty-five  to  thirty-five  dishes  if 
the  effort  is  made  to  provide  all  the  variety  possible 
and  to  think  of  dishes  which  have  been  neglected  or 
which  may  have  dropped  from  use  because  they  had 
been  repeated  too  often  and  the  family  tired  of  them. 

To  use  these  rings,  keep  dinner  meats  arranged  in 
order  as  a  basis  for  the  whole.  Start  with  the  first 
card  on  the  ring.  If  it  is  a  light  meat,  or  fish,  plan  for 
a  soup  which  shall  be  suitable  to  serve  with  it.  Write 
these  on  your  menu  sheet,  and  take  up  the  vegetable 
rings.  If  the  vegetable  on  the  first  card  does  not  com- 
bine well  with  your  meat,  ignore  the  first  card  and  go  to 
the  second,  continuing  until  you  have  found  a  vegetable 
suitable  to  serve.  Having  selected  one,  remove  the 
card  from  the  ring,  and  replace  it  upon  the  bottom 
of  the  pack,  so  that  the  title  card  is  on  top,  with  the 
used  cards  so  far  down  that  they  will  not  be  used 
again  until  all  the  others  have  been  considered.  Con- 
tinue in  this  way,  using  each  ring  in  turn,  until  your 
menu  for  the  day  is  built  up,  using  only  such  com- 
binations as  are  desirable,  but  never  repeating  a  dish 
until  all  other  cards  have  been  considered. 

The  use  of  the  colored  card  is  important.  It  should 
always  be  left  on  top  of  the  next  white  card  to 
be  used. 

If  guests  or  emergency  change  your  plan,  resume  the 
ring  plan  as  soon  as  possible,  or  you  will  drift  into 
repetition.  If  you  have  cards  for  dishes  which  are 
in  season  only  for  a  short  time,  it  is  better  to  keep 
them  separate,  introducing  them  into  the  ring  plan 
only  while  they  are  in  the  market  and  desirable.  For 
instance,  asparagus,  shad,  or  pork  would  naturally 
be  used  only  during  a  definite  season. 

Do  not  use  this  method  for  working  out  menus 


MENU  MAKING  85 

unless  you  are  making  a  schedule  for  at  least  four  days. 
It  is  impossible  to  work  to  advantage  if  one  meal  or 
one  day  at  a  time  is  planned. 

Keep  in  mind  that  the  chief  objects  in  planning 
meals  should  be  to: 

Give  variety  at  the  least  cost, 

Avoid  repetition, 

Keep  food  value. 

To  get  the  same  results  without  planning  ahead 
would  take  far  more  time,  strength,  and  effort. 

Chart  Plan  for  Menu  Making 

The  second  plan  is  a  more  arbitrary  arrangement 
of  dishes  for  dinner,  with  suggestions  for  relishes  and 
garnishes  which  are  possible. 

Here,  the  different  dishes  are  numbered  and  No.  1 
carries  with  it  not  only  a  dinner  meat,  but  the  starchy 
and  succulent  vegetable  and  the  dessert. 

Soups,  salads,  etc.,  are  suggested  but  not  planned 
for  definitely,  the  intention  being  to  make  the  meals 
more  elaborate  by  the  addition  of  the  third  course 
when  this  is  desirable  for  especial  reasons. 

The  dishes  given  in  the  following  charts  have  been 
used  by  several  families;  but  it  is  expected  that  the 
housekeeper  will  substitute  the  favorite  dishes  of  her 
special  family  for  any  included  here  which  were  not 
desirable  for  their  individual  needs. 


86    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

CHART  I 

DINNER   MEATS 

1.  Chicken  or  Fowl  (roast,  fricassee,  or  steamed  and  fried) 

2.  Lamb  Stew,  or  Roast  Stuffed  Shoulder,  or  Lamb  Fricassee 

with  Shortcakes 

3.  Fish  (broiled) 

4.  Lamb  Chartreuse  with  Tomato  Sauce  or  Shepherds  Pie 

5.  Braised  Beef  (Aitch  Bone,  Bottom  Round,  or  Face  of 

Rump) 

6.  Fish  (boiled  or  baked) 

7.  Beans,  or  Ham  (baked  in  milk) 

8.  Fowl  (stew  with  dumplings,  or  boiled  with  one-half  hour 

roasting) 

9.  Roast  Beef 

10.  Broiled  Fish 

11.  Cold  Roast  Beef 

12.  Lamb  Chops 

13.  Fish,  Clam  or  Corn  Chowder 

14.  Baked  Beans  or  Hamburg  Steak 

15.  Roast  Lamb 

16.  Fresh  Pork  Shoulder  or  Veal  Loaf  (from  knuckle  of 

veal) 

17.  Cold  Roast  Lamb 

18.  Beef  Steak  or  Swiss  Steak 

19.  Liver  or  Stuffed  Heart  (braised) 

20.  Finnan  Haddie 

21.  Beans,  or  Cannelon  of  Beef 

22.  Duck  or  Roast  Chicken 

23.  Stuffed  Pork  Chops  or  Baltimore  Stew 

24.  Boiled  Fish  (with  tomato  sauce) 

25.  Shoulder  Chops  in  Casserole,  or  Nut  Loaf  with  Sauce 

26.  Roast  Ham 

27.  Baked  Fish  (stuffed)  or  New  England  Salt  Cod  Dinner 

28.  Baked  Beans  and  Cold  Ham 

29.  Boiled  Fowl 

30.  Ham  Loaf 


MENU  MAKING 


87 


31.  Roast  Lamb  or  Shoulder  of  Lamb  boiled,  caper  sauce 

32.  Fish 

33.  Beef  Pot  Pie  or  Beef  Stew 

Seasonal  Meats  or  Fish  Dishes  which  may  be  substituted  while 

in  Market 


Broiled  Chicken 
Duck 

Spring  Lamb 
Turkey 
Veal 


Bluefish 
Fresh  Salmon 
Mackerel 
Shad 
Swordfish 


CHART  II 


RELISHES 

spiced  fruit 
currant  jelly 
mint  jelly 
baked  bananas 
caper  sauce 
mint  sauce 

apple  jelly 


GARNISHES 


LAMB    OR    MUTTON 


parsley 
radishes 

if  cold  (cups  of  lettuce  with 
pickles  or  chow-chow) 


LAMB    CHOPS 


parsley 

French  peas 

toast  points  and  parsley 


pickles 

curry 

capers 


LAMB    OR    MUTTON    FRICASSEE 

shortcakes 


horse  radish  (if  cold) 
mushrooms 
fried  bananas 
Yorkshire  pudding 
apple  jelly 


ROAST    BEEF 

parsley 

if  cold   (lettuce  cups  with 
horse  radish) 


88    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

STEAK 

Bearnaise  sauce  parsley  sprigs 

maitre  d'hotel  butter  parsley  chopped 

mushroom  sauce  mashed  potato  roses 
onions 

BOILED    BEEF 

dumplings  carrots 

currant  jelly 

POT  BOAST  OB  BBAISED  BEEF 

pickles  parsley 

pickled  beets 

CHICKEN 

cranberry  sauce  celery 

cranberry  jelly  or  ice  parsley 

celery  or  mushroom  sauce        rice 
oyster  sauce 
giblet  gravy 

TUBKEY 

cranberry  jelly  celery 

cranberry  sauce 

cranberry  ice  parsley 

celery 

sage  stuffing  (if    cold)    the    stuffing    in 

chestnut  stuffing  slices    with    parsley    or 

oyster  stuffing  heart  lettuce 

sausage  stuffing 

DUCK 

currant  jelly  fine  green  salad,  as 

water  cress 
chicory 
parsley 


MENU  MAKING 


89 


PORK 


apple  sauce 
cider  apple  jelly 
Soubise  sauce 
fried  apples 
currant  or  grape  jelly 


parsley 

celery  tips 

(if  cold)   water  cress, 

radishes 


FISH 


chow  chow 
chutney 
piccalilli 
lemon  slices 


parsley  with  (lemon  points 

(toast  points 
chopped  parsley 
water  cress 
egg  slices 


CHART  III 
STARCHY  VEGETABLES    SUCCULENT  VEGETABLES 


1 .  Rice 

2.  Potatoes  Boiled 

(in  stew)  or  Roasted 

3.  Boiled  Potatoes 

4.  Rice   (with  Chartreuse) 

5.  Potatoes    cooked    with 

the  Meat 

6.  Buttered  Potatoes 

7.  Spaghetti     with     Ham 

(none  if  Beans  are 
served) 

8.  Boiled  Potatoes 

Radishes 

9.  Roast      Potatoes      and 

Yorkshire  Pudding 

10.  Savory  Rice 

11.  French    Fried   Potatoes 

12.  Mashed  Potatoes 


1.  Squash 

2.  Parsnips    or 

in  Season 

3.  Tomato  Scallop 

4.  Cold  Slaw 

5.  Carrots 


Cauliflower 


or 


6.  Tomato   Jelly   Salad 

Stuffed  Peppers 

7.  Dressed    Lettuce     (with 

Beans) 

Corn  Fritters  (with  Ham) 
•8.   Scalloped  Onions 

9.   Spinach  Creamed 

10.  Lima  Beans,  dried 

11.  Buttered  Cubes  of  Tur- 

nip or  Creamed  Turnip 

12.  Brussels  Sprouts 


90    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK   MANUAL 


13.  Potatoes  in  the  Chowder    13.  Salad  of 


14. 


15. 
16. 
17. 

18. 
19. 
20. 

21. 

22. 
23. 

24. 
25. 

26. 
27. 


28. 


29. 
30. 
31. 
32. 

33. 


Macaroni         (creamed) 

with  Steak 

(none  with  Beans) 
Roast  Potatoes 
Turkish  Pilaff 
Mashed     Turnip     and 

Potato 

Duchess  Potatoes 
Boiled  Potatoes 
Baked  Potatoes 


Carrots,     Potatoes 

Casserole) 
Potatoes  Scalloped 
Boiled     and  Buttered 

Potatoes    with     the 

Stuffed  Fish 
Potato  Croquettes  with 

Ham      (none      with 

Beans) 
Rice 
Samp 

Roast  Potatoes 
Mashed  Potato 


14. 


15. 
16. 
17. 

18. 
19. 
20. 

21. 


Rice  with  Beef  (none  with 

Beans) 

Riced  Potatoes,   Celery    22 
Duchess     Potatoes     on    23 

Chops 
Boiled  Potatoes  24, 


Celery  or 
Green  Peppers 
with     Lettuce 
I  and     French 
[  Dressing 

String  Beans  (with  Steak) 
Dressed      Lettuce     and 
Chili  Sauce  (with  Beans) 
Squash 
Onions 
Fried  Parsnips 

Chopped    Celery    Salad 

Radishes 

Scalloped       Corn     with 

Pimento 
Lettuce  and  Water  Cress 

Creamed  Cabbage 
Peas 


Fried  Green  Peppers,  or 
Asparagus  (in   season) 
(in     25.   Lettuce      and      French 
Dressing 

26.  Onions  (stuffed) 

27.  Lettuce  and  Pickled  Beets 

with  the  Stuffed  Fish 


28.   Kale  or  Spinach 


29. 
30. 
31. 
32. 


Browned  (with  Cheese) 
Baked  Potatoes  33. 


String  Beans 
Beets 
Peas 
Cucumber 

Peas  and  Carrots 


MENU  MAKING  91 

When  vegetables  are  out  of  season,  use  canned  vegetables 
or  substitutes,  but  avoid  too  frequent  repetition. 

Rice,  spaghetti,  or  samp  may  be  substituted  for  potatoes 
far  more  frequently  than  this  chart  indicates. 

During  times  of  shortage  of  potatoes  one  of  these  sub- 
stitutes should  be  served  at  least  every  other  day  for  dinner 
and  on  alternate  days  for  luncheon. 

CHART  IV 

DESSERTS 

1.  Fruit  Ice 

2.  Cut  Fruit  (apples,  dates  and  oranges) 

3.  Apple  Dumpling  (baked),  Hard  Sauce 

4.  Chocolate  Blanc  Mange,  White  of  Egg  Garnish  (in  glass 

cups) 

5.  Vanilla  Ice  Cream,  Maple  Sauce 

6.  Cottage  Pudding,  Coffee  Sauce 

7.  Baked  Apples 

8.  Spanish  Cream 

9.  Apple  Tapioca,  with  Cream 

10.  Orange  Pudding 

11.  Steamed  Fruit  Pudding,  Hard  Sauce 

12.  Apricot  Ice,  with  Nuts  and  Whipped  Cream  Garnish 

13.  Apple  Dowdy  with  Cheese 

14.  Orange  Jelly 

15.  Mint  Ice  (with  Thin  Chocolate  Sauce),  or  Lemon  Ice 

16.  Sliced  Oranges 

17.  Steamed  Apple  Dumpling,  Liquid  Sauce 

18.  Pineapple  Salad  with  Cream  Cheese 

19.  Caramel  Custard 

20.  Orange  filled  Cream  Pie 

21.  Pear  and  Nut  Salad,  French  Dressing 

22.  Frozen  Apple  Sauce,  with  Nuts  and  Whipped  Cream 

Garnish 

23.  Poor  Man's  Pudding  (Rice)  - 

24.  Prune  Whip,  Soft  Custard  (not  baked) 

25.  Apples,  Boiled,  Jellied,  with  Cream 


92    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

26.  Orange  Salad 

27.  Lemon  Pie 

28.  Apples  and  Oranges  (cut  up,  with  Nuts) 

29.  Ice  Cream  (Brown  Bread,  Prune  or  Coffee) 

30.  Apple  or  Apricot  Shortcake 

31.  Prune  and  Pecan  Salad 

32.  Indian  Pudding 

33.  Bananas  and  Lemon  Juice 


SIMPLE   DESSERTS 

1.  Orange  Charlotte  or  Jelly 

2.  Cottage  Pudding,  Vanilla  or  Lemon  Sauce 

3.  Baked  Apples 

4.  Chocolate  Cornstarch  Pudding 

5.  Cut  Fruit 

6.  Hot  Gingerbread  and  Cream  Cheese 

7.  Grape  Fruit 

8.  Prune  Whip  (baked) 

9.  Junket  (Chocolate) 

10.  Peach  Tapioca 

11.  Apple  Pie 

12.  Old-fashioned  Rice  Pudding 

13.  Prune  Loaf 

14.  Cut  Fruit  (Oranges  and  Apples) 

15.  Sliced  Pineapple 

16.  Prune  Jelly 

17.  Steamed  Apple  Dumplings 

18.  Boiled  Rice  with  Raisins  and  Cream 

19.  Washington  Pie,  (with  Apple  Sauce  Filling) 

20.  Canned  Peaches  on  Golden  Flakes 

21.  Apples  Boiled  in  Brown-sugar  Sirup 

22.  Lemon  Milk  Sherbet 

23.  Raspberry  Dumplings 

24.  Chocolate  Bread  Pudding 

25.  Water  Sponge  Cake  and  Stewed  Prunes 

26.  Coffee  Jelly 

27.  Steamed  Cranberry  Pudding 


MENU  MAKING  93 

28.  Pineapple  and  Cream  Cheese 

29.  Apple  Whip  with  Soft  Custard 

30.  Apple  and  Celery  Salad  i 

31.  Cream  Cheese,  Jelly  and  Crackers 

32.  Tapioca  Cream 

33.  Assorted  Fruit 

Suggestions  for  the  Use  of  Soups  with  the  Charts 

After  chicken  or  fowl  there  will  be  chicken  soup 
stock;  serve  it  the  second  day  following. 

Bones  and  flank  of  lamb  can  be  used  for  stock;  serve 
with  cold  meat. 

If  there  is  more  stock,  use  for  soup  before  finnan 
haddie. 

Tomato  bisque  may  be  served  before  fish. 

If  there  is  celery  or  other  vegetable  stock,  it  should 
be  used  at  luncheons. 

Cream  soups  should  be  served  at  luncheon  rather 
than  for  dinner. 

Suggested  Use  of  Left-overs 

Vegetables: 

In  combinations  for  luncheon  salads,  as  garnish  or 
filling  for  omelettes,  scalloped. 

Meats: 

Garnish  or  filling  for  omelettes,  small  cakes,  or  meat 
loaf,  chopped  on  toast,  shepherd's  pie,  scalloped, 
hash,  small  pieces  added  to  soups,  croquettes 
with  rice  or  potato,  moist  hash  with  potato  and 
gravy. 

Fish: 

Fresh  fish  balls,  creamed  in  a  potato  border,  cro- 
quettes. 


94    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Soft-cooked  Eggs: 

Hard  cooked  and  used  for  sandwich  fillings,  garnish 

for  spinach,  salads,  cream  toast,  soup. 
Cut  Fruit  or  Canned  Fruit: 

In  jelly  desserts  or  fruit  salads. 
Cold  Custard  Puddings: 

Cut  in  squares,  and  served  in  cups  with  white  of  egg 
or  whipped  cream  for  garnish. 

Suggested  Breakfast  Dishes 

Creamed  Dried  Beef 

Fried  Cereal  with  Sirup 

Scrambled  Eggs,  with  Bacon  or  Dried  Beef  Garnish 

French  Toast 

Chopped  Meat  on  Toast 

Cream  Toast,  with  Dried  Beef  or  Egg  Garnish 

Creamed  Codfish 

Codfish  Balls 

Broiled,  Baked,  or  Creamed  Smoked  Halibut 

Bacon  and  Creamed  Potatoes 

Soft-cooked  Eggs 

Sausages 

Omelette 

Ham  and  Egg  Cakes 

Fish  Hash  or  Meat  Hash 

Meat  and  Potato  Cakes 

Codfish  Hash 

Corn  Fritters 

Griddle  Cakes  or  Waffles 

Broiled  Kidneys 

Baked  or  Broiled  Fresh  Tomatoes 

Kippered  Herring 

Suggested  Luncheon  Dishes 

Vegetable  Salads 
Spaghetti  and  Cheese 


MENU  MAKING  95 

Macaroni  in  Gravy 

Fish  Salad  (Spanish  Dressing) 

Potato  Salad  with  Egg  or  Sardine  Garnish 

Cheese  Rusk 

Salmon  Scallop 

Spinach  and  Cream  Cheese  Salad 

Potato  Chowder 

Sausage  and  Baked  Apples 

Croquettes 

Scalloped  Cheese 

Corn  Chowder 

Scalloped  Oysters 

Broiled  Ham 

Scalloped  Eggs 

Egg  Toast 

Meat  Roll 

Shepherds  Pie 

Dropped  Eggs  on  Toast  with  Cream  Sauce 

Dropped  Eggs  on  Toast  with  Tomato  Sauce 

Eggs  Scrambled  in  Tomato 

Tomato  Cream  Toast 

Eggs  Dropped  in  Spinach  (Creamed)  Nests  on  Toast  and 

Baked 

Fish  Scalloped,  in  Mashed  Potato  Wall 
Fish  Timbales,  with  Cream  Sauce 
Scalloped  Fish 

Creamed  Codfish  and  Baked  Potatoes 
Bean  Loaf,  Tomato  Sauce 
Meat  Hash,  with  Bread  Crumbs  or  Potatoes 
Baked  Eggs 

Chopped  Meat  on  Toast 
Tripe  in  Batter 
Creamed  Mushrooms 
Spanish  Hash 

Omelette  with  Cream  Sauce 
Omelette  with  Tomato  Sauce 
Dropped  Eggs  with  Hollandaise  Sauce 
Liver  and  Bacon 


96    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Royal  Scallop 
Stuffecf  Peppers 

Suggested  Luncheon  Desserts 

Vanilla  Cornstarch  Mold  with  Fruit 

Indian  Pudding 

Spanish  Cream 

Graham  Pudding  (Steamed) 

Steamed  Chocolate  Pudding 

Apple  Slump 

Blueberry  Dumpling 

Stewed  Figs 

Tapioca  Cream 

Caramel  Tapioca  (Cream) 

Pineapple  Tapioca  (Cold) 

Chocolate  Cream  Pie 

Cream  Pie  (in  Baked  Crust) 

French  Toast  with  Sirup  or  Sauce 

Griddle  Cakes  with  Sirup 

Rice  Custard  (Baked) 

Tapioca  Custard  (Baked) 

Baked  Cocoanut  Custard 

Baked  Caramel  Custard 

Cut  Fruit 

Apple  Whip 

Floating  Island 

Orange  Souffle 

Fairy  Toast 

Golden  Flakes 

Waffles  with  Sirup 

Mince  Pie 

Prune  Pie 

Blueberry  Pie 

Cookies  and  Apple  Sauce 

Brambles 


CHAPTER  IV 

MENU  AND   ORDER   SHEETS 

THE  menu  and  order  sheets  show  a  convenient 
method  of  ruling  a  book  or  loose  sheets  so  that  the 
housekeeper  may  write  her  menu,  make  a  note  of  the 
number  she  expects  to  serve  and  a  list  of  the  various 
foodstuffs  which  must  be  on  hand  in  order  to  prepare 
those  meals.  The  cost  columns  she  may  fill  in  when 
ordering,  or  later  on  from  the  slips,  and  she  will  then 
know  the  extent  of  her  grocery  and  provision  bill  for 
the  day.  Should  this  not  seem  important  to  her,  the 
cost  jotted  down  at  the  tune  of  purchase  will  make  it 
possible  for  her  to  check  her  bills  or  to  keep  in  mind 
the  change  in  cost  for  the  season  or  year. 

The  second  order  column,  headed  Emergency 
Articles,  should  be  used  only  when  the  order  for 
staple  articles  has  proved  not  to  have  been  complete 
or  when  change  of  plans  makes  an  additional  order 
necessary. 

The  weekly  order  sheet  should  have  the  list  of  staple 
articles  which  can  be  supplied  and  kept  from  one  time 
of  serving  to  another. 

To  some  people  the  use  of  such  menu  and  order  sheets 
will  seem  a  burden.  They  need  not  use  them. 

Experience  has  proved  that  people  who  do  use  such 
a  plan  get  better  service  from  their  market  men,  more 
intelligent  service  from  their  maids  —  and,  if  doing 
their  own  cooking,  less  often  find  themselves  out  of 
necessary  supplies. 

The  man  who  tried  to  run  his  factory  without  order 


98    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

and  requisition  blanks,  without  planning  to  meet  the 
needs  for  raw  material,  except  by  chance  and  memory, 
fails  to  be  a  successful  manufacturer.  Women  should 
not  expect  to  make  the  success  of  their  business  in 
life  a  matter  of  chance  and  memory  alone.  They 
should  not  be  afraid  to  adopt  business  methods  to  plan 
then"  day's  work,  to  keep  records,  and  to  provide  an 
adequate  system  of  supply  and  accounting.  House- 
keeping is  a  business;  many  women  treat  it  like  an  avo- 
cation to  be  dropped  at  the  call  of  pleasure. 


MENU  MAKING 


GUIDE  FOR  KITCHEN  ACCOUNTS 

WEEKLY  ORDER  SHEETS 
STAPLE  ARTICLES  DATE 


ARTICLE-AMOUNT-DESCRIPTION 

COST 

AKTICLE-AMOUNT-DESCRIPTION 

COST 

• 

Totals 

Totals 

DATE 


MENUS 


ORDER  LIST 


NUMBER 
SERVED 

PERISHABLE 
ARTICLES 

COST 

EMERGENCY 
ARTICLES 

COST 

DINNER 

Family 

Meat 

Groceries 

Guests 

Fish 

Maids 

Eggs 

Butter 
Milk 

Canned  Goods 

BREAKFAST 

Family 
Guests 

Maids 

Cream 
Fruit 

LUNCHEON 

Family 

Guests 
Maids 

— 

Vegetables 

Miscellaneous 



EXTRA 

Total 

Total 

Total 

CHAPTER  V 

HOW  TO   SELECT   FOODS  — I.   WHAT   THE   BODY 
NEEDS i 

What  the  Day's  Food  should  Provide 

(A)  Mineral  substances  of  great  variety  (lime  salts, 
compounds  of  phosphorus,  iron,  and  others).  —  These 
are  used  by  the  body  for  building  material  and  are 
found  in  all  parts  of  it.     They  also  produce  substances 
within  the  body  tissues  which  tend  to  offset  acid  sub- 
stances produced  in  the  tissues  in  the  course  of  diges- 
tion of  meats  and  cereals  and  serve  many  other  impor- 
tant uses.    Without  fruits  and  vegetables  the  meals 
would  be  likely  to  lack  certain  mineral  substances. 
Without  milk  they  would  be  lacking  in  a  mineral  sub- 
stance specially  needed  by  children;  that  is,  lime. 

(B)  Protein.  —  Protein  serves  as  fuel  for  the  body 
and  also  provides  a  certain  important  element,  nitrogen, 
which  is  needed  in  the  case  of  children  for  growth  and 
in  the  case  of  both  children  and  grown  people  to  keep 
the  body  in  repair.     Without  the  meat  or  meat  substi- 
tutes (including  milk),  the  meals  would  be  lacking  in 
this  body-building  material. 

(C)  Starch.  —  This  is  one  of  the  chief  fuels  of  the 
body  and  is  supplied  mainly  by  the  cereal  foods. 

(D)  Sugar.  —  This  serves  as  fuel  for  the  body  and 
to  flavor  the  food.     It  is  found  in  milk,  fresh  fruits, 
and  many  other  materials,  but  unless  small  amounts 
of  very  sweet  materials  —  sugar  itself,  sirup,  or  honey 
are  used,  the  diet  is  likely  to  be  lacking  in  it. 

(E)  Fat.  —  This  serves  as  body  fuel  and  also  im- 

1  Extract  from  Farmers'  Bulletin,  No.  808. 


HOW  TO  SELECT  FOODS 

proves  the  flavor  and  texture  of  the  food.  It  is  present 
in  meats,  nuts,  and  many  other  foods,  but  unless  small 
amounts  of  specially  fat  materials,  like  butter,  oil,  or 
cream,  are  used,  the  meals  are  likely  to  be  lacking  in 
it.  Moreover,  dishes  cooked  without  a  certain  amount 
of  fat  and  meals  served  without  butter  or  some  sub- 
stitute seem,  to  most  persons,  dry  and  unpalatable. 

(F)  Cellulose.  —  This  is  the  material  which  makes 
up  the  framework  of  plants.     It  gives  bulk  to  the 
diet  and  may  tend  to  prevent  constipation.     Without 
the  fruits  and  vegetables  the  meals  would  be  lacking 
in  this  important  element. 

(G)  Certain  newly  discovered  substances  in  very  small 
amounts,  which  are  believed  to  play  an  important  part 
in  keeping  people  well  and  in  promoting  the  growth 
of  children.     Without  milk  in  the  diet  some  of  these 
substances,  particularly  those  necessary  for  children, 
would  be  lacking,  and  without  meat,  milk,  eggs,  fruits, 
and  vegetables,  others  needed  by  persons  of  all  ages 
might  not  be  present  in  sufficient  amounts. 

(H)  Flavorings,  and  condiments.  —  In  most  families 
some  materials  are  used  in  preparing  or  serving  food 
which  add  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  meals  without 
furnishing  the  body  any  nourishment.  Among  these 
are  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  lemon  juice,  spices,  seasoning 
herbs,  horse-radish,  flavoring  extracts,  and  many  other 
materials  often  spoken  of  as  "  condiments."  These  are 
not  discussed  at  length,  because  they  are  not  absolutely 
needed  by  the  body.  They  may,  however,  be  very 
useful  hi  making  an  otherwise  unattractive  diet  taste 
good.  In  fact,  the  secret  of  making  inexpensive  meals 
attractive  lies  largely  in  the  skillful  use  of  seasoning 
and  flavors,  and  in  this  way  they  may  well  be  worth 
the  cost  they  add  to  the  diet,  even  if  they  do  not  in- 
crease its  actual  food  value. 


MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Any  kind  of  food  contains  one  or  more  of  the  sub- 
stances just  described,  and  they  are  combined  in  as 
many  different  ways  as  there  are  kinds  of  food.  A 
satisfactory  diet  contains  all  of  them,  and  each  in  its 
proper  proportion,  and  the  problem  of  planning  meals 
is  really  that  of  choosing  foods  which  will  do  this. 

Grouping  Foods  to  Show  their  Uses 

Perhaps  as  easy  a  way  as  any  to  select  the  right  foods 
is  to  group  the  different  kinds  according  to  their  uses  in 
the  body  and  then  to  make  sure  that  all  the  groups 
are  represented  regularly  in  the  meals.  Fortunately  no 
more  than  five  groups  need  be  considered:  (1)  fruits 
and  vegetables;  (2)  meats  and  other  protein-rich 
foods;  (3)  cereals  and  other  starchy  foods;  (4)  sweets; 
and  (5)  fatty  foods.  The  materials  under  each  of 
these  heads  have  their  special  uses.  It  will  be  helpful, 
therefore,  for  the  housekeeper  to  form  the  habit  of 
thinking  of  the  many  different  kinds  of  food  which  she 
handles  as  grouped  in  some  such  way  as  the  following: 

Group  1.  —  Fruits  and  vegetables,  such  as  apples, 
bananas,  berries,  citrus  fruits,  spinach  and  other 
greens,  turnips,  tomatoes,  melons,  cabbage,  green 
beans,  green  peas,  green  corn,  and  many  other  vege- 
tables and  fruits.  Without  these  the  food  would  be 
lacking  in  mineral  substances  needed  for  building  the 
body,  and  keeping  it  in  good  working  condition;  in 
acids,  which  give  flavor,  prevent  constipation,  and  serve 
other  useful  purposes;  and  in  minute  quantities  of 
other  substances  needed  for  health.  By  giving  bulk 
to  the  diet  they  make  it  more  satisfying  to  the  appetite. 

Group  2.  —  Meat  and  meat  substitutes,  or  protein- 
rich  foods:  moderately  fat  meats,  milk,  poultry,  fish, 
cheese,  eggs,  dried  legumes  (beans,  peas,  lentils,  cow- 
peas,  peanuts),  and  some  of  the  nuts.  These  are  sources 


HOW  TO  SELECT  FOODS  103 

of  an  important  body-building  material,  protein.  In 
the  case  of  children  part  of  the  protein  food  should 
always  be  whole  milk. 

Group  3.  —  Foods  rich  in  starch:  cereals  (wheat, 
rice,  rye,  barley,  oats,  and  corn)  and  potatoes  (white 
and  sweet).  Cereals  come  near  to  being  complete 
foods,  and  in  most  diets  they  supply  more  of  the 
nourishment  than  any  other  kind  of  food.  It  is  not 
safe,  however,  to  live  only  on  cereals.  The  grains  may 
be  simply  cleaned  and  partially  husked  before  cooking, 
as  in  cracked  wheat  and  Scotch  oatmeal;  they  may  be 
ground  into  flour  and  used  as  the  basis  of  breads,  cakes, 
pastry,  etc.;  they  may  be  partially  cooked  at  the  fac- 
tory, as  in  many  breakfast  preparations;  or  they 
may  be  prepared  in  the  form  of  such  pastes  as  macaroni, 
noodles,  etc.  In  all  these  forms  they  furnish  the  body 
with  the  same  general  materials,  though  in  different 
proportions. 

Group  4.  —  Sugar  (granulated,  pulverized,  brown, 
and  maple),  honey,  molasses,  sirup,  and  other  sweets. 
Unless  some  of  the  fuel  is  in  this  form,  the  diet  is  likely 
to  be  lacking  in  flavor. 

Group  5.  —  Foods  very  rich  in  fat :  bacon,  salt 
pork,  butter,  oil,  suet,  lard,  cream,  etc.  These  are  im- 
portant sources  of  body  fuel.  Without  a  little  of  them 
the  food  would  not  be  rich  enough  to  taste  good. 

Some  food  materials  really  belong  in  more  than  one 
group.  Cereals,  for  example,  supply  protein  as  well  as 
starch;  potatoes  supply  starch  as  well  as  the  mineral 
matters,  acids,  cellulose,  and  body-regulating  sub- 
stances, for  which  they  are  especially  valuable;  and 
most  meat  supplies  fat  as  well  as  protein.  For  the 
sake  of  simplicity,  however,  each  material  is  here 
grouped  according  to  the  nutrient  for  which  it  is  usually 
considered  most  valuable.  These  points  are  all  brought 


104  MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

out  in  more  detail  in  other  bulletins  which  discuss  the 
special  groups. 

The  lists  given  below  show  some  of  the  common 
food  materials  arranged  in  these  five  groups.  If  the 
housekeeper  will  consult  them  in  planning  meals 
until  she  has  learned  where  each  kind  of  food  belongs, 
she  will  have  taken  the  first  step  toward  providing  a 
diet  which  will  supply  all  the  food  needs  of  her  family. 
It  will  be  only  one  step,  to  be  sure,  but  it  should  prevent 
two  mistakes  —  that  of  serving  meals  that  have  not  suf- 
ficient variety,  and  that  of  cutting  down  in  the  wrong 
places  when  economy  either  of  time  or  money  is  needed : 

GROUP  1 .  —  Foods  depended  on  for  mineral  matters,  vegetable 
acids,  and  body-regulating  substances 

Fruits :  Vegetables : 

Apples,  pears,  etc.  Salads  —  lettuce,    celery, 

Bananas  etc. 

Berries  Potherbs  or  " greens" 

Melons  Potatoes    and   root   vege- 

Oranges,  lemons,  etc.  tables 

Etc.  Green  peas,  beans,  etc. 

Tomatoes,  squash,  etc. 
Etc. 

GROUP  2.  —  Foods  depended  on  for  protein 

Milk,  skim  milk,  cheese,  etc.  Fish 

Eggs  Dried  peas,  beans,  cowpeas, 

Meat  etc. 

Poultry  Nuts 

GROUP  3.  —  Foods  depended  on  for  starch 

Cereal  grains,  meals,  flours,  etc.  Cakes,  cookies,  starchy  pud- 
Cereal  breakfast  foods  dings,  etc. 
Bread                                           Potatoes  and  other  starchy 
Crackers  vegetables 
Macaroni  and  other  pastes 


HOW  TO  SELECT  FOODS  105 

GROUP  4.  —  Foods  depended  on  for  sugar 

Sugar  Candies 

Molasses  Fruits    preserved    in    sugar, 

Sirups  jellies,  and  dried  fruits 

Honey  Sweet  cakes  and  desserts 

GROUP  5.  —  Foods  depended  on  for  fat 

Butter  and  cream  Salt  pork  and  bacon 

Lard,  suet,  and  other  cooking     Table  and  salad  oils 
fats 

Thinking  of  foods  according  to  the  group  to  which 
they  belong  or  according  to  the  nutrient  which  they 
supply  in  largest  amount  will  help  the  housekeeper  to 
see  whether  in  the  meals  she  plans  she  has  supplied 
all  the  different  materials  needed,  especially  whether 
there  is  the  necessary,  though  small,  amount  of  tissue- 
building  mineral  matters  and  body-regulating  materials 
(group  1),  and  of  tissue-building  protein  (group  2). 
When  she  has  made  sure  that  these  are  present,  she 
may  safely  build  up  the  bulk  of  the  diet  from  whatever 
materials  from  the  other  groups  that  seem  economical, 
wholesome,  and  appetizing.  By  means  of  this  group- 
ing she  will  be  reminded  that  meals  consisting  only  of 
cereal  mush  (group  3),  served  with  butter  (group  5) 
and  sirup  (group  4),  would  not  be  a  complete  ration, 
and  would  almost  surely  be  lacking  in  body-building 
material,  because  there  are  no  foods  from  either  group  1 
(fruits  and  vegetables)  or  group  2  (protein  rich).  It 
will  become  clear,  also,  that  a  school  lunch  of  a  kind 
far  too  frequently  served,  consisting  of  bread  and  cake, 
is  lacking  in  the  same  way,  and  that  a  glass  of  milk 
(group  2)  and  an  apple  or  an  orange  (group  1)  would 
make  it  far  more  nearly  complete.  She  will  learn  the 
wisdom  of  serving  fruit  (group  1)  rather  than  a  whipped- 
cream  dessert  (group  5)  or  a  suet  pudding  (groups  3 


106   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

and  5)  after  a  course  including  a  generous  portion  of 
fat  meat  (groups  2  and  5). 

The  grouping  will  also  help  the  housekeeper  who 
wishes  to  save  money  or  tune  to  simplify  her  meals 
without  making  them  one-sided  or  incomplete.  For 
example,  if  she  has  been  serving  bread,  potatoes, 
and  rice  or  hominy  in  one  meal,  she  will  see  that  one 
or  even  two  of  them  may  be  left  out  without  omitting 
any  important  nutrient,  providing  a  reasonable  quan- 
tity of  the  one  or  two  remaining  is  eaten.  It  will  show 
her  that  a  custard  which  is  made  of  milk  and  eggs, 
two  foods  from  group  2,  would  hardly  be  needed  after 
a  meal  in  which  a  liberal  supply  of  meat  had  been 
served,  provided  one  ate  heartily  of  all,  and  that  a 
child  does  not  need  milk  at  the  same  meal  with  an  egg 
or  meat.  It  will  suggest  that  baked  beans  or  other 
legumes,  or  thick  soups  made  of  legumes,  are  substitutes 
for  meat  rather  than  foods  to  be  eaten  with  meat. 

This  method  of  planning  prevents  substituting  one 
food  for  another  which  has  an  entirely  different  use. 
It  prevents  the  housekeeper,  for  example,  from  trying 
to  give  a  pleasant  variety  by  using  an  extra  amount  of 
cakes  or  sweet  desserts  in  the  place  of  fruit  and  vege- 
tables when  the  latter  seem  difficult  to  obtain.  Sugar 
is  nutritious  and  has  a  valuable  place  in  the  diet,  but 
the  nourishment  it  furnishes  is  fuel  and  not  the  body- 
building and  body-regulating  materials  which  are 
found  in  fruits  and  vegetables,  and  it  is  not  safe  to  cut 
them  out,  even  if  the  meals  can  be  made  attractive 
without  them.  Fortunately,  they  are  not  always  so 
hard  to  obtain  as  it  seems,  and  the  wise  housekeeper 
will  make  every  effort  to  supply  them.  In  general, 
economy  within  each  group  is  safer  than  using  an  in- 
expensive food  from  one  group  in  place  of  an  expensive 
one  from  another  group. 


CHAPTER  VI 

FOOD   INVENTORY 

IT  is  frequently  desirable  to  know  exactly  how  much 
is  spent  for  food  materials  for  a  given  time.  It  is  often 
important  that  a  housekeeper  should  know  what  food 
materials  are  costing,  whether  the  amount  spent  for 
meat,  groceries,  and  dairy  products  is  well  pro- 
portioned or  not.  While  it  is  not  supposed  that  every 
housekeeper  will  do  this,  it  is  quite  worth  while  to 
know  how,  and  experience  of  several  years'  use  of  this 
method  leads  me  to  believe  that  it  has  great  value, 
especially  for  the  young  housekeeper  who  does  not 
know  prices  and  who  fails  to  keep  standards  in  mind. 
Study  of  such  an  inventory  often  discloses  the  fact 
that  there  is  carelessness  in  the  use  of  some  staple 
article  or  that  there  has  been  an  unconscious  change  in 
standards  which  has  raised  the  amount  spent  for  foods 
far  above  the  usual  allowance.  If  such  an  inventory 
were  taken  only  twice  a  year,  it  would  be  far  better 
than  to  omit  it  entirely.  The  following  directions 
are  easily  followed  if  taken  in  turn. 

To  Take  a  Food  Inventory 

Provide  inventory  cards  and  a  kitchen  scratch  book. 

Inventory  cards  are  very  convenient  ruled  with  an 
inch  wide  space  at  the  left  for  the  name  of  the  article 
inventoried  and  other  information. 

The  rest  of  the  card  is  divided  into  twelve  columns 
with  the  names  of  the  months  printed  at  the  top  of 


108   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

the  columns.  If  the  inventory  is  to  be  taken  less 
frequently  the  card  could  be  divided  into  fewer  columns. 

On  the  first  page  of  the  scratch  book  make  a  list  of 
containers  in  use  with  the  accurate  weight  of  each 
empty  container. 

Under  different  headings  make  a  list  of  all  food  mate- 
rials. 

Headings  suggested : 

Ice  box  Store  room 

Vegetable  closets  Dining  room  pantry 

Kitchen  closets  Ice  cream  salt 
Pantry 

To  Take  the  Food  Inventory 

1.  Weigh  or  measure  everything  in  stock  at  the 
beginning    of  the  month     (take    the    inventory   for 
months  or  even  weeks).     Use  the  scratch  book   and 
keep  the  record  under  headings  given  above. 

2.  Make  out  a  card  for  each  article.     Milk,  cream, 
fish,  meats,  etc.,  which  are  likely  to  be  all  used  each 
time  they  are  purchased  may  be  inventoried  under  their 
general    headings,    for    example    under    MEAT  —  all 
meat  not  Beef,  Poultry  or  Lamb,  might  be  entered  on 
one   card,   only  four   cards   being  necessary.     Under 
Vegetables,  all  vegetables  not  purchased  in  bulk,  or 
which  are  of  nearly  the  same  nature. 

For  example, 

Greens  would  include 

Spinach,  Beet  tops,  Dandelions. 
Salad  Vegetables  and  Relishes: 

Lettuce,  Romaine,  Endive,  Cress,  Celery,  Radish. 
Succulent  Vegetables: 

Carrots,  Turnip,  Beets,  Parsnips,  Onions,  Brus- 

sel  Sprouts,  Salsify,  Egg  Plant,  etc. 
Potatoes:  White,  Sweet. 


FOOD  INVENTORY  109 

If  there  are  likely  to  be  left-overs  each  month  separate 
cards  must  be  provided.  Or  if  for  any  reason  it  is 
desirable  to  keep  exact  information  of  the  amount  of 
any  especial  article  used,  a  separate  card  should  be 
made  for  it  as,  for  example,  the  beef,  lamb,  and  poultry 
should  be  kept  separate,  so  that  one  can  be  aware  of 
too  frequent  use  or  disproportionate  expenditure  for 
any  one  article.  Otherwise  all  purchases  for  the  month 
may  be  entered  on  one  card:  example,  Milk  or  Cream 
or  Fish. 

3.  From  the  record  in  the  scratch  book  enter  the 
value  of  the  amount  on  hand  in  red  ink  at  the  head  of 
the  column  for  the  month. 

4.  Each  week,  when  the  grocery  bills  are  received, 
check  them  up  with  the  slips  received  each  day  and 
enter  the  value  of  each  purchase  on  the  card  designed 
for  it  in  the  column  for  that  month  in  black  ink. 
The  cost  per  pound    or  unit  of   measure   should  be 
kept  in  the  broad  column  at  the  left  of  the  card. 

At  the  end  of  the  month  get  the  total  amount  spent 
for  that  food  and  write  the  total  in  red  ink  directly 
under  the  last  entry. 

Don't  forget  to  enter  food  purchased  from  the 
Petty  Cash,  or  the  food  on  other  bills,  as  well  as  those 
from  the  regular  markets,  fish,  butter,  milk,  and 
cream,  canned  fruits  and  vegetables. 

Weigh  or  measure  all  foods  left  (keeping  the  record 
in  the  scratch  book),  estimate  the  value  of  each,  and 
enter  the  amount  on  the  card  at  the  top  of  the  next 
month's  column,  in  red  ink. 

The  difference  between  the  amount  in  red  figures  at  the 
head  of  next  month's  column  and  the  total  purchased 
for  the  month  will  be  the  value  of  the  amount  used. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  column  for  the  current  month 
write  the  value  of  the  amount  used,  in  red  ink. 


110   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

5.  Arrange  these  cards  under  general  groups  and 
write  an  index  card  for  each  group. 
Suggested  headings  for  index  cards: 

Vegetables  Eggs 

Canned  Fruits  and  Vegetables  Butter 

Meat  Fruits 

Fish  Groceries 

Milk  and  Cream  Ice 

When  all  the  cards  are  made  out  for  each  general 
subject,  add  all  the  red  figures  at  the  bottom  of  the 
columns  of  the  current  month  and  make  out  a  state- 
ment card  for  the  month,  giving  the  total  for  each 
index  group.  Add  these  totals  and  you  have  the  total 
cost  for  food  for  the  month.  Divide  that  by  the  number 
of  meals  served  and  you  have  the  cost  per  meal. 

Divide  the  total  cost  by  four  and  that  by  the  number 
in  the  family,  and  you  have  the  cost  per  person  for  a 
week. 

Make  out  a  statement  card  for  the  month,  this  should 
read: 

OCTOBER  CARD 

Total  cost  of  food  materials 

Number  meals  served : 

Family 

Guests 

Maids 

Total 

No.  in  family 

Cost  per  week  to  family 

Cost  per  meal 

Notes: 

1.  Barrels  of  flour  or  sugar,  large  cans  of  crackers, 
potatoes,  molasses,  vinegar,  olive  oil,  extracts,  etc., 


FOOD  INVENTORY  111 

must  be  estimated  by  getting  an  idea  of  the  volume 
and  reckoning  amount  used. 

Example: 

flour  J  bbl.  gone  —  f  left         2d  month  J  bbl.  left 
$8.75  per  bbl.  3)8.75  4)8.75     $5.84 

$2.91  used  $2.19     $2.19  left 

$5.84  left  $3.65  used 

2.  Spices  —  take  off  3  cents  each  month  (until  paid 
for)  for  each  kind. 

3.  Sugar  (granulated)  will  be  used  in  quite  regular 
amounts,  and  after  the  first  two  months  it  is  safe  to 
charge  up  a  definite  amount  each  month.    If  these 
purchases,    for   any   given   time,    suddenly   jump,    it 
should  be  investigated. 

4.  Cooked  food  on  hand  will  average  the  same  from 
month  to  month  and  need  not  be  considered.    The 
same  is  true  of  milk  and  ice. 

5.  Some  contents  of  the  ice  box,  as  cheese,  butter, 
bacon,  olive  oil,  and  salt  pork,  must  be  estimated 
each  month,  as  amounts  vary. 

6.  Do  not  attempt  the  impossible  —  food  materials 
can  all  be  weighed,  measured,  or  estimated  with  reason- 
able accuracy.  In  making  calculations  as  to  the  amount 
and  value  of  foods  left  over,  add  the  half  cent  to  the 
amount  used  (what  has  been  paid  for  one  month  need 
not  be  paid  for  again). 

7.  The  value  of  this  inventory  —  (a)  It  shows,  within 
a  few  cents,  exactly  how  much  it  is  costing  to  feed  your 
family. 

(6)  It  shows  from  month  to  month  what  you  are 
spending  for  each  kind  of  food  materials. 

(c)  Any  sudden  jump  in  these  amounts  at  once  indi- 
cates need  of  investigation. 


112   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

(d)  It  reveals  poor  marketing,  change  in  standards, 
advance  in  prices,  waste,   cost  of  hospitality,  petty 
thefts. 

If  not  satisfactory,  expenditures  can  be  controlled 
the  next  month. 

(e)  Costs  of  materials  are  fixed  in  the  mind. 

The  inventory  is  of  no  value  unless  figured  accurately 
and  done  understandingly. 


PART  II 
HOUSEWORK  RULES  AND  DIRECTIONS 


INTRODUCTION 

THE  details  of  housework  may  be  developed  to  fill 
several  books.  The  purpose  with  these  has  been  to 
keep  them  brief,  to  indicate  different  ways  which  are 
possible;  but  to  go  into  no  more  detail  than  is  neces- 
sary to  make  clear  to  the  inexperienced  worker  what 
are  the  results  desired,  the  methods,  utensils,  and  pre- 
cautions to  be  used,  in  order  to  accomplish  the  work 
without  undue  strain  or  the  use  of  too  much  tune. 
The  ideal  is  given;  alternatives  are  often  suggested. 

The  rules  for  waiting  on  table  are  as  simple,  concise, 
and  definite  as  possible.  It  has  seemed  desirable 
to  indicate  different  ways  of  serving.  A  little  study 
will  show  that  these  variations  are  not  allowed  to 
interfere  with  the  definite  plan  which  is  carried  through 
the  whole  set  of  directions.  There  are  other  books 
which  treat  in  detail  each  method  of  serving  and  each 
step  in  dining-room  work.  These  outlines  if  followed 
will  give  a  smooth,  dignified  table  service  without  re- 
quiring too  much  effort  from  one  maid.  The  direc- 
tions are  simple  and  if  studied  separately  the  un- 
trained maid  should  be  able  to  follow  them. 


CHAPTER  VII 
THE   CELLAR  AND    LAUNDRY 

CELLARS  should  be  well  drained  and  light.  Use 
for  storage  of  useful  things,  not  for  clutter. 

Care  of  the  Cellar 

Air  the  cellar  daily  in  winter,  in  summer  at 
night.  The  cellar  is  drier  if  the  hot  air  of  the  day  is 
shut  out  (the  moisture  does  not  condense). 

Keep  ashes  in  covered  metal  barrels. 

"The  air  of  the  cellar  permeates  the  house:  one-half 
goes  to  the  first  floor,  one-third  to  the  second  floor, 
one-fifth  to  the  third  floor."  (8.  Maria  Elliott.) 

"Decayed  vegetables  in  the  cellar  weave  shrouds 
for  the  upper  chambers."  (Dr.  F.  H.  Hamilton.) 

Remove  at  once  any  vegetables  unfit  for  use. 

Do  not  allow  the  cellar  to  collect  refuse.  Inspect 
the  cellar  once  a  week.  Sweep  frequently. 

Give  a  thorough  cleaning  twice  a  year:  air,  sweep 
walls,  ceilings,  and  one-half  the  floor. 

Clean  and  move  all  articles  to  the  clean  side.  Sweep 
and  clean  the  other  half. 

Brush  stationary  articles.  Let  the  dust  settle. 
Brush  again  (use  damp  brush). 

Wash  windows,  tables,  and  closet  shelves.  White- 
wash the  walls.  Replace  articles. 

Place  screens  in  windows. 

One  cleaning  should  be  given  when  the  coal  bins 
are  empty  and  the  furnace  not  in  use. 


116   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Furnace  and  furnace  pipes  should  be  cleaned  in  the 
Spring. 

Furnace  pipes  may  be  taken  down,  but  if  left  up  and 
an  occasional  fire  built  in  damp  weather  the  house  is  drier. 

Clear  everything  from  the  vegetable  cellar  at  the 
end  of  the  season. 

Quick  lime  left  in  the  cellar  absorbs  moisture. 

A  small  amount  may  be  left  in  metal  container; 
too  large  a  quantity  is  dangerous. 

Laundry 

The  amount  of  equipment  should  be  determined  by 
the  amount  of  work  to  be  done.  It  is  undesirable  to 
equip  an  elaborate  laundry  if  most  of  the  work  is  to  be 
done  out  of  the  house.  If  the  mistress  of  the  house 
is  to  do  her  own  laundry  work,  it  will  pay  her  to  put  in 
all  the  mechanical  devices  which  she  can  afford,  to 
lighten  her  work.  Hired  workers  are  frequently  careless 
with  mechanical  devices,  knowing  little  and  caring 
less  about  their  money  value. 

1.  If  possible,  plan  for  comfortable,  efficient  work. 

2.  Laundry  work  should  be  done  out  of  the  kitchen 

if  possible. 

3.  Separation  from  the  rest  of  the  house  is  desirable; 

the  steam  and  heat  are  kept  from  the  other 
rooms. 

4.  Tubs,  table,  and  ironing  board  should  be  placed 

at  a  convenient  height,  so  the  worker  can  stand 
erect  (the  ordinary  carpenter  will  place  them 
too  low).  It  is  better  to  have  them  too  high 
than  too  low. 

5.  Tubs  and  ironing  board  should  be  in  a  good  light. 

6.  Floor  — 

Wood — not  easily  kept  clean,  roughens  with 
use,  least  expense. 


THE  CELLAR  AND  LAUNDRY  117 

Tile  —  non-absorbent,  easy  to  clean,  expensive, 
hard  to  stand  on,  wears  well. 

Cement  —  may   be  made  non-absorbent   with 
cement  paint,  is  easy  to  keep  clean, 
durable,  medium  expense,  hard  to 
stand  on. 
(Use  rubber  mats  for  either  tiled  or  cement  floor.) 

7.  Stationary  Equipment  — 

(a)   Tubs  —  Two  necessary,  three  desirable. 

Should  be  set  away  from  the  wall  in  order 

to  clean  easily. 
Materials  for  tubs: 

Soapstone  —  medium    price,      absorbent, 

hard  to  care  for,  undesirable. 
Slate  —  slightly    more    expensive,   almost 
nonabsorbent,  easy  to  clean,  fairly  de- 
sirable, has  seams  and  is  dark  in  color. 
Porcelain  and  Enamel — smooth,  seamless, 
nonabsorbent,  use  increasing,  more  ex- 
pensive. 

(&)    Stoves  —  A  two-burner  gas  plate  may  be  used. 
Small  laundry  stoves  which  hold  a  boiler 
or  flat  irons  are  inexpensive  to  run  and 
first  cost  is  not  large;  they  may  be  con- 
nected with  the  hot  water  boiler  and  in 
the  summer  will  save  heat  in  the  kitchen. 
Do  not  blacken  such  stoves;  keep  them  clean 
and  dry;    rub  occasionally  with  unsalted 
fat,  but  do  not  use  very  much  at  any  time. 

8.  Movable  Equipment  — 
(a)     Portable  tubs: 

Wood  —  poor,  absorbent,  if  dry  they  drop 

apart,  unsanitary. 
Fiber  —  smooth,    seamless,    light,    break 

easily. 


118   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Galvanized  iron — good,  inexpensive,  fairly 
easy  to  handle,  must  be  kept  dry. 

(6)  Washboard: 

Wooden  —  absorbent  and  undesirable. 
Glass-covered  —  easy  to  clean  and  lasts  well. 
Zinc-covered  —  metal  cracks  or  wears   and 
tears  the  clothes. 

(c)  Washing  machines : 

Great  labor  and  time-saving  device,  useful 
for  rinsing  as  well  as  washing. 

Two  types: 
Vacuum. 
Revolving. 

Expense  from  one  to  one  hundred  dollars  up. 

Best  to  select  after  trial  and  choose  one  suited 
to  personal  needs. 

May  be  run  by  hand,  water,  or  electric  power. 

Mechanism  should  be  kept  well  oiled  and  the 
tub  perfectly  dry. 

(d)  Wringers: 

Time,  strength,  and  material  saver. 

Purchase  good  quality. 

Use  carefully. 

Loosen,  clean,  and  dry  the  rollers  after  use. 

Keep  the  rollers  covered  when  not  hi  use. 

Oil  the  bearings  often. 

(e)  Boiler: 

Oblong  boiler  all  copper  or  with  copper  bottom 
most  durable,  also  most  expensive. 

Tin  boiler  wears  quickly,  apt  to  rust  the 
clothes. 

Any  boiler  must  be  carefully  washed  and 
dried  after  use. 


THE  CELLAR  AND  LAUNDRY  119 

(/)  Irons: 

Electric  iron  preferable,  even  heat,  saves  steps 

—  expensive. 
Gas  iron  desirable  when  there  is  gas  and  no 

electricity. 

Alcohol  iron  good  in  absence  of  the  other  two. 
Common    irons — come    in    different    sizes, 

weights,  and  shapes. 

Must  be  kept  free  from  rust  and  very  smooth. 
At  least  three  are  necessary,  four  desirable  — 

one  heavy,  three  medium,  one  light. 
Nickel-plated  irons  with  adjustable  handles 
do  not  rust. 

(g)  Mangle: 

Expensive,  desirable  if  much  work  is  to  be 
done  in  the  house. 

List  for  Laundry  Equipment  and  Materials 

EQUIPMENT  MATERIALS 

Washing 

Stove  Soft  water 

Tubs  Soap  or  chips  (little  resin) 

Pails  Ammonia 

Dipper  Borax 

Boiler  Salt 

Washboard  Bluing 

Washing  machine  Starch 

Wringer 
Clothes  stick 

Clothes  basket  (one  or  two) 
Clothesline 
Clothespins  in  bag 
4-qt.  saucepan 
Teakettle 
Teaspoon 
Wooden  spoon 


120   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 


Cup 

Strainer 

Sprinkler 

2  bowls 


Bleaching 

Javelle  water 
Peroxide 

Oxalic  acid  (must  be  used  with 
care) 


Ironing 


Choice  of 


flatirons 
electric  iron 
gas  iron 
alcohol  iron 


Wax 

Salt  for  smoothing  iron 
Cold  starch 
Soft  water 


Skirt  board 

Ironing  board 

Sleeve  board 

Mangle 

Iron  stand 

Iron  holder 

Emery  paper 

Comb  and  fringe  brush 

Clothes  horse 

Method: 

Sort  the  clothes  in  piles;  watch  for  stains  and  neces- 
sary repairs. 
Put  articles  of  a  kind  together: 

Table  linen  and  fine  towels. 

Bed  linen. 

Fine   lingerie   and   white   waists,    slightly   soiled 
handkerchiefs. 

Underwear. 

Towels. 

Colored  clothes. 

Woolen  clothes. 

Stockings. 


THE  CELLAR  AND  LAUNDRY  121 

Handkerchiefs,  if  used  for  coughs  and  colds,  should 
be  soaked  in  salt  water,  boiled  separately  one- 
half  hour,  and  washed  well. 
White  Clothes: 

Remove  stains. 

Soak    the    white   clothes   in  soapy  water,    over- 
night if  possible. 
Soak    especially    soiled    clothes    separately,    rub 

soap  directly  on  soiled  places. 
Rub  well;  wash  in  several  waters  if  necessary. 
Boil,  rinse  well,  blue,  and  if  desirable  starch. 
Clothes  that  are  not  well  rinsed  look  gray  and 

smell  of  soap. 

Some  kinds  of  bluing  will  make  small  rust  spots  on 
the  clothes  if  the  soap  is  not  entirely  rinsed  out. 
To  blue  clothes: 
Use  clean  cold  water  and  mix  the  bluing  with  the 

water  before  putting  in  the  clothes. 
Do  not  make  clothes  too  blue. 
Do  not  let  clothes  stand  in  bluing  water. 

To  starch  clothes: 

Be  sure  the  starch  is  free  from  lumps,  well  cooked, 
and  hot. 

Dip  the  wet  places  into  the  starch  separately  and  wring 
them  out;  be  sure  every  part  is  wet  with  the  starch. 

Hang  away  from  the  wind. 

When  raw  starch  is  used  the  articles  must  be  thor- 
oughly dry  when  starched. 

Rub  the  starch  well  into  the  fibers  and  squeeze 
between  the  hands.  Roll  in  a  towel  for  an  hour 
before  ironing. 

To  dry  clothes: 

Dry  clothes  out  of  doors  if  possible;  they  are  whiter 
and  have  a  fresher  feeling. 


122   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Be  sure  the  lines  are  clean,  strong,  and  tight. 

If  they  have  been  left  out,  wipe  them  with  a  clean 

damp  cloth. 

Provide  clean,  whole  clothespins. 
Hang  white  clothes  in  the  sun  if  possible. 
Very  fine  pieces  should  be  hung  with  extra  cloths 

for  protection   between   the   clothespin   and   the 

line,  especially  in  the  winter  when  they  freeze 

and  t.ear  easily. 
When  the  clothes  are  hung  to  dry  care  should  be 

taken  to  let  the  strain  of  the  weight  come  on  the 

warp  threads,  especially  with  table  linen  and  bed 

linen. 

Care  in  hanging  saves  much  work  in  ironing. 
Learn  to  hang  clothes  so  that  wrinkles  will  blow  out. 
The  sun  whitens   clothes;   dampening  with   soapy 

solution  and  placing  in  the  hot  sun  will  usually 

bleach  time  stains.    Repeat  until  the  stain  dis- 
appears. 
Ironing: 

The  object  in  ironing  clothes  is  to  make  them  smooth 

and  free  from  wrinkles. 
The  ironing  board  should  be  covered  first  with  a 

thick  pad,  then  with  cotton  tightly  and  smoothly 

stretched. 
The  clothes  which  are  to  be  carefully  ironed  must 

be  well  dampened. 
Sprinkle  evenly  with  the  hand  or  a  whisk  broom 

kept  for  the  purpose. 
If  the  clothes  are  too  wet  the  iron  will  stick  to 

starched  clothes;  if  too  dry  wrinkles  will  not  iron 

out. 
Roll  in  smooth,  tight  rolls;  straight  articles,  like  towels, 

napkins,  etc.,  may  be  rolled  all  of  a  kind  together. 
Allow  to  stand  several  hours  or  overnight. 


THE  CELLAR  AND  LAUNDRY  123 

Many  people  prefer  not  to  iron  sheets,  Turkish 
towels,  or  body  clothes.  Sun-dried  clothes  have 
a  fresh  sweet  smell. 

If  clothes  are  not  to  be  ironed,  stretch  more  carefully 
when  hanging  and  fold  directly  from  the  line. 

With  limited  time  it  is  better  to  iron  well  the  impor- 
tant articles  and  choose  such  material  for  the  rest 
that  ironing  is  not  necessary. 

Be  sure  the  irons  are  clean. 

Iron  coarse  things  first;  finest  things,  —  lingerie, 
neckwear,  and  dresses — last. 

Iron  all  pieces  until  dry. 

Articles  must  be  ironed  straight  with  the  thread  or 
they  will  be  out  of  shape. 

Iron  the  thinnest  part  of  a  garment  first,  then  the 
part  which  will  muss  least  easily  while  the  ironing 
is  being  finished,  then  the  fussy  parts  where  wrinkles 
will  spoil  the  appearance  of  the  whole. 
Colored  Clothes: 

Try  a  sample  first  if  possible. 

Set  the  color  by  soaking  in  one  gallon  of  water  with 
two  cups  of  salt  or  one  cup  white  vinegar;  dry 
before  washing. 

Do  not  soak  colored  clothes  when  washing. 

Use  soft  water  and  little  soap. 

Wash  before  they  are  badly  soiled. 

Wet  with  cold  water. 

Wash  with  warm  soapy  suds. 

Do  not  rub  with  soap  if  it  can  be  avoided. 

Squeeze  between  the  hands. 

Avoid  rubbing  and  wringing. 

Rinse  in  several  waters  and  starch  wrong  side  out; 
rub  the  starch  in. 

Hang  in  the  shade  wrong  side  out,  where  there  is  a 
current  of  air  to  dry  quickly. 


124   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Bring  in  the  house  as  soon  as  dry. 

Dampen  and  allow  to  stand  only  a  short  time  (not 

overnight)  before  ironing. 
Iron  on  the  wrong  side  if  you  desire  them  to  look 

new;    they  will  not  keep  clean  so  long. 
Avoid  too  great  heat;  it  may  change  the  color. 

Stockings: 
Use  soap  for  washing  the  feet  of  the  stockings  but 

not  for  the  tops. 

Wash  first  the  right,  then  the  wrong  side. 
Rinse  well  in  fresh  water  (to  avoid  the  lint  from  other 

clothing). 

Pull  into  shape  and  hang  wrong  side  out  by  the 
tops. 

Flannels: 

Shake  well  to  get  rid  of  loose  dirt. 

Wash  one  piece  at  a  time. 

Use  suds  made  from  mild  soap  and  soft  lukewarm 
water. 

Use  several  waters,  all  the  same  temperature. 

Rinse  carefully  —  to  the  last  water  may  be  added 
a  small  amount  of  glycerine,  J  teaspoon  to  a 
gallon  of  water,  or  just  enough  soapsuds  so  that 
the  water  feels  smooth;  this  makes  the  wool 
soft. 

Shake  well  and  dry  at  room  temperature  slowly. 

Pull  into  shape  while  drying. 

Iron  with  a  warm  iron  if  at  all. 

Do  not  allow  woolen  materials  to  get  very  dirty 
before  washing. 

Do  not  rub  soap  on  the  material. 

Do  not  change  the  temperature  of  washing  and  rins- 
ing water. 

Do  not  soak  or  boil  or  rub  woolen  material. 


THE  CELLAR  AND  LAUNDRY  125 

Do  not  twist  woolen  material  as  in  wringing  by  hand. 
Do  not  let  flannel  freeze. 
Do  not  use  too  hot  an  iron. 
Do  not  dry  by  the  fire. 

Silks: 

Use  suds  of  lukewarm  water  and  mild  soap. 
Rub  as  little  as  possible. 
Rinse  well. 
Squeeze  (do  not  twist)  between  the  hands  or  wring 

between  cloth  in  wringer. 
Roll  at  once  in  soft  cloth  and  let  stand  about  an 

hour. 

Iron  while  damp. 
Do  not  sprinkle. 
Iron  on  wrong  side. 
Do  not  use  too  hot  an  iron;  it  yellows  silk  and  makes 

it  stiff. 
Silk  underwear  should  be  stretched,  not  ironed. 

To  Clean  the  Laundry 

Clean  each  utensil. 

Put  everything  in  its  proper  place. 

Wash  and  scrub  and  dry  the  tubs. 

Flush  the  pipes  with  soda  water. 

Oil  the  washing  machine. 

Loosen  and  cover  the  rolls  of  the  wringer. 

Cover  the  clothes  basket  from  dust. 

Do  not  store  anything  in  the  tubs. 

Cover  the  tubs  from  dust. 

If  the  cover  of  the  ironing  board  is  stained  or  burned, 

replace  it. 

Wind  and  bring  in  the  clothesline. 
Gather  up  all  the  clothespins  and  put  in  bag  or  basket 

provided  for  them. 


126    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Clean  and  smooth  the  irons  and  put  them  away  in  a 
dry  place. 

Never  allow  irons  to  stand  on  the  stove  when  not  in 
use. 

Electric  irons  should  be  carefully  covered  from  damp- 
ness, the  cord  disconnected,  and  put  away. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

THE   KITCHEN  AND   KITCHEN   PANTRY 

Care  of  Kitchen  and  Kitchen  Pantry 

Daily  Care: 

Empty  and  wash  small  garbage  can. 

Sweep  and  dust. 

Wipe,  wash,  or  scour  work  tables  and  shelves. 

Wipe  or  wash  the  floor  when  necessary. 

Clean  the  range  and  gas  stove. 

Wash  and  scour  the  sinks. 
Weekly  Care: 

Special  attention  to  gas  burners,  floor,  tables,  re- 
frigerator, shelves,  and  food  containers. 

Disinfection  of  sink,  drainage  pipes,  and  yard  garbage 

can. 
Monthly  Care: 

Brush  the  walls. 

Clean  under  the  oven  of  the  coal  stove. 

General  inspection  to  see  that  things  are  in  order 
and  clean. 

Special  attention  to  shelves  and  cupboards. 
Seasonal  Care: 

Wash  the  walls  and  storage  shelves  and  cupboards. 
The  ideal  would  be  to  wash  the  walls  as  often  as 
once  a  month;  but  if  the  dust  is  kept  brushed  off 
the  washing  can  be  done  less  frequently. 

Coal  Range 

CHOICE 

In  choosing  look:  For  a  range  which  is  plain,  with 
little  or  no  nickel  or  ornament, 


128  MARKETING  AND   HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

For  a  simple,  clean  arrangement  for  removal  of 
ashes, 

For  a  convenient  opening  for  cleaning  the  flues. 

An  eight-inch  cover  is  more  convenient  than 
smaller  ones,  and  one  should  be  sure  that  the  oven 
is  the  size  suitable  for  her  needs. 

CONSTRUCTION  AND   PARTS 

A  metal  or  iron  box  with  a  smaller  box  at  the  end. 
Some  built-in  ranges  have  small  boxes  at  each  end. 
Flues: 

Both  boxes  are  surrounded  by  a  larger  box,  with 

air  spaces,  called  flues,  between. 
Fire  Box: 

The  small  box  opens  at  the  top  into  the  air  space; 

and  is  divided  horizontally  by  a  grate. 
The  top  part  is  called  the  fire  box. 
Ash  Box: 

The  lower  part  is  called  the  ash  box. 
Oven: 
The  large  box,  called  the  oven,  is  surrounded  by  air 

spaces  on  top,  side,  and  bottom. 
Water  Connection  and  Lining: 

Coils  of  pipe  or  metal  front  for  water  in  fire  box  — 
other  sides  of  fire  box  are  usually  lined  with  fire 
brick. 

Chimney  Damper: 

A  flat  plate,  which  when  shut  nearly  closes  the  space 
opening  into  the  chimney — when  CLOSED  the 
heat  goes  round  the  oven  and  heats  it;  when 
OPEN  the  heat  goes  directly  up  the  chimney  — 
the  fire  burns  more  rapidly  but  the  oven  does  not 
heat.  These  dampers  may  usually  be  CLOSED 
in  10  to  15  minutes  after  the  fire  is  started. 


THE  KITCHEN  AND  KITCHEN  PANTRY     129 

Drafts: 

Doors  or  slides  below  the  fire  box  which,  when  open, 
allow  a  strong  current  of  air  to  pass  up  through 
fire;  this  causes  rapid  combustion  and  if  the 
chimney  damper  is  closed  the  oven  heats  quickly. 
When  the  drafts  are  closed  the  fire  burns  more 
slowly,  as  most  of  the  ah*  is  shut  out. 

Checks: 

Slides  in  the  small  door  above  the  fire  box  and  in 
the  chimney  pipe  which,  when  open,  let  cold  air 
in  on  top  of  the  fire,  force  the  heat  back  and 
deaden  the  blaze. 

Facts  to  Remember 

1.  There  must  be  free  circulation  of  air  through  the 

fuel  —  air  spaces  between  the  paper,  wood,  and 
coal. 

2.  Air  entering  the  stove  under  the  fire  causes  an 

upward  draft  and  makes  it  burn  faster. 

3.  Lack  of  air  under  the  fire  checks  it. 

4.  Cold  air  over  the  fire  checks  it. 

5.  With  the  draft  and  the  chimney  damper  open, 

the  fire  burns  fiercely,  the  top  of  the  stove 
grows  very  hot,  but  the  oven  is  not  heated. 

6.  Proper  use  of  checks  and  drafts  will  control  a  fire. 

7.  Ashes  in  the  pan  when  you  start  a  fire  will  absorb 

the  heat  at  first. 

8.  When  the  fire  has  burned  dull  red  or  white  the 

coals  are  exhausted  —  burning  to  white  heat 
melts  the  coals,  makes  clinkers,  and  injures  the 
top  of  the  stove. 

9.  Clinkers  may  be  removed  by  burning  oyster  shells 

or  quicklime  on  top  of  the  fire. 

10.   If  the  top  of  the  stove  gets  red  hot,  the  covers 
will  warp. 


130    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

11.  Shaking,  packs  an  old  fire  down  and  stops  the 

draft.  Raking  from  below  or  turning  a  revolv- 
ing grate  removes  the  ashes  without  packing 
the  fire. 

12.  Too  shallow  a  bed  of  coals  won't  burn  well. 

13.  Coals  above  the  fire  box  lining  waste  heat  and 

injure  the  top  of  the  stove. 

14.  A  hard  coal  fire  must  not  be  poked  from  the  top. 

Gas  Range 

CHOICE 

The  fireless  cooker  gas  range  is  excellent  and  a  money 

and  tune  saver.    It  is  still  too  expensive  for  many 

people. 
In  time  its  use  will  save  the  extra  cost;    but  one 

must  consider  that  the  initial  cost  is  greater  than 

that  of  the  cabinet  or  box  range. 
Second  choice  a  cabinet  range  with  ovens  on  a  level 

with  the  eye  at  the  side  of  the  top  cookers.     There 

is  no  adequate  reason  for  having  the  oven  so  low 

that  one  must  stoop  to  it. 

~  CONSTRUCTION 

Oven : 

The  oven  may  be  at  the  side,  above  or  below 
the  top  cookers. 

Usually  a  steel  box  with  holes  in  it  to  allow  the 
passage  of  hot  air,  surrounded  by  another  or  cen- 
ter steel  case  with  hot  air  space  between. 

Outside  of  center  case  a  steel  case  with  ah*  space 
and  asbestos  lining  between. 

This  outer  case  also  covers  space  below  oven  box, 
inclosing  the  broiling  oven  and  burners. 

Burners  under  the  box  or  oven,  usually  with  an 
opening  and  cock  outside  which  is  called  pilot 
cock. 


THE  KITCHEN  AND  KITCHEN  PANTRY    131 

Broiling  pan  under  burners. 

The  heat  and  odors  carried  away  through  chimney 

connection  at  the  top  of  the  stove. 
Top  Cookers: 

Round  burners  with   grates  or  racks   above   to 

hold  the  cooking  utensils. 
Removable  pan  under  burners. 
Burners  should  have  an  opening  or  valve  in  the 

pipe  to  admit  air.     This  must  be  adjusted  so 

that  the  flames  will  be  clear. 
Burners  should  be  removable  so  that  they  can  be 

easily  cleaned. 

USE  AND  CARE  OF  GAS  RANGE 

1.  Study  and  learn  the  position  of  the  supply  pipes 
and  burners.     Be  sure  there  is  an  outlet  to  the  chimney. 

2.  Learn  where  the  gas  cocks  are  and  which  way  to 
turn  them  to  open  and  close.     (Handles  should  turn 
to  the  right  to  shut  off  the  supply.) 

3.  It  is  a  good  plan  when  the  range  is  not  in  use  to 
close  the  cock  in  the  main  pipe  so  that  there  can  be 
no  leakage  from  imperfectly  closed  cocks  at  the  stove. 

4.  To  light  a  burner,  open  the  cock  in  the  supply 
pipe,  light  a  match  and  hold  it  away  from  the  stove. 
Open  the  cock  in  the  burner  pipe  and  apply  the  match 
or  taper.    Do  not  apply  the  match  before  the  cock 
is  opened,  as  the  gas  is  liable  to  light  back  in  the 
pipe. 

5.  To  light  the  oven  burner,  close  the  oven  cocks 
tight  —  open  the  oven  doors  (important)  —  open  the 
pilot  cock  and  apply  the  match  through  the  hole  made 
for   the  purpose.     Open   one   oven    cock,    then    the 
other;    when  both  are  burning  clear,  close  the  pilot 
cock. 

6.  Gas  should  burn  a  clear  blue  with  orange  light 


132  MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

at  the  tips  of  the  flames.  If  it  splutters  and  burns 
yellow,  it  has  lighted  back,  will  not  heat,  will  smut,  and 
should  be  turned  off  and  lighted  again. 

7.  Light  the  top  burners  when  ready  to  use  them, 
the  oven  burners  five  minutes  before  using  for  broiling 
or  toasting;    five  to  ten  minutes  for  baking  or  roasting. 
Reduce  the  heat  when  the  oven  is  hot.     One  burner 
may  often  be  turned  out  entirely. 

8.  Do  not  waste  gas;  when  a  small,  low  flame  will 
do,  use  it.    When  water  boils  turn  the  flame  as  low 
as  possible  to  continue  boiling.      Use  the  simmering 
burner  whenever  possible.     It  gives  enough  heat  to 
continue  cooking  which  has  been  started  on  the  large 
burners. 

9.  Gas  should  burn  so  as  to  strike  the  bottom,  not 
the  sides  of  the  saucepan.     Place  the  saucepan  over 
the  center  of  the  flame.    Use  saucepans  of  a  size  suita- 
ble for  the  burner  —  do  not  use  small  saucepans  on 
large  burners. 

10.  Turn  off  the  gas  before  removing  the  saucepan 
from  the  stove.    Never  let  the  gas  burn  an  instant 
unless  in  use,  or  to  heat  the  oven. 

Matches  are  cheaper  than  gas.    A  patent  lighter  is 
a  good  investment. 

11.  When  the  oven  is  hot  from  baking,  or  while 
broiling,  place  a  pan  filled  with  water  in  it  and  the 
water  will  heat  without  the  expense  of  extra  gas. 

12.  Plan  to  bake  while  the  oven  is  in  use  for  broiling. 

13.  Keep   the  holes  in  all   the  burners   clear.     If 
food  boils  over,  remove  the  burners  and  clean  by  boil- 
ing in  soda   solution.     Clean  the  iron  sheet  under  the 
burners  every  day.    A  paper  over  the  iron  sheet  is 
dangerous,  as  it  catches  fire  easily. 

14.  Rub  the  range  with  crumpled  newspaper  to  re- 
move spots.     Wash  or  scour  off  anything  the  paper 


THE  KITCHEN  AND  KITCHEN  PANTRY    133 

will  not  remove.  Rub  with  a  cloth  with  a  few  drops 
of  kerosene  to  remove  rust,  and  then  with  a  slightly 
greasy  cloth  to  blacken.  Use  blacking  only  in  extreme 
cases,  and  never  on  the  gas  burners. 

15.  If  the  gas  burns  yellow,  with  a  roar  and  bad 
odor,  it  has  too  much  air;  close  the  air  valve.     If 
yellow  and  smoky,  it  has  too  little  air;  open  the  air  valve 
until  the  flame  burns  clear. 

16.  Removable  burners  may  be  boiled  out  in  a  solu- 
tion of  washing  soda,  two  tablespoons  of  soda  to  a  gallon 
of  water. 

17.  A  crown  top  spreads  the  gas,  heats  a  larger 
surface,  and  saves  gas. 

18.  Report   a   gas  leak   at   once,   and   frequently, 
until  repaired. 

19.  A  gas  plate  and  portable  oven  will  do  very  good 
work  at  comparatively  small  expense.     It  is  well  to 
have  a  portable  oven  to  use  on  a  gas  range  for  a  small 
amount  of  baking. 

Kerosene  Stoves 
Use  and  Care: 
Study  the  stove,  read  the  directions  carefully,  light, 

regulate,   and  turn  out  the  flame  several  times 

before  trying  to  use  the  stove  for  cooking. 
CLEAN  THE  SURFACE  OF  THE  STOVE  EVERY  DAY. 

Keep  the  stove  absolutely  free  from  dust  and  bits 

of  charred  wick  and  food. 
CLEAN  THOROUGHLY,  OFTEN.     Be  sure  that  no  oil 

gathers  on  the  outside  of  the  burners  or  flame 

spreaders. 

Never  allow  the  stove  to  burn  dry. 
Clean  the  wick  according  to  special  directions  for 

each  stove;    cut  off  the  loose  ends,    but  do  not 

trim  the  wick  with  scissors. 


134  MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Keep  the  wick  clean  and  free  from  charred  top. 
The  stove  should  be  filled  every  day  if  used. 
Watch  for  leaks  and  remedy  at  once. 
If  the  flame  dies  down  when  the  tank  is  full  of  oil, 

it  is  because  the  wick  is  short. 
The  feed  pipe  from  the  tank  to  the  burner  should 

be  drained  occasionally  to  free  it  from  sediment. 

Fireless  Cookers 

May  be  home  made;  see  Farmers,  Bulletin  No.  771, 
"Homemade  Fireless  Cookers  and  Their  Use." 

Ready-made  fireless  cookers  —  more  expensive,  more 
convenient,  easier  to  keep  clean. 

Purpose: 

Retention  of  heat  in  the  food  so  that  food  may  be 

cooked  without  the  continuous  application  of  heat. 
The  insulating  material  with  which  the  cooker  is 

packed  prevents  radiation  and  escape  of  the  heat, 

which  is  thus  enabled  to  complete  the  cooking 

of  the  food. 

Construction: 
Outside  box. 
Insulating  material  between  the  box  and  the  metal 

lining  of  the  container. 
Cooking  utensils  with  close-fitting  covers. 
Pad  or  cover  of  insulating  material. 
Heating  stones  or  metal  disks. 

Use: 

Best  suited  to  foods  which  require  long,  slow  cooking, 
cereals,  steamed  breads,  stews,  pot  roast,  vegeta- 
bles, dried  fruits,  etc. 

Baking  or  other  quick  process  not  so  desirable. 

Frying  not  possible. 


THE  KITCHEN  AND  KITCHEN  PANTRY     135 

Method  of  Use: 

Cook  the  food  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  heated, 

ten  to  twenty  minutes. 
Place  in  the  cooker  and  close.     Cook  until  done,  the 

time  according  to  the  nature  and  amount  of  the 

food.     (See  recipes  for  use  with  Fireless  Cookers.) 
Extra  heat  may  be  provided  by  heating  stone  or 

metal  disks  until  hissing  hot  and  placing  in  the 

cooker  under  the  cooking  utensil. 
Food  may  be  browned  by  hanging  such  a  hot  disk 

inside  the  cooking  utensil;   but  there  must  be  no 

water  in  the  utensil. 

Care  of  Cooker: 

Dry  perfectly  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  food  is 
removed.  Leave  the  cover  ajar  until  ready  to 
use  again. 

Never  let  anything  drop  into  the  cooker  compart- 
ment and  dent  the  lining. 

Wash  the  cooker  lining  with  hot  soapsuds  and  scour 
spots  with  Dutch  Cleanser.  Dry  perfectly  to 
prevent  rust. 

Kitchen  Sinks 
Choice: 

Choose  the  material  best  suited  to  the  type  of  house. 

Place  in  front  of  a  window  if  possible,  with  a  shelf 
or  draining  board  each  side. 

The  space  under  the  sink  should  be  open. 

See  that  the  sink  is  set  high  enough  for  the  worker, 
the  bottom  of  the  sink  even  with  the  flat  hand 
when  the  worker  is  standing  erect,  with  arms 
straight  down  in  front  and  the  hand  turned  flat 
at  right  angles  to  the  body. 


136   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Iron  (not  a  desirable  choice). 

1.  Rusts  easily.     Scrub,  scour,  and  scald  frequently. 

2.  A  little  kerosene  rubbed  into  the  iron  each  day 

keeps  it  in  good  condition. 

3.  If  an  iron  sink  gets  rough  and  rusty,  rub  soft 

mutton  fat  inside  the  sink  and  sprinkle  with 
powdered  quicklime.  Let  this  stand  over- 
night, wash  off  with  water  and  an  old  brush  — 
swab  the  sink  well  with  sal  soda  solution  and 
dry  thoroughly.  Repeat  if  necessary. 

4.  An  occasional  greasing  overnight  is  good  for  an 

iron  sink.     Always  follow  with  sal  soda  solution 
to  clear  the  grease  from  the  pipes. 
Soapstone: 

1.  Inexpensive,  soft,  absorbent,  hard  to  clean. 

2.  Keep  the  surface  oiled;  scour,  then  oil. 

3.  Do  not  chip  or  break  the  surface. 

4.  Keep  clean:  use  hot  water,  soap,  and  a  brush. 

5.  Avoid  coarse  friction. 
Slate: 

Non-absorbent,  easy  to  clean,  very  satisfactory. 
Expands  and  contracts  —  may  crack. 
Use  caution  about  sudden  change  of  temperature. 
Keep  oiled. 

Clean  as  for  soapstone. 
Porcelain  lined: 

Must  be  kept  clean  without  hard  scouring,  kerosene 

will  usually  remove  spots. 

Chips  easily  and  will  not  stand  careless,  hard  wear. 
Protect  the  bottom  with  a  rubber  mat. 
All  Porcelain: 

Expensive,  will  break  or  chip  —  attractive,  must  be 

cleaned  with  soft  friction  or  kerosene.     Durable 

if  used  with  care. 


THE  KITCHEN  AND  KITCHEN  PANTRY     137 

Use  and  Care  of  Sinks: 
Keep  the  pipes  free  from  bits  of  food. 
Use  a  strainer  in  the  sink. 
Avoid  greasy  water.     Wipe  the  grease  from  dishes 

before  putting  them  in  the  dish  water. 
Wash  the  sink  with  hot,  soapy  water  each  time  it  is 

used  for  washing  dishes,  and  rinse  with  cold  water. 
Scrub  the  sink  once  a  day.     Rinse  with  much  cold 

water. 
Once  a  week  flush  the  pipes  thoroughly  with  hot 

water,  then  with  a  strong  solution  of  sal  soda  and 

much  hot,  then  cold  water.     Use  1  pt.  of  sal  soda 

to  12  qts.  of  boiling  water.     (J  cup  of  soda  to 

3  qts.  of  water  for  one  sink.) 
If  the  pipes  are  stopped,  make  the  solution  four  times 

as  strong,  or  use  a  solution  of  potash  which  makes 

soft  soap  of  grease. 

Process  with  Potash: 

Dissolve  a  can  of  potash  in  2  qts.  of  cold  water. 
Warm  the  pipes  with  boiling  water. 
Pour  in  the  potash  solution. 
In  half  an  hour,  pour  down  much  boiling  water  — 

and  rinse  well. 

Avoid  letting  the  potash  touch  the  hands  or  wood. 
Do  not  inhale  the  fumes  of  the  potash. 

Refrigerator 

Choice: 

Look  for  well-insulated  walls  with  tight  joints. 

A  possible  temperature  of  40-42  degrees. 

Good  circulation  of  air  currents. 

Smooth,  easily  cleaned,  non-absorbent  lining. 

Select  a  size  proper  for  your  needs. 

For  construction  of  refrigerator  see  Kinne  and  Cooley 


138   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

in  " Foods  and  Household  Management,"  pages 
22-23. 
Use  and  Care: 

1.  Stand   in    a    light   well-aired    place.     Outside 

conditions  should  not  affect  the  inside  tem- 
perature, unless  the  door  is  left  open. 
Remember  that  if  the  door  is  left  ajar  the  hot 
air  goes  into  the  refrigerator  and  raises  the 
temperature. 

2.  Do  not  connect  with  the  regular  drain  pipe 

unless  well  trapped  and  carefully  watched. 

3.  May  drain  into  a  pan  or  a  special  pipe  which 

leads  out  of  the  house  and  discharges  at  some 
distance  on  loose  stones,  or  has  a  flexible  end 
so  that  the  direction  of  the  discharge  may  be 
changed  frequently. 

4.  To  get  the  best  service  keep  the  ice  chamber 

full  of  ice.  The  air  in  the  box  is  then  cold 
all  the  time  and  the  ice  melts  less  rapidly. 

5.  Do  not  cover  the  ice  with  paper  or  blanket  —  it 

prevents  good  circulation  of  air  currents  and 
raises  the  temperature  of  the  refrigerator 
chambers.  What  is  saved  in  cost  of  ice  is 
lost  in  refrigeration. 

6.  The  coldest,  driest  part  of  the  refrigerator  is 

the  first  chamber  into  which  the  air  passes 
after  cooling  on  the  ice.  Place  the  milk  and 
butter  in  this  chamber,  and  keep  them  covered. 

7.  Food  with  a  strong  odor  should  be  covered  and 

kept  hi  the  upper  part  of  the  last  chamber  in 
the  air  cycle. 

8.  Do  not  use  the  ice  chamber  for  food;  it  is  likely 

to  absorb  odor  and  the  temperature  is  no 
lower  than  in  the  next  compartment  if  the 
circulation  is  right. 


THE  KITCHEN  AND  KITCHEN  PANTRY     139 

9.  Do  not  put  warm  food  in  the  refrigerator;  it 
raises  the  temperature  and  increases  the  ice 
bill. 

10.  Use  only  clean,  inexpensive  dishes  in  a  refrigera- 

tor —  fine  china  or  glass  break  or  chip. 

11.  Wipe  the  shelves  at  once  if  any  food  is  spilled. 

12.  Never  allow  food  to  stay  in  the  refrigerator  long 

enough  to  spoil. 

13.  Watch  that  food  does  not  touch  the  sides  of  the 

food  chambers  and  dry  on. 

14.  Do  not  allow  left-overs  to  collect. 

15.  Do  not  put  paper  bags  in  the  ice  or  food  chambers. 

16.  If  the  lining  of  the  refrigerator  is  broken  have 

it  repaired  at  once. 

17.  Whenever  ice  is  to  be  put  in,  remove  the  small 

pieces  and  wipe  out  the  ice  chamber.    Wash 
the  new  ice  and  replace  the  old  piece. 

18.  Keep  the  shelves  and  walls  of  the  food  chambers 

clean  every    day.     Once  a  week  clean   the 
whole  chest  and  air  it  thoroughly. 

19.  Keep  the  doors  closed  tight  except  when  ab- 

solutely in  use  or  cleaning. 

20.  When  using  the  refrigerator  for  the  first  time  in 

a  season  clean  it  and  put  in  ice  several  hours 
before  any  food  is  placed  in  the  food  chambers. 

To  Clean  the  Refrigerator: 
Clean  when  the  ice  is  low. 
Remove  the  food  and  cover  it  from  the  dust. 
Remove  the  ice  and  cover  with  newspaper  to  prevent 

melting. 
Prepare  hot  soapy  water. 

Ice  Chamber: 

Remove  the  ice  racks  and  wash  and  scrub  thor- 
oughly. 


140   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Scrub   the  ice  chamber  and  rinse  with  boiling 

water. 
Remove  the  waste  pipe  and  trap  if  possible  and 

scour  inside  and  out.  < 
Pour  boiling  water  through  it.     Clean  the  trap 

and  replace  the  pipe. 
If  the  trap  is  fixed,  brush  or  swab  it  out  and  scald 

with  strong  soda  water. 
Replace  the  racks  and  ice,  shut  the  doors  tight, 

and  wipe  the  outside. 
Scrub  the  drip  pan  and  replace  it. 

Food  Chamber: 

Remove  the  shelves  and  wash  and  scrub  with  hot 
soapsuds. 

Use  a  BRUSH  —  Rinse  with  hot  water  with  am- 
monia in  it. 

Dry  with  a  cloth  and  place  in  the  open  air,  if 
possible  in  the  sun. 

Scrub  the  top,  bottom,  sides,  and  the  inside  of 
the  door  of  the  food  chambers. 

Use  a  skewer  for  corners  and  angles. 

Rinse  with  hot  ammonia  water  and  wipe  dry. 
Leave  open  to  the  air. 

Wash  the  sill  where  the  door  closes. 

Replace  the  shelves  and  food.  Close  the  doors 
tight. 

Disposal  of  Kitchen  Waste 

Burn  all  you  can. 

Keep  the  garbage  separate  from  the  other  waste 

and  in  a  covered  can. 

Empty  large  cans  two  or  three  times  a  week. 
If  the  city  collects  garbage  and  waste,  report  at  once 

any  failure  to  collect  at  the  usual  time. 


THE  KITCHEN  AND  KITCHEN  PANTRY    141 

Wash  and  disinfect  the  cans  every  time  they  are 
emptied.  A  paper  in  the  bottom  makes  this 
easier,  but  local  laws  may  prevent  the  use  of  paper 
with  garbage. 

Have  small  garbage  cans  for  use  in  the  kitchen  and 
pantry. 

Empty  these  each  day,  or  oftener,  and  wash  carefully. 

Dry  waste  should  be  kept  in  barrels  and  emptied 
by  the  city,  or  burned  in  proper  cages. 

Empty  tin  cans  should  be  rinsed,  to  remove  all 
traces  of  food;  drained,  to  prevent  possible 
breeding  places  for  mosquitoes;  and  the  covers 
pressed  back  into  position  so  that  animals  will 
not  get  caught  in  the  cans. 

Ashes  should  be  stored  separately  from  other  waste. 

Use  covered  barrels  when  placing  waste  on  the  side- 
walks for  collection. 

Consult  the  local  laws  in  regard  to  the  collection  of 
ashes,  waste,  and  garbage. 

Washing  Kitchen  Dishes  and  Utensils 

Dishes: 

Wash  as  soon  as  through  using  them. 

If  this  is  not  possible,  soak  in  cold  water  all  dishes 
which  have  been  used  for  batters,  milk,  or  eggs. 

Soak  other  dishes  in  hot  water. 

Greasy  dishes  should  be  wiped  with  soft  paper. 

Never  put  grease  or  bits  of  food  into  dish  water  or 
into  the  sink. 

Use  a  dishcloth  and  clean  soapy  water. 

Wash  and  rinse  carefully. 

Wipe  with  clean  towels. 
Cooking  Utensils: 

Scrape. 

Remove  grease  with  soft  paper. 


142    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Put  washing  powder,  or  soda  and  cold  water  in  to  roast- 
ing and  baking  pans  and  stand  on  the  stove  to  boil. 

Wash  with  soap  and  water,  using  a  cloth. 

Rinse  with  hot  water. 

Dry  with  a  towel  and  stand  on  the  shelf  at  the  back 
of  the  stove. 

Never  put  away  any  utensils  until  perfectly  dry. 

Agateware: 

Scour  stains  with  sapolio  or  scouring  powder. 

Do  not  scrape  food  from  agateware. 

Soak  well  and  boil  if  necessary. 

Dry  with  a  towel.     If  the  towel  is  discolored  the 

utensil  is  not  clean. 
Aluminum: 

Use  mild  soap  and  hot  water. 

Do  not  use  soda,  soap  powder,  or  ammonia;  a  little 

weak  acid  will  brighten  aluminum. 
Boiling  with  fresh  water  will  soak  off  any  food. 
Be  careful  not  to  bend  or  dent  aluminum. 
Ironware: 
New  ironware  may  be  greased  with  mutton  tallow 

and  heated  slowly. 
If  very  rough  let  the  grease  remain  twenty-four 

hours,  boil  half  an  hour  in  a  soda  solution,  and 

grease  and  heat  again. 
Scour  ironware  with  coarse  friction  soap  or  Bath 

brick. 
Iron  muffin  pans  should  be  cleaned  with  a  damp 

cloth  and  only  washed  when  absolutely  necessary. 
Dry  ironware  in  the  open  oven  or  on  the  back  of  the 

stove. 
Tinware: 
If  new  tinware  is  greased  slightly  and  warmed  slowly 

without  burning,  it  will  not  rust. 


THE  KITCHEN  AND  KITCHEN  PANTRY    143 

Dry  tin  thoroughly  or  it  will  rust. 

Do  not  try  to  keep  tinware  bright,  it  wastes  time  and 

material;  keep  it  clean  and  dry. 
Woodenware: 

Wash  in  hot,  soapy  water. 
Rinse  in  clear,  hot  water. 
Wipe  with  a  dry  towel,  then  dry  in  the  sun  or  air. 

Fire  heat  is  apt  to  crack  wood. 
Scour  sink  shelves,  pastry  and   meat  boards,  and 

chopping    bowls    with    sapolio,    using    a    brush. 

Rinse  in  clear,  hot  water  and  dry. 
Soap  turns  wood  yellow. 
Bowls  which  retain  odor,  should  be  soaked  in  hot 

soda  water,  1  teaspoonful  soda  to  1  qt.  of  water. 
Teakettle: 

Empty  and  allow  it  to  dry  when  not  in  use. 
Wash  every  day. 
Keep  the  outside  polished  and  free  from  smoke  and 

grease. 

Tea  and  Coffee  Pots: 
Rinse  in  cold  water. 
Wash  in  hot  water. 
Scald,  dry,  and  leave  open. 
Egg  Beaters: 
Rinse,  clean,  dry,  and  hang  up  as  soon  as  through 

using. 
Never  put  an  egg  beater  to  soak  and  never  let  the 

cogs  get  wet. 
Bread  Box: 

Wash  twice  a  week  or  oftener. 
Empty  and  remove  all  crumbs;  wash  with  soap  and 

hot  water. 

Rinse  with  boiling  water. 
Dry  and  air  in  the  sun  if  possible. 


144   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Milk  Bottles: 
Rinse  at  once  with  cold  water  and  leave  filled  until 

ready  to  wash. 
Wash  in  hot  soapy  water,  drain  and  turn  sidewise  in 

a  pan  of  clear  scalding  water. 
Never  use  milk  bottles  for  any  other  purpose  than 

to  hold  milk. 
Steel  Knives: 

Wash,  scour  with  powdered  Bath  brick  or  scouring 

powder,   using  a  large  cork  or   a  cut  potato  to 

scour  with. 

Wash  again  and  dry  at  once. 
Precaution: 

In  all  scouring,  whether  of  woods  or  metals,  use  a 

damp,  not  a  wet,  cloth  or  scouring  utensil.     Too 

much  water  prevents  the  frictional  material  from 

taking  hold  and  the  work  is  worse  than  useless. 

Kitchen  Tables,  Shelves,  and  Floors 

Wooden  Tables: 
Use  hot  water,  sapolio,  or  scouring  powder,  a  brush, 

and  two  clean  cloths. 

Wipe  the  table  with  a  cloth  wet  in  clear  water. 
Rub  sapolio  on  the  brush  and  scour  with  the  grain 

of  the  wood. 

Rinse  with  the  clear  water. 
Wipe  with  the  dry  cloth. 

Zinc  Table: 

Use  Bath  brick  for  scouring,  brighten  with  weak  acid. 
Kerosene  cleans  zinc  well,  but  is  not  safe  when  food 
is  to  be  prepared  on  the  table. 

Kitchen  Closets: 

Remove  everything  from  the  shelves;  dust  and  cover 
Dust  the  shelves  with  a  damp  cloth. 


THE  KITCHEN  AND  KITCHEN  PANTRY    145 

If  the  shelves  are  unfinished,  scrub  as  for  the  kitchen 

table. 
For  finished  wood  use  mild  soap  and  rinse  and  dry 

quickly. 

Wash  empty  jars;  dry  perfectly. 
Wash  and  air  the  bread  box. 
Replace  the  contents  of  the  shelves  in  order  —  the 

articles  used  most  on  the  front  of  the  lowest 

shelves. 

Kitchen  Floors: 
Unpainted. 

Sweep  (using  a  hair  brush). 

Wipe  up  the  dust. 

Scrub  small  sections  at  a  time. 

Rinse  and  wipe  dry.' 

Change  the  water  often. 

Use  soda  or  soap  and  sand  for  grease  spots. 

Varnished  Floor  or  Linoleum: 
Sweep  (using  a  hah-  brush). 
Wipe  up  the  dust. 
Wash  small  sections  at  a  time,  using  little  water  and 

mild  soap;  rinse  and  wipe  dry. 
Linoleum  wears  better  if  varnished  when  new  and 

waxed  lightly  once  a  week  after  washing. 


CHAPTER   IX 
THE   DINING   ROOM,   PANTRY   AND   DISH   WASHING 

Care  of  Dining  Room  Pantry 

Equipment: 

Sinks  or  pans  for  washing  and  draining  dishes. 

Soap  shaker. 

Dishcloth  and  dish  mop  (if  the  worker  will  keep  it 
clean). 

Sink  cloth. 

Dish  scraper. 

Silver  cleaning  materials  —  brush  and  cloths. 

Trays  —  for  dishes. 

Small  garbage  pail. 

Keep  the  pantry  free  from  scraps  or  crumbs  of  food. 

Empty  and  wash  the  garbage  pail  after  each  meal. 

Arrange  the  dishes  so  that  those  used  most  fre- 
quently are  nearest  the  kitchen  slide  or  dining 
room  where  they  are  to  be  used.  Example: 
serving  dishes  which  must  go  to  the  kitchen  near 
the  kitchen  slide;  glasses,  etc.,  near  the  dining 
room  door. 

Keep  the  dishes  in  their  proper  places  on  the  shelves. 
Table  Linen: 

Keep  the  linen  in  orderly  piles,  all  of  a  pattern  and 
size  together. 

Doilies  may  be  arranged  in  sets  as  they  are  to  be 
placed  on  the  table,  but  otherwise  sizes  should  be 
sorted  and  kept  flat. 

Large  doilies  may  be  rolled,  but  should  not  be  folded 
or  rumpled. 


DINING  ROOM,  PANTRY,  DISH  WASHING     147 

Never  use  soiled  or  rumpled  doilies  on  the  table. 
Do  not  tuck  soiled  table  linen  into  a  drawer;  mice 

are  apt  to  find  it.     It  is  likely  to  be  forgotten 

until  needed  for  use. 
The  last  table  linen  washed  should  be  placed  at  the 

bottom  of  the  pile,  so  that  the  pieces  will  be  used 

in  turn  and  the  wear  will  be  even. 
Remove  fruit    stains   at    once   by    stretching    the 

stained  part   over  a  bowl  and   pouring  boiling 

water  through  it  from  a  height  of  eight  to  ten 

inches. 

Dish  Washing  (table  dishes) 
Object: 

To  clean,  dry,  and  polish. 

Order: 

(A)  Kitchen  utensils,  greasy  dishes,  silver  and  china, 

glass. 

(B)  Glass,    silver,    china,    greasy    dishes,    kitchen 

utensils. 

A  requires  more  water;    necessitates  four  changes. 
B,  the  water  is  changed  less  frequently  and  is  thus 
less  sanitary. 
Preparation: 

Grease  removed,   scraps  collected,   wipe  with  soft 
paper. 

To  save  Time: 

Pile  according  to  kind  (at  right  of  sink  if  possible). 

Stand  silver  in  cold  water,  kinds  separate. 

Arrange  in  order  to  be  washed. 

Have  plenty  of  hot  water  and  clean  towels. 
Utensils: 

Two  pans  (paper  or  fiber  pans  are  good). 

Wire  drainer  or  rack,  ROUND,  fits  pan  —  saves  hot 
water. 


148    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Soap-shaker. 

Dish  mop  (not  desirable  unless  the  worker  is  very 

particular  to  keep  it  clean). 
Two  dishcloths. 

Towels  which  absorb  water  and  do  not  lint. 
Deep  saucepan  for  silver. 

Materials: 

Soap  (mild)  or  ammonia  may  be  used  for  glass  and 

silver. 

Soap  powder  or  washing  soda. 
Hot  water  ad  libitum. 
Silver  polish,  metal  polish,  Bristol  brick. 
Dutch  Cleanser,  Bon  Ami,  or  Sapolio. 

Method: 
Fill  both  pans  with  hot  water;  add  soap  to  one,  leave 

the  other  clear. 

Arrange  the  dishes  in  piles  at  the  right  of  the  sink. 
Wash  each  piece  and  dip  in  the  pan  of  clear  water 

at  the  left  of  the  dishpan. 
Place  on  edge  in  the  drainer. 

When  the  drainer  is  full  place  it  over  the  second  pan. 
Rinse  the  dishes  with  very  hot  water.     (It  must  not 

be  boiling  hot  for  very  fine  china.) 
The  ideal  way  is  to  have  the  second  pan  large  enough 

so  that  when  the  drainer  is  placed  in  it  the  dishes 

are  submerged  for  a  moment  in  the  hot  water; 

then  the  drainer  is  raised  and  the  dishes  stand 

a  moment  to  dry. 
A  slight  polish,  with  a  clean  dish  towel,  is  all  that  is 

then  necessary  before  putting  them  away. 
Failing  the  ideal,  the  next  best  is  to  pour  the  hot 

water  slowly  over  the  dishes  as  they  stand  in  the 

drainer. 
If  dishes  can  be  packed  in  the  drainer  so  that  they 


DINING  ROOM,  PANTRY,  DISH  WASHING     149 

will  drain  dry  without  wiping,  it  is  a  desirable 
method  to  follow  —  it  saves  towels  and  work  and 
is  more  sanitary.  Cups  and  deep  dishes  must  be 
inverted  in  the  drainer  as  soon  as  they  are  scalded 
or  they  will  not  dry. 

Be  sure  all  towels  are  clean  and  dry. 

To  wipe  dishes  hold  them  in  the  left  hand  with  a 
clean  dry  towel  between.  Wipe  with  the  other 
end  of  the  towel. 

Never  let  the  hands  touch  the  food  side  of  a  dish 
when  wiping  or  putting  away. 

Glass: 

Wash  in  hot  water  and  dry  at  once  with  a  fresh  towel. 
Do  not  drain  or  rinse  if  you  wish  glass  to  sparkle. 
Do  not  use  strong  soaps. 

Cut  Glass: 

Wash  each  piece  separately  in  warm  water  with 
ammonia,  rinse  and  dry  at  once. 

Breakage  is  often  due  to  sudden  changes  of  tempera- 
ture. Place  the  dish  in  the  water  sidewise. 

Never  rinse  under  the  faucet. 

Knives: 

Hold  knives  in  the  hand  and  wash.  Expansion  and 
contraction  from  heat  and  water  cause  wooden 
handles  to  loosen  and  ivory  to  turn  yellow. 

Silver: 

Avoid  scratching  (mineral  soaps  and  scouring  powder) . 

Wash  kinds  SEPARATELY.  Hold  a  few  pieces  in  the 
hand  and  wash. 

Use  hot  soapy  water  and  rinse  with  boiling  water. 

Then  dry  and  polish  by  rubbing  with  the  towel. 
China: 

Rinse  out  liquids  with  cold  water. 

Wipe  greasy  plates  with  soft  paper. 


150    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Wash  in  moderately  hot  water  with  PLENTY  of  mild 

soap  (except  for  gold  band). 
Pile  in  a  rack.    Rinse  and  wipe. 

Cautions: 

Keep  the  water  hot  and  clean. 

Use  mild,  good  soap. 

Use  a  clean  dishcloth. 

Never  use  a  dishcloth  for  any  other  purpose  than 

washing  dishes. 

Keep  one  dishcloth  for  the  finer  dishes. 
Boil  the  dishcloths  frequently. 
Keep  the  dishcloths  white. 
Use  clean,  dry  towels. 
If  rinsing  water  is  hot  enough  there  will  be  less  need 

for  towels. 
Never  allow  the  hands  to  touch  glass,  silver,  or  china 

which  you  are  wiping  or  putting  away. 

To  Clean  Silver 

Wash  carefully  and  wipe  dry  from  scalding  water  and 
silver  will  not  require  frequent  polishing. 

Materials: 

Silver  paste,  powder,  or  soap. 
Water  or  alcohol  or  ammonia  water. 
Soft  cloths. 
Brushes. 

Method: 

Apply  the  cleanser,  using  a  soft  cloth. 
Use  a  brush  for  engraved  pieces. 
Rub  discolored  spots  especially. 
Wash  carefully  in  hot  soapy  water  scald  and  wipe  dry. 
Polish  with  a  soft  flannel  cloth. 


DINING  ROOM,  PANTRY,  DISH  WASHING     151 

Notes: 

Silver  is  brighter  if  wiped  directly  from  clean,  hot, 
slightly  soapy  water.  There  is  no  taste  of  soap. 

If  preferred  it  may  be  scalded  with  clear  water,  but 
it  will  not  be  so  bright. 

Silver  may  be  boiled  in  a  bright  aluminum  pan  or 
in  a  pan  with  several  small  pieces  of  zinc  in  it, 
or  in  a  special  silver  pan,  with  salt  and  soda. 
These  methods  clean  the  silver  but  do  not  polish 
it.  If  accustomed  to  polished  silver,  do  not  expect 
to  be  satisfied  with  the  appearance  of  silver  cleaned 
in  this  way. 

To  Wash  Dish  Towels 

Wash  the  dish  towels  at  least  once  a  day. 

Wet  in  cold  water. 

Rub  with  soap. 

Wash  in  hot  water. 

Use  a  small  rubbing  board. 

Rinse  well. 

Wring   dry,    stretch   smooth,    and  hang  evenly,  out 

of  doors  if  possible;  if  not,  on   a   rack  in  the  air 

and  light. 
Once  a  week  or  oftener  towels  should  be  boiled. 


CHAPTER  X 

THE   DINING   ROOM   AND   TABLE   SERVICE 

Care  of  the  Dining  Room 

Air  the  room. 

Dust  the  mantel  and  large  plain  surfaces  of  the 
furniture,  so  that  the  room  shall  not  appear  to  be 
dusty  and  uncared  for. 

After  breakfast  is  cleared  away  give  the  floor  a  thor- 
ough cleaning  and  when  the  dishes  are  done 
dust  the  room  carefully. 

After  each  meal  leave  the  rugs,  furniture,  and  floor 
free  from  crumbs,  the  furniture  in  place,  and  the 
shades  even. 

Table  Setting 

Dust  the  table  —  cover  with  a  silence  cloth  or  table 

pad. 
Put  on  the  tablecloth,  folds  up,  the  center  of  the 

cloth  in  the  center  of  the  table,  the  folds  straight 

with  the  table. 
If  possible  have  flowers,  a  fern,  or  a  plant  in  the 

exact  center  of  the  table. 
A  place  plate  may  be  laid  for  each  person,  always 

placing  them  opposite  each  other. 
The  place  plate  and  silver  are  called  a  cover. 
If  serving  is  done  by  the  host  or  hostess  they  may 

sit  at  the  sides  of  the  table. 
If  the  service  is  by  a  maid  the  host  or  hostess  can  see 

then-  guests  better  from  the  ends. 


THE  DINING  ROOM  AND  TABLE  SERVICE     153 

Silver: 

Lay  knives,  forks,  and  spoons,  for  each  person,  the 

ends  of  the  handles  J  to  1  inch  from  the  edge 

of  the  table,   the  number  corresponding  to  the 

courses  to  be  served. 

The  pieces  to  be  used  first  placed  on  the  outside. 
The  dessert  silver  may  come  with  the  dessert.     (The 

table  is  then  clear  when  the  cloth  is  crumbed.) 
Knives  should  be  laid  at  the  right  of  the  plate, 

the  sharp  edge  toward  the  plate. 
Spoons,   beside  the  knives,  with    the    soup    spoon 

outside. 
Butter  spreaders,  on  the  bread  and  butter  plate  or 

beside  the  spoons. 

Forks,  at  the  left  of  the  plate  —  tines  up. 
Dessert  silver  (a  spoon  and  fork)  may  be  laid  on 

the  dessert  plate  or  placed  at  the  right  of  the 

cover  when  the  dessert  is  served. 

Dishes  and  Linen: 
The  bread  and  butter  plate  should  be  placed  at  the 

end  of  the  fork. 
The  tumbler  at  the  right  of  the  knife  near  the  end 

of  the  blade. 

The  napkin  folded  at  the  left  of  the  forks. 
A  carving  cloth  may  be  placed  in  front  of  the  host  if 

the  carving  is  done  at  the  table. 
Salt  and  pepper  should  be  placed  where  they  are 

convenient  to  the  most  people. 

Serving  Dishes  and  Plates: 

Plates  and  serving  dishes  should  be  warmed  —  not 
too  hot. 

Plates  may  be  placed  in  a  pile  on  the  serving  table 
and  exchanged  as  the  carver  requires  them;  or, 
for  an  informal  service  without  a  maid,  they  may 


154    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

be  placed  in  a  pile  at  the  left  of  the  carver,  to 

be  filled  in  turn. 
If  vegetables  are  to  be  passed  by  the  maid,  serving 

spoons  should  be  in  readiness  on  the  side  table. 
If  vegetables  are  to  be  served  at  the  table,  serving 

spoons  should  be  placed  on  the  table  in  front  of 

the  person  who  is  to  serve  the  vegetables. 
The  carving  knife  and  fork  should  be  on  the  side 

table,  and  placed  at  the  right  and  left  of  the 

carver,  with  a  spoon  for  serving  dish  gravy,  when 

the  roast  is  placed.    The  knife  should  be  sharp- 
ened before  the  meal  is  announced. 
General  Rules: 
The  last  thing  before  announcing  a  meal,  fill  the  water 

glasses  |  full  and  refill  the  water  pitcher. 
Place  a  butter  ball  or  square  on  each  bread  and 

butter  plate  and  see  that  an  extra  supply  is  at 

hand. 
Be  sure  that  bread  is  cut  and  covered  to  keep  it  from 

drying. 

Serve  hot  food  on  hot  dishes,  cold  food  on  cold  dishes. 
Have  all  serving  dishes  warm  (if  desirable). 
Arrange  all  dishes  in  order  for  each  course. 
Have  crackers  ready  to  pass. 
Place  the  finger  bowls  on  the  dessert  plates  with 

doilies  and  fill  J  full  before  the  meal  is  announced. 
Arrange  a  small  serving  tray  with  a  doily  and  place 

it  on  the  serving  table. 
Use  this  tray  for  passing  sugar,  cream,  and  small 

dishes  and  for  removing  salt,  peppers,  and  extra 

silver  when  clearing  the  table. 
Have  ready  a  clean  serving  napkin  to  use  folded 

on  the  hand  under  hot  dishes  or  plates. 
Have  ready  a  folded  napkin  and  small  plate  for  use 

in  removing  the  crumbs  before  the  dessert  is  served. 


THE  DINING  ROOM  AND  TABLE  SERVICE     155 

Questions  to  ask  before  the  Meal  is  Announced: 

Does  the  table  need  anything — Butter,  water,  silver, 

bread,  dishes? 

Is  the  serving  table  perfectly  arranged? 
Is  there  plenty  of  room  on  the  serving  table  for  use 

in  emergency? 

Are  the  chairs  properly  placed? 
Are  the  doors  unnecessarily  open? 
Are  the  windows  right?    No  draughts?    Shades  right? 
Is  the  temperature  right? 
Are  the  plates  warm? 
Are  the  extra  dishes  ready? 
Are  the  serving  spoons  in  place? 
Are  the  candles  lighted  and  long  enough  to  burn 

through  the  meal? 

Table  Service 

These  rules  are  arranged  for  simple  table  service 
where  there  is  only  one  waitress,  who  is  also  chamber- 
maid. More  formal  service  is  frequently  indicated; 
but  is  not  desirable  where  many  people  are  to  be  served 
by  one  waitress. 

General  Rules: 
Work  noiselessly. 
Never  pile  dishes. 
Do  not  hurry. 

Have  a  sensible  reason  for  everything  you  do. 
Do  not  consult  the  hostess  except  in  great  emergency 

and  then  in  a  tone  inaudible  to  other  guests. 
Bring  in  serving  dishes,  then  food. 
Remove   the   food,   soiled   china  and  silver,   clean 

china  and  silver,  and  the  crumbs. 
Everything  relating  only  to  one  course  should  be 

removed  before  serving  another  course. 


156    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Dishes  which  admit  of  choice  should  be  passed  at 
the  left,  held  in  the  left  hand  and  low  enough 
so  that  the  guests  may  serve  themselves  easily. 

Dishes  which  do  not  admit  of  choice  should  be 
placed  from  the  right  with  the  right  hand.  Every- 
thing may  be  passed,  placed,  and  removed  from 
the  left,  except  that  drinks  which  are  to  be  kept 
at  the  right  side  of  the  plate  should  be  always 
placed  there. 

When  replacing  with  a  full  plate  remove  the  empty 
plate  with  the  left  hand  and  place  the  full  plate 
with  the  right. 
Waiting  on  Table: 

If  the  first  course  is  cold  it  may  be  on  the  table  when 
the  meal  is  announced  or  placed  after  the  family 
is  seated. 

Place  the  soup  plates  on  the  place  plates  from  the 
right,  holding  them  in  the  right  hand. 

Crackers  or  bread  may  be  placed  on  the  bread  and 
butter  plates  before  the  meal  is  announced.  If 
passed,  hold  the  plate  in  the  left  hand  and  pass 
to  left  of  each  guest. 

To  remove  plates,  go  to  the  left  of  the  guest,  take 
the  soup  plate  in  the  left  hand,  and  pass  to  the 
right;  go  to  the  next  guest  and  take  the  soup 
plate  with  the  left  hand  (or  take  the  soup  plate 
and  place  plate  in  the  left  hand  and  replace 
with  a  hot  serving  plate). 

Take  the  empty  plates  to  the  pantry  and  return  for 
more.  More  formal  service  requires  the  removal 
of  one  plate  at  a  tune  and  also  requires  more 
people  to  serve. 

Less  formal  service  allows  the  plates  to  be  placed 
on  a  side  table  and  removed  to  the  pantry  while 
the  next  course  is  being  eaten. 


THE  DINING  ROOM  AND  TABLE  SERVICE     157 

Bring  in  the  hot  plates  and  place  them  on  the  serving 

table. 

Bring  in  the  roast  and  place  in  front  of  the  host. 
Place  carving  knife  and  fork  at  the  right  and  left 

of  the  roast. 
Stand  at  the  left  and  exchange  the  carver's  place 

plate  for  a  hot  serving  plate. 
Go  to  the  pantry  for  the  vegetables  and  place  on  the 

serving  table. 

Take  a  hot  plate  from  the  pile  on  the  serving  table. 
Stand  at  the  left  of  the  host  and  exchange  the  hot 

plate  for  the  filled  one. 
Go  to  the  left  of  the  hostess  and  exchange  the  filled 

plate  for  the  cold  place  plate. 
Return  to  the  side  table  and  leave  the  place  plate; 

take  a  hot  plate  to  the  left  of  the  host  and  exchange 

for  the  filled  plate. 
If  the  hot  plates  are  placed  when  the  soup  plates 

are  removed  there  will  be  no  necessity  of  thought 

in  regard  to  the  removal  of  cold  place  plates  here; 

but  the  serving  plates  are  not  as  hot  as  when  placed 

in  this  way. 
Serve  the  hostess  first,  then  the  guest  at  the  host's 

right,  then  all  on  that  side  of  the  table,   then 

the  guest  at  the  left  of  the  host  and  all  on  that 

side. 
When  all  guests  are  served  to  meat,  take  the  potatoes 

or  other  starchy  vegetable  in  the  left  hand  (on 

a  folded  napkin),  place  a  serving  spoon  and  fork 

in  the  dish,  and  pass  to  each  guest  in  turn  at  the 

left. 

Repeat  with  the  second  vegetable.     Keep  the  vege- 
tables hot  until  ready  to  pass  them  the  second 

time. 
Gravies,  relishes,  etc.,  may  be  placed  on  the  table 


158    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

beside  the   hostess,  who   will   serve  herself   and 

pass  them  on  to  the  guests,  more  formal  service 

requires  that  these  be  passed  by  the  maid. 
Pass  the  vegetables  a  second  time. 
When  all  are  finished  remove  the  roast,  fold  the 

carving  cloth,  and  remove  it. 
Remove  the  plates  as  before,  replacing  with  salad 

plates  if  salad  is  to  be  served.    Place  serving 

spoon  and  fork  on  the  salad. 
Pass  the  salad  at  the  left  of  each  person. 
Pass  crackers  and  replenish  butter  and  water  where 

they  are  needed. 
When  all  are  finished,  remove  all  plates  as  before, 

also  taking  the  bread  and  butter  plates. 
Hold  a  tray  (with  a  doily  on  it)  in  the  left  hand  and 

place  on  it  all  silver  not  used,  salt  and  pepper,  and 

relishes. 

Avoid  all  NOISE. 
Clear  everything  from  the  table  except  the  glasses 

and  nuts  or  bon  bons  and  cloth. 
Brush  the  crumbs  into  a  small  plate  with  a  folded 

napkin. 
Place   the   dessert  plates    (with   the  finger  bowls, 

one-third   full,   on  doilies)    at  each   cover.    The 

silver  may  be  placed  at  the  right  or  may  be  laid 

on  the  plate  with  the  finger  bowl. 
Bring  in  the  dessert  and  place  before  the  hostess. 
Place  the  serving  spoon  and  fork. 
Stand  at  the  left  of  the  hostess;   replace  the  filled 

dessert  plate  with  an  empty  one. 
Go  to  the  guest  at  the  right  of  the  host  and  exchange 

the  filled  dessert  plate  for  the  empty  one. 
Return  to  the  hostess'  left  and  repeat  until  all  are 

served. 
Pass  cake  or  cookies. 


THE  DINING  ROOM  AND  TABLE  SERVICE     159 

Refill  the  water  glasses  —  handle  from  the  bottom, 

draw  to  the  edge  of  the  table  to  fill. 
The  coffee  may  be  served  in  the  dining  room  or  in 

the  living  room. 
Pass  the  cream  and  sugar  on  a  tray. 


CHAPTER  XI 

THE   LIVING   ROOM 

Daily  Care: 

Clean  the  hearth  and  lay  the  new  fire. 
To  lay  a  Fire  in  the  Fireplace: 

Remove  or  cover  any  loose  paper  or  ashes. 

Pack  the  fine  wood  ashes  at  the  back  under  the 
andirons. 

Arrange  charred  pieces  of  wood  from  the  last 
fire  at  the  back  and  brush  the  hearth  clean. 

Place  crumpled  paper  between  the  andirons. 

Lay  three  sticks  of  kindling  across  the  andirons 
and  three  pieces  across  those,  log  cabin 
fashion,  with  wide  spaces  between.  Put  a 
good  size  stick  of  wood  at  the  back  of  the 
kindling,  a  smaller  stick  in  front  of  that,  and 
a  third  stick  on  top.  Leave  spaces  between 
the  sticks  of  wood  for  the  air  and  smoke  to 


Put  away  magazines  and  newspapers  and  arrange 

tables,  music,  etc. 
Dust    large    polished    surfaces    early,    before    the 

family  are  down. 
Later  dust  the  floor  (use  a  long-handled  covered 

bristle  brush). 

Clean  the  rugs  (with  a  carpet  sweeper). 
When    the  dust   has    settled    dust    the   furniture 

thoroughly. 
Give  special  attention  to  the  desk. 

Refill  the  inkwell,  when  necessary. 


THE  LIVING  ROOM  161 

Dust  the  blotter;  change  it  if  ink  spotted. 
Dust  the  pencil  tray. 

Leave  papers  undisturbed  or  in  neat  piles. 
Care  for  the  reading  lamp: 
Dust  the  shade  and  vase. 

"Remove  the  lamp  to  the  housemaid's  closet  or 
kitchen;   protect  the  table  with  several  layers 
of  newspaper. 
Wash  the  chimney  as  if  it  were  table  glass,  wipe 

perfectly  dry  and  polish. 
Fill  the  tank  to  f  of  an  inch  from  the  top. 
Turn  the  wick  high  and  rub  off  the  charred  edge. 
Light,  to  be  sure  it  has  an  even  edge.     Do  not 

cut  the  wick  unless  absolutely  necessary. 
Wipe  the  burner  and  tank  carefully  to  remove 
every  particle  of  oil  and  any  charred  bits  of 
wick. 
Do  not  replace  the  tank  in  the  vase  until  you 

are  sure  there  is  no  oil  on  the  outside. 
Throw  away  the  faded  flowers. 
Change  the  water,  on  others. 
Empty  the  waste  baskets. 
Straighten  the  rugs,  shake  and  puff  the  cushions. 
Put  chairs  in  their  proper  places. 
If  the  people  who  use  a  room  always  leave  it  in 
order  work  will  be  simplified. 

Program  for  Thoroughly  Cleaning  a  Room  Without 
a  Vacuum  Cleaner 

Roll  and  remove  the  rugs.  Clean  them  outside 
the  house  if  possible. 

Clean  and  roll  the  shades.  Brush  the  curtains  and 
remove  them  or  fold  into  bags  kept  for  the  purpose. 

Dust  and  remove  small  furniture,  fireplace  fittings, 
and  all  hangings. 


162    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Dust  and  cover  heavy  furniture  (brush  upholstery). 

Dust  and  cover  pictures,  mirrors,  etc. 

Dust  the  floor  or  carpet  (open  the  windows  if  the 
dust  will  draw  out). 

Dust  windowsashes  and  frames,  door  frames,  etc. 
(use  a  soft  brush  for  corners). 

Cover  a  broom  or  brush  and  brush  the  walls  and 
ceiling. 

Brush  the  baseboards  or  rub  them  with  an  oiled 
cloth. 

Sweep  the  floor  with  a  brush  covered  with  a  slightly 
oiled  or  dampened  cloth.  If  the  floor  can  be  wiped 
with  a  dampened  or  kerosene  cloth  it  improves  it. 

If  there  is  a  carpet  on  the  floor  sweep  well  with  a 
carpet  sweeper  (use  a  whisk  broom  in  the  corners). 

Let  the  dust  settle  and 
(a)  Clean  the  rugs. 
(6)  Wash  the  windows. 

(c)  Clean  the  andirons  and  fender. 

(d)  Wash  ornaments  and  globes  of  lighting  fixtures. 
Dust  the  woodwork. 

Clean  spots  on  paint  or  woodwork  and  wash  the 
hearth  of  the  fireplace. 

Wipe  the  carpet  or  large  rug  with  cloth  wrung  from 
water  and  ammonia. 

Replace  rugs,  hangings,  and  small  furniture. 

Remove  cloths  from  furniture  and  polish  the  wood- 
work. 

Draw  the  shades  even;  close  and  lock  the  windows. 

Clean  and  dry  all  cloths  and  utensils  and  put  every- 
thing in  its  proper  place. 

To  Clean  a  Room  With  a  Vacuum  Cleaner 

Clean  and  roll  small  rugs. 
Clean  and  roll  the  window  shades. 


THE  LIVING  ROOM  163 

Clean  the  wall  surfaces  (if  there  is  no  attachment 
for  the  purpose,  use  a  covered  brush  as  above). 

Clean  all  upholstery  and  fabrics  with  special  attach- 
ment. 

Clean  the  large  rug. 

Dust  or  wash  all  bric-a-brac  and  the  globes  of 
lighting  fixtures. 

Dust  all  of  the  woodwork  with  an  oiled  or  dampened 
cloth. 

Wipe  the  floors  with  oiled  or  dampened  cloth. 

Wipe  the  rugs  with  a  cloth  wrung  from  ammonia 
water. 

Wash  the  windows. 

Clean  spots  on  paint  and  woodwork  and  wash  the 
hearth. 

Put  the  room  in  order. 

Clean  and  dry  all  cloths  and  utensils  and  put  them 
in  their  proper  places. 

Notes 

If  the  room  has  a  fireplace,  clean  and  brush  the 
the  hearth  before  the  room  is  swept.  Never  brush 
dust  into  a  fireplace.  Wash  the  hearth  later. 

If  there  are  registers  raise  them  before  sweeping, 
brush  on  a  large  paper,  and  wipe  the  pipe  below.  Cover 
the  opening  with  newspaper  and  replace  the  register 
upside  down.  Remove  the  paper  when  the  room  is 
clean. 

If  there  are  radiators,  clean  with  a  radiator  brush 
and  dust  with  an  oiled  cloth. 

Rugs  and  draperies  should  be  hung  over  lines  out 
of  doors,  or  laid  flat,  and  brushed  well  on  each  side. 
A  light  beater  may  be  used  on  very  firm  heavy  rugs  but 
never  a  heavy  beater.  Do  not  shake  nice  rugs;  it  snaps 
them  and  breaks  the  edges. 


164    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Upholstered  furniture  should  be  well  brushed,  whipped 
occasionally  in  the  open  air,  and  then  brushed  vigor- 
ously. 

To  Clean  Furniture 

1.  Highly  Polished  Surfaces,  Piano  or  Desk: 

Utensils  and  materials  - 

Provide  oil   (boiled  linseed),   2  basins,   ivory 

soap,  warm  water,  soft  cloths,  soft  brush. 
Method: 
Examine  for  breaks  in  finish. 

Cover  cracks  with  oil;  soak  five  or  ten  minutes. 
Rub  off  excess  of  oil. 
Wash  a  SMALL  portion  at  a  time. 
Moisten  a  cloth  —  rub  on  ivory  soap. 
Use  circular  motion. 
Rub  hard  and  briskly. 

Rinse  with  clean  water  and  a  clean  cloth. 
Rub  at  once  with  a  DRY  cloth,  until  abso- 
lutely dry. 

Repeat  till  the  whole  surface  is  cleaned,  then 
polish  the  whole  surface. 

2.  Spots: 

Finger  marks  —  use  warm  water,  a  little  soap, 

whiting  for  friction. 
Pencils  mark  —  erase  with  a  rubber.     Use  bread 

crust  for  wall  paper. 

Match  scratches  —  soft  friction,  whiting  or  salt. 
Fly  specks  —  soapy  water. 
Grease  —  absorb  quickly  with  starch,  soft  cloth, 

or  blotter.     Wash  with  weak  ammonia  water. 
Alkali  —  use  oil  at  once. 

3.  Stains  on  Wood: 

Alcohol  dissolves  shellac.    Use  oil  (sweet  oil)  at 
once. 


THE  LIVING  ROOM  165 

Heat,  —  rub  in  linseed  oil  and  polish. 
Ink,  —  dissolve  if  possible. 

Absorb  with  blotter. 

Use  oxalic  acid  on  unfinished  wood. 

Scrape  if  dry. 

Soak  from  finished  wood. 

Rub  with  turpentine  cloth,  polish. 

To  Polish  Furniture 
Use: 

Equal  parts  of  linseed  oil  and  turpentine. 
Method: 

Rub  on  all  the  wood  will  absorb. 
Rub  off  surplus  with  a  clean  cloth. 
Rub  DRY  and  polish  with  a  chamois  or  a  soft  woolen 

cloth  without  lint. 
Test  for  dryness,  —  clean  dry  finger  leaves  no  track. 

To  Clean  Copper  and  Brass 

Materials: 

Acids,  vinegar,  oxalic  acid,  butter,  milk,  lemon,  etc. 

Whiting. 

Rottenstone  and  sweet  oil. 

Commercial  pastes. 
Methods: 

1.  Clean  with  acid,  follow  by  rubbing  with  whiting, 

wash  carefully  and  dry.  This  gives  a  light 
finish,  is  quickly  done;  but  all  the  acid  must 
be  removed  or  the  metal  will  be  quickly  cor- 
roded again. 

2.  Moisten  rottenstone  with  sweet  oil,  apply  with 

a  soft  cloth,  and  rub  vigorously.  Polish  with 
flannel  or  chamois.  Rub  with  dry  whiting 
or  tripoli.  This  gives  a  richer  deeper  finish 
than  when  acid  is  used. 


166    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Nickel: 

Clean  with  silver  paste  or  whiting  and  alcohol. 
Wash  always  in  hot,  soapy  water  and  dry  at  once. 
Do  not  let  nickel  stand  when  steam  can  condense 
on  it. 


CHAPTER  XII 
THE   CHAMBERS   AND   BED   MAKING 

Chamber  Work 

Aim: 

Health;   cleanliness  of  air  and  clothing. 
Comfort  of  occupant,  obtained  by — 

1.  Circulation  of  ah-  in  room. 

2.  Sunlight. 

3.  Airing  of  bed. 

4.  Sanitary  utensils. 

5.  Removal  of  waste. 

6.  Care  of  utensils. 

Methods: 

1.  To  ah*  the  room. 

Open  the  windows  top  and  bottom. 
Open  doors  for  cross  ventilation  (heat  down- 
stairs to  be  considered). 
Open  the  closet  door. 
Time — as  soon  as  possible,  as  long  as  possible. 

2.  To  obtain  sunlight: 

Leave  the  shades  high  in  the  windows. 

(It  is  desirable  that  all  the  shades  on  one 
floor  should  be  raised  to  the  same  height, 
so  that  the  house  looks  well  from  the 
outside.  The  windows  of  bedrooms  should 
not  be  covered  by  heavy  curtains  or  closely 
drawn  shades.) 

3.  To  air  the  bed. 

Consider  time,  service,  number  of  beds. 


168    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

(a)   Ideal.    Remove  all  clothing  separately. 

Place  on  chairs. 

Do  not  allow  them  to  touch  the  floor. 

Run  the  hands  inside  the  pillowcases. 

Stand  the  pillow  on  end. 

Lift  the  mattress  and  prop  (free  circula- 
tion of  air). 

Turn  the  mattress  each  day. 
(6)    Turn   back   all    the    clothing    separately 
over  the  footboard  and  a  chair. 

Lift  the  edge  of  the  mattress  and  prop. 

Shake  the  pillow  and  stand  it  by  the 
window. 

Turn  the  mattress  often. 

4.  Sanitary  utensils: 

Beds   without    cracks    and   with    few    or   no 

ridges. 

Smooth,  varnished  inside  finish  of  commode. 
Uncracked  surface  of  crockery. 

5.  Removal  of  waste: 

Early  attention,  before  the  room  is  aired  if 

possible. 
Utensils  for  cleaning: 

Two  pails,  one  for  waste,  one  for  water. 

Brush. 

Three  cloths,  cleaning,  drying. 

Soap,  ammonia. 

Utensils  for  sweeping  and  dusting. 
Method,  important. 

Empty  the  toilet  utensils,  waste  water  first, 
then  toilet  water. 

Rinse  with  cold  water. 

Wash  thoroughly  with  soap  and  hot  water, 
scouring  when  necessary. 

Dry. 


THE  CHAMBERS  AND  BED  MAKING      169 
Clean  the  covers. 

USE    SEPARATE   CLOTHS   FOR   EACH   KIND    OF 
UTENSIL — NOT   TOWELS    OR   FACE    CLOTHS 

6.   Care  of  utensils: 

Order  —  cleanest  first. 

Drinking    water   pitcher    and    glass,    tooth 
brush  mug  and  holder,  large  water  pitcher, 
soap  dish,  bowl,  jars  and  covers. 
Care  — 

Water    pitcher  —  empty,    wash    and    refill 
every  day  or  as  often  as  time  and  service 
allow. 
Jars  — 

Protect    floors    under  jars  when  emptying 
and  cleaning,  wash  carefully,  rinse  and  dry 
the  outside,  scouring  as  often  as  time  and 
service  allow.    Watch  inside  finish  for  cracks. 
Leave  covers  off  or  on  —  not  ajar  (breakage). 
Daily  Care  of  Bedrooms: 
Order  of  work: 

Open  beds  —  dispose  of  waste  —  air  room  —  clean 
utensils  —  put  away  everything  which  is  out  of 
place  —  make    beds  —  let    dust    settle  —  dust 
(according  to  time  and  service  available). 
Arrange  the  room  — 
All  articles  in  exact  order. 
Consider  preference  of  occupant. 
Each  day  in  the  same  way. 
Do  not  change  arrangement  of  furniture  without 

consulting  or  explaining  to  occupant. 
Leave  windows  open,  or  closed  and  locked. 
Straighten  the  rugs. 
Adjust  shades  and  curtains. 
See  that  pictures  hang  evenly. 
See  that  match  boxes  are  full. 


170    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

See  that  towels  are  in  place. 
Close  the  closet  door,  bureau  drawers,  and  all 
boxes. 

Bed  Making 
Mattress: 

Cover  under  side  to  protect  it  from  the  springs. 
Box  cover  efficient;  hard  to  launder  and  put  on. 
Straight  covers,  tied  at  the  ends  and  side,  easy  to 

launder,  easily  fitted. 
Sheets: 

Size  —  length  of  mattress  plus  twice  its  depth  plus  \ 

yard  to  1  yard,  plus  hems  and  shrinkage. 
108  inches  none  too  long. 
Hem  alike   top   and  bottom,   wear   more   evenly, 

confusing. 
Hems  wider  at  top  than  bottom,  uneven  wear,  more 

hygienic. 
Blankets: 

Single  preferable,  wear  better,  ease  in  handling  and 
laundering. 

To  Make  Beds 

Method: 

Turn  the  mattress  end  for  end  one  day  and  over  side- 
wise  the  next. 

Straighten  the  mattress. 

Spread  with  pad  (warmth  and  comfort). 

Spread  the  bottom  sheet. 

Center  of  sheet  in  the  center  of  the  bed. 

Fold  under  the  mattress  at  the  head. 

Stretch  and  tuck  way  under  at  the  foot  of  the  bed. 

Stretch  at  the  sides  and  make  square  corners  at  the 
top  and  bottom. 

Tuck  in  the  sides,  stretching  tight. 

Do  not  draw  the  weave  out  of  a  straight  line. 


THE  CHAMBERS  AND  BED  MAKING      171 

Spread  the  top  sheet  with  the  hem  a  few  inches  above 

the  top  of  the  mattress. 
Tuck  at  the  foot,  way  under  the  mattress. 
Blankets: 

Spread  separately,  top  9  inches  from  the  top  of  mat- 
tress. 

Tuck  in  at  the  foot. 
Make  square  corners  at  the  foot  with  the  top  sheet 

and  all  the  blankets. 
Turn  down  the  top  sheet  to  protect  the  tops  of  the 

blankets. 

Stretch  and  tuck  under  the  sides. 
If  the  blankets  are  double  place  the  fold  at  the  foot. 
A  thin  cover  over  the  blankets  keeps  them  clean  at 

night.     (A  short  sheet  makes  a  good  cover.) 
Spread: 

Place  evenly  on  the  bed. 

Arrange  the  foot  and  sides  according  to  the  style  of 

bed  and  spread. 

STRETCH  smooth;  do  not  pat  or  smooth  with  hands. 
Diagonal  corners  may  be  made  at  the  foot. 
Pillows: 

Place  in  the  covers  with  the  corners  even. 
Never  hold  a  pillow  in  the  teeth  or  under  the  chin. 
Hold  on  the  knee. 

Press  the  pillow  round  or  flat  as  preferred. 
If  flat,  press  on  a  table  and  stand  as  near  upright  as 

possible,  with  the  SEAM  HIDDEN  at  the  bottom. 
Extra  Cover: 
Fold  plainly  at  foot  of  the  bed. 

To  Prepare  a  Bed  for  the  Night 

This  must  be  done  nicely  or  the  room  has  a  very 
unattractive  appearance. 


172    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Remove  the  pillows  and  spread. 

Fold  the  spread  in  the  creases  and  put  aside  in  a 

clean  place. 
Turn  the  clothes  back  to  the  middle  of  the  bed 

from  the  corner  and  turn  the  corner  underneath 

again,  or  turn  down  the  sheet  and  blanket  evenly 

about  a  foot  below  the  pillows  and  clear  across 

the  bed. 

Untuck  the  clothes  halfway  down. 
Replace  pillows  flat  and  smooth. 
Arrange  the  extra  cover  on  the  foot  of  the  bed, 

folded  accordion  fashion,  so  that  the  loose  edge 

at  the  top  can  easily  be  pulled  up  on  to  the  bed 

at  any  time  in  the  night. 
Fold  the  nightdress  and  wrapper  on  the  foot  of  the 

bed;  place  the  slippers  on  the  floor  by  the  side 

of  the  bed. 
If  the  washstand  has  been  used,  make  it  neat  again; 

empty  the  jars  and  refill  the  pitcher. 
Draw  the  shades. 

Guest  Room 

•  .    ,  *m 

Conveniences  for  the  Guest  Room: 
Pins. 

Sewing  materials. 
Night  light. 

Table  at  the  head  of  the  bed. 
Books,  stationery,  ink  and  pens. 
Waste  paper  basket. 
Trunk  rack. 

Closet: 

Handkerchief  bag. 
Clothes  bag. 
Rack  for  shoes. 


THE  CHAMBERS  AND  BED  MAKING       173 

Coat  hangers. 
Wrapper. 

Attentions  to  Guest: 
Fresh  flowers. 
Fire  laid. 

Bureau  drawers  empty. 
Closets  empty. 

All  personal  articles  removed. 
Bed  opened. 

COLD  drinking  water  at  night  (covered). 
Gas  lighted  before  bed  time. 
Fire  lighted  in  A.M. 
Fresh  (hot)  water  in  A.M. 

Problems  for  Consideration  if  Time  or  Service 
are  Lacking 

How  much  time  does  chamber  work  take? 

One  room? 

Whole  house? 

Difference  in  time  to  make  single  or  double  beds? 

Difference  in  time  if  clothes  are  taken  off  the  bed 
or  left  tucked  in  at  the  foot? 

Extra  time  for  opening  beds  at  night? 

Extra  time  for  folding  quilt  at  foot? 

Consider  time,  strength,  and  sanitation. 

Which  process  may  be  eliminated  if  time  and  strength 
forbid  the  ideal,  and  yet  keep  methods  sanitary? 

Balance  sanitation  with  overtaxed  strength,  with 
overfull  hours. 

What  shall  you  omit? 

Remember  speeding  is  impossible  for  prolonged  work. 

One  bed  may  be  made  in  four  minutes  when  twenty 
minutes  would  be  long  enough  for  five  beds. 

The  time  allowed  should  be  for  continuous,  steady 
work  —  no  hurry,  no  lagging. 


CHAPTER  XIII 

THE  BATHROOM  AND   STORAGE   CLOSETS 

Care  of  the  Bathroom 

Daily: 

Wash  and  dry  all  fixtures,  tumblers,  etc. 
Wash  and  dry  the  soapdishes,  rinse  the  soap. 
Dust  the  floor,  woodwork,  and  shelves. 
Straighten  the  towels  and  washcloths. 
Replenish  toilet  paper  before  it  is  necessary. 
Change  towels  at  regular  times  or  when  there  is 

special  need. 

Put  in  clean  towels  before  removing  the  soiled  ones; 
then  if  they  are  forgotten  no  one  is  inconvenienced. 

Weekly  or  oftener: 
Wash  and  scour  all  fixtures. 
Give  special  attention  to  the  chain  and  stopper  of  the 

bowl  and  tub. 

Flush  and  clean  the  overflow  pipes. 
Use  potash  or  sal  soda  solution  in  the  toilet,  tub,  and 

bowl.     (See  note,  page  213.) 
Polish  the  nickel  fixtures. 

To  Clean  Bath-Room  Fixtures 

Porcelain  tub  and  bowl:  not  a  natural  surface, 
avoid  scratching,  chipping,  cracking,  sudden  sharp 
changes  of  temperature. 

Materials: 

Naphtha  soap,  ivory  soap,  bon  ami,  whiting  (insolu- 
ble, rinse  pipes  well). 


THE  BATHROOM  AND  STORAGE  CLOSETS    175 

Kerosene,  bicarbonate  of  soda. 
For  yellow  stains  hydrochloric  acid. 

Method: 

Use  little  water. 
Rub  naphtha  soap  on  a  cleaning  cloth  (try  kerosene 

if  naphtha  soap  proves  ineffective) . 
Scrub  the  inside  of  the  tub,  especially  the  water  line. 
Rinse  and  dry. 
Polish  the  fixtures  with  whiting  or  bon  ami. 

Toilet 

Materials: 

Bag  and  curved  brush  or  tongs  and  soap  paper, 
scouring  powder,  soap  powder,  hydrochloric 
acid  for  yellow  stains,  commercial  cleaners  are 
frequently  good.  Sulpho  naphthol  or  lysol. 

Precautions: 

Scald  bag  and  brush  or  tongs  after  use.  Dry  in 
the  sunshine.  Be  careful  not  to  burn  the  hands 
with  hydrochloric  acid. 

Process: 

Flush  the  bowl.  Add  strong  soap  powder  solution. 
Stand  ten  to  twenty  minutes.  Scour  and  scrub 
with  the  brush.  Wash  with  suds  and  flush. 
Wash  inside  and  out  with  hot  suds  and  a  cloth. 
Use  hydrochloric  acid  for  stains  in  the  bottom  of 
the  toilet.  Dip  out  the  water  and  rub  the  stains 
with  a  cloth  wet  with  scouring  powder  and  hydro- 
chloric acid.  Flush  carefully.  Put  sulpho  naphthol 
in  the  bowl  and  stand.  Clean  and  oil  the  handle  of 
the  flush.  Wipe  all  woodwork  with  a  cloth  with 
sulpho  naphthol.  Dry  thoroughly  and  oil.  Dry 
the  bowl  outside.  Flush.  (The  sulpho  naphthol 
may  not  disinfect,  but  it  does  insure  a  fresh  odor.) 


176    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Plumbing.     Personal  Responsibility 

1.  No   refuse   not   easily   soluble    should    reach    the 

pipes;  this  includes  hair,  lint,  flowers,  rags, 
matches,  newspapers,  and  any  other  solids  not 
easily  divided  by  water. 

2.  Careful,  complete  flushing  of  the  toilet;  this  should 

be  not  only  an  automatic  act,  but  with  assur- 
ance of  completion.  Flushing  before  use  wets 
the  sides  of  the  hopper  and  helps  in  the  complete 
removal  of  solid  material. 

3.  Clear  water  rinsing  of  all  bowls  after  use;  leaves  the 

trap  free  from  soiled  water  and  prevents  the 
odor  of  stale  soap. 

4.  No  grease  allowed  to  reach  any  pipes. 

Storage  Closets 

Housemaid's  Closet: 

Should  contain  only  cleaning  materials  and  utensils. 
Utensils  should  be  clean  and  dry  when  put  away. 
Brooms  and  brushes  should  hang  by  the  handle. 
Waxed  or  oiled  cloths  should  be  shut  in  tight  tin 

boxes. 
Keep  turpentine,  kerosene,  naphtha  and  other  liquids 

in  tightly  stoppered  bottles. 
Bottles  labeled  and  kept  clean. 
Soap  and  powders  kept  in  dishes  or  jars. 
Waste  paper  should  be  emptied  into  the  paper  can, 

never  left  in  the  closet. 
Carpet  sweepers  cleaned,  vacuum  cleaners  cleaned 

and  kept  in  the  same  closet  with  the  attachments. 

Food  Storage: 

Vegetable  bins  or  boxes,  sugar  and  flour  barrels, 
raised  from  the  floor;  preferably  on  swinging 
bases  (easily  cleaned,  easily  reached). 


THE  BATHROOM  AND  STORAGE  CLOSETS     177 

Dry  groceries  stored  in  glass  jars,  crackers  in  tin  cans. 

Nothing  open  or  left  about  for  mice. 

Nothing  but  food  materials  kept  on  food  shelves. 

Everything  possible  labeled  plainly. 

Dry  foods  should  be  kept  dry  and  covered. 

Moist  foods  should  not  be  stored  unless  canned  or 

bottled. 
Linen  Closets: 

Linen  should  be  piled  on  shelves  with  all  edges  even. 

Articles  of  one  kind  and  quality  kept  together. 

Articles  of  the  same  group  near  each  other;  example: 
sheets,  pillowcases,  mattress  covers,  mattress  pads, 
spreads,  and  bureau  covers,  are  all  used  to- 
gether and  should  be  grouped  on  near-by  shelves. 
Face  towels,  washcloths,  and  bath  towels  should 
be  grouped  together. 

When  returned  from  the  laundry  linen  should  be 
examined  for  necessary  repairs  and  breaks  should 
be  mended  before  the  linen  is  put  away. 

Clean  linen  should  be  put  at  the  bottom  of  the  piles 
to  insure  even  wear. 

If  bed  linen  is  marked  with  the  date  when  it  is  put 
into  use,  it  is  easier  to  judge  whether  it  is  wearing 
satisfactorily. 

The  shelves  of  a  linen  closet  should  be  cleaned  and 
wiped  with  turpentine  occasionally.  (Keep  fire 
or  lighted  lamps  away  from  turpentine.) 

If  blankets  are  stored  with  linen,  they  should  be 
perfectly  clean,  wrapped  in  paper,  inclosed  in 
cotton  bags,  and  marked  plainly. 

Extra  comforters  and  down  puffs  should  be  cleaned 
and  stored  in  chests  or  drawers  in  cotton  bags. 
Clothes  Closets: 

A  pole  through  the  center  of  the  closet  is  preferable 
to  side  hooks. 


178    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Put  all  clothing  on  hangers. 

Fine  materials  should  be  covered  with  protecting 

bags  to  keep  out  dust. 
Woolen  clothes  not  in  constant  use  should  be  cleaned 

and  tied  up  in  cotton  bags. 
Hang  the  same  kind  of  clothing  together. 
Don't  hang  colored  street  clothes  next  to  delicate 

house  gowns;  protect  the  latter  with  covers. 
Street  clothes  should  be  brushed  before  hanging  in 

the  closet. 

Waists  or  coats  should  be  aired  before  hanging. 
Nothing   damp   should   ever  be   put  in  a   clothes 

closet. 

Soiled  clothes  removed  as  soon  as  possible. 
Shoes,  etc.,  kept  on  a  rack  or  in  a  shoe  bag. 
Hats  kept  in  boxes  on  shelves. 
The  floors  should  be  swept  when  the  adjoining  room 

is  cleaned. 

Clothes  Storage: 
Everything  cleaned,  wrapped  hi  newspaper,  put  in 

boxes  or  bags,  plainly  labeled. 
A  closet  directory  in  card  catalogue  form  is  an  easy 

way  to  find  articles  put  away  for  a  season. 
When   cleaning   wipe   all   floors   and   shelves  with 

turpentine.     (Keep    fire    or    flame    away    from 

turpentine.) 

China  Closets: 
Arrange  the  finest  china  and  glass  ware  on  the  highest 

shelves. 

Cut  glass  should  not  be  piled. 
Tall  articles  never  placed  in  front  of  lower  ones. 
Pile  securely  or  not  at  all. 
Protect  finest  plates  from  each  other  with  circles  of 

Canton  flannel. 


THE  BATHROOM  AND  STORAGE  CLOSETS    179 

Keep  large  silver  pieces  in  colored  Canton  flannel 
bags. 

Medicine  Closets: 
Place  medicines  oftenest  used  on  the  front  of  the 

shelves. 

Those  seldom  used,  at  the  back. 
Tie  toy  bells  on  the  necks  of  bottles  of  poison  and 

place  them  on  the  top  shelf. 

If  children  can  reach  them  remove  to  a  locked  cup- 
board. 
Make  a  list  of  the  contents  of  the  closet,  giving  the 

use  (and  antidote  if  poison),  and  fasten  to  the 

inside  of  the  door. 
Empty  bottles  of  special  medicine  when  the  need  for 

their  use  is  over. 
Do  not  keep  drugs  over  a  year  unless  sure  they  do 

not  deteriorate. 

Wash  and  put  away  empty  bottles. 
Keep  a  small  supply  of  corks  of  assorted  sizes  and 

a  small  corkscrew  in  the  closet. 

Sewing  Closet: 

A  sewing  closet  should  have  at  least  three  drawers 

and  four  shelves;  more  if  possible. 
Arrange  the  work  basket  and  extra  sewing  supplies 

on  the  broad  shelf  on  top  of  the  drawers. 
Mending  on  the  shelf  above. 
Partly  finished  and  new  work  on  the  next  shelf. 
Fold  all  patterns  nicely  and  file  in  a  pasteboard  letter 

file  on  the  supply  shelf. 
Use  the  top  drawer  for  new  materials. 
The  middle  drawer  for  white  pieces,   the  bottom 

drawer  for  colored  pieces,  of  materials  still  in  use 

or  usable. 
Keep  the  pieces  well  sorted. 


180    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

A  fourth  drawer  for  woolen  and  silk  pieces  is  a  great 

convenience. 

Watch  woolen  pieces  for  moths. 
A  supply  bag  with  small  pockets,  or  a  piece  bag,  may 

be  fastened  to  the  inside  of  the  door,  if  shelf  or 

drawer  room  is  lacking. 
A  sewing  closet  should  be  kept  in  order  from  day  to 

day. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

GENERAL   CLEANING  — SWEEPING,   DUSTING 
Cleaning 

Cleaning  is  the  removal  of  dirt  —  not  changing  its 
place. 
Sources  of  Dirt: 

Cellar  —  poorly  ventilated,  furnace  dust. 

Kitchen  —  steam,  greasy  vapors,  dust  from  fuel. 

Bathroom  —  steam. 

Laundry  —  steam. 

Bedrooms  —  dust  from  clothing,  fluff  from  clothing 

and  bedding. 
Finger  marks. 
Handling. 
Clothing. 
Street  sand  —  on  shoes  and  skirts,  or  blown  in  by 

the  wind. 

Removal  must  be  without  injury  to  surfaces. 
Methods  of  Removal: 

Sweeping,  —  removal  of  loose,  coarse  dirt,  litter, 

and  sand. 

Dusting,  —  removal  of  fine  dirt,  called  dust. 
"  Cleaning," — removal    of    dirt   which    has    been 
moist  and  dried;  example,  spots  or  dust  streaks 
on  paint. 

Sweeping 

To  partially  prevent  the  need  for  sweeping: 
Remove  dirt  from  the  shoes  and  skirts  outside  of 
the  house. 


182   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Eliminate  fabrics  (fluff). 
Pick  up  litter. 

Purpose: 

To  gather  and  remove  all  coarse  dirt  and  as  much 
dust  as  possible. 

Aim: 

To  accomplish  with  as  little  distribution  of  dust  as 
possible. 

Choice,  Care,  and  Use  of  Utensils  for  Sweeping 

Clean  all  utensils  before  putting  them  away. 
Long-handled  Bristle  Brush: 

Buy  good  quality,  firm  tufts  of  bristles. 

Expensive  first  cost,  but  wears  well. 

Takes  up  more  dust  and  its  use  is  more  sanitary 

than  a  broom. 

Push  away  from  the  sweeper. 
Use  both  sides  of  the  brush  evenly.     (The  handle 

should  change  sides.) 
Always  hang  free  from  the  floor. 

Short-handled  Bristle  Brush: 

Choose  as  for  other  bristle  brushes. 
Always  hang  by  handle. 
Clean  the  bristles  thoroughly  after  use. 
To  clean  Bristle  Brushes: 

Shake  out  the  dust,  pick  off  hairs,  lint,  threads,  etc. 
Wash  occasionally  in  warm  ammonia  water  and 
rinse  in  clear  cold  water. 

Dustpan: 
Long  or  short  handled.    The  edge  should  be  sharp, 

straight,  and  thin. 
Long-handled  pan  with  a  child's  broom  is  desirable 


GENERAL  CLEANING  183 

to  take  up  litter,  as  it  saves  the  back  and  does 
not  scatter  dust. 
Keep  the  pan  clean. 

Carpet  sweepers: 

Choose   one   with   a  removable   brush   with   short 

bristles,  set  in  tufts  for  spiral  action. 
The  brush  should  be  set  to  extend  below  the  pans. 
The  dustpans  should  open  easily  with  springs  at  each 

side. 
The  interior  should  be  smooth,  preferably  shellacked 

or  painted. 
The  handle  should  swing  so  that  the  sweeper  may  be 

pushed  either  way. 
To  use: 

Push  with  the  warp  and  draw  back  on  the  carpet. 

Use  short,  overlapping  strokes  with  the  woof. 

Use  without  heavy  pressure. 
To  clean  the  sweeper: 

Empty  the  pans  into  a  damp  newspaper. 

Remove  hairs  and  threads  from  the  brush  with  a 
buttonhook  or  scissors. 

Remove  the  brush  occasionally  and  wash  or  clean  it. 

Oil  (with  one  drop  of  oil). 

Advantages : 

Does  not  scatter  dust  if  kept  dean. 

Does  not  wear  the  carpet. 
Disadvantages: 

Does  not  reach  corners  or  edges  of  carpet. 

Careless  use  mars  furniture  and  mopboards. 

Vacuum  Sweepers  or  Cleaners: 
The  safest,  easiest,  and  most  sanitary  way  to  remove 

dust. 

Various  makes  and  prices. 
Most  of  them  effective. 


184   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Must  be  carefully  cleaned  after  use.  Follow  direc- 
tions for  cleaning  with  each  utensil. 

Choose  one  which  will  take  fine  litter  as  well  as 
dust,  if  possible. 

Dry  Mops: 

Fine  dust  gatherers. 

Hard  to  clean,  hence  unsanitary. 

Mop  Handle: 
String  mop  j 

Woven  mop  \  are  all  easily  cleaned  and  renewed. 
Oiled  mop    J 

Objections:  careless  use  mars  woodwork,  less  easy 
to  use  than  dry  mop. 

Broom: 

Convenient,  often  desirable  if  covered,  for  dusting 

walls. 
Should  not  be  used  for  sweeping  floors;  it  scatters 

the  dust. 
Select  a  broom  light  in  weight  and  not  too  stiff,  with 

many  branchlets,  few  seed  vessels  or  hard  stalks, 

four  rows  of  stitching,  copper  wire  and  tacks. 
To  clean: 

Shake  or  wash  out  the  dust. 

Boil  occasionally;  do  not  wet  above  the  stitching. 
Hang  free  from  the  floor. 
Use  both  sides. 

Methods  of  Sweeping 

Floor  or  Linoleum: 

Cover  the  long-handled  bristle  brush  with  a  slightly 

DAMP  or  oiled  bag  or  square  of  cheese  cloth. 
Sweep  from  you,  using  pressure  to  take  up  the  dust. 
Keep  the  brush  on  the  floor  at  the  end  of  the  stroke; 

raising  the  brush  makes  the  dust  fly. 


GENERAL  CLEANING  185 

Carpet: 

Pick  up  all  litter. 

Wipe  with  a  damp  cloth  on  the  brush. 
Sweep  the  edges  and  corners  with  a  whisk  broom. 
Use  the  carpet  sweeper  thoroughly. 
Wipe  with  a  cloth  dampened  with  ammonia  and  water. 
Position  for  Sweeping: 

Body  erect,  head  up,  mouth  closed. 
To  dispose  of  the  Dirt: 
Dampen  a  newspaper  with  a  straight  edge,  place  the 

edge  smoothly  on  the  sharp  straight  edge  of  the 

dustpan.     Tuck  in  the  wet  corners  at  the  top, 

brush  the  dirt  onto  the  paper,  fold  the  dirt  into  the 

paper,  and  ;burn. 

Use  a  soft  bristle  brush,  as  a  whisk  snaps  the  dust. 
Position  for  taking  up  Dirt: 

Back  straight,  bend  the  body  at  the  knees  and  hips. 
Turn  the  face  away  from  the  dust  as  much  as  possible. 
Windows  should  be  opened,  if  the  wind  will  carry 

the  dust  out;  closed  if  the  wind  blows  in.     Closed 

if  there  is  contagious  disease. 
Dangers  from  Sweeping: 
To  other  people  —  from  scattered  dust. 
To  the  sweeper  —  breathing  disease  germs  into  the 

lungs.    Abrasions  infected. 

Care  of  a  Waxed  Floor 

Daily: 

Sweep  with  a  soft  hair  brush. 

Rub  or  wipe  with  a  covered  brush. 
Weekly: 

Rub  all  spots  with  kerosene  (rewax  if  necessary). 

Polish  with  a  weighted  brush,  covered  with  carpeting 
for  the  final  polish. 


186   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Seasonal: 

Clean,  —  use  a  commercial  cleaner,  or  Miss  Parloa's 
Encaustic  No.  2  or  turpentine  or  wash  with  soap 
and  water. 

DRY,  REWAX.  and  polish. 
Replace  wear  with  new  wax  and  keep  the  wax  smooth. 

Utensils: 

Woolen  cloths,  cotton  waste. 
BRISTLE  BRUSH,  weighted  brush,  carpeting. 

TO  OIL  OR  WAX  FLOORS 

To  oil  or  rewax: 
Preparation  — 
Free  the  floors  from  dust. 
Free  the  room  from  dust. 
Clean  the  floor  and  free  it  from  spots. 
Dry  perfectly: 

Apply  oil  or  wax  with  circular  motion. 
Polish  with  the  grain  of  the  wood. 

Care  of  Utensils: 
Waxed  or  oiled  CLOTHS  should  be  washed  hi  soda 

solution  and  rinsed  thoroughly. 
Stored  in  tight  can  when  DRY. 
Weighted  brush  should  be  covered  when  put  away. 
STAND  on  the  side  of  the  weight  when  not  in  use. 
COVER  with  carpeting  or  a  heavy  woolen  cloth  if 

used  on  an  oiled  floor. 

Remove  the  brush  from  the  weight  to  wash  it. 
Wash    in    strong    tepid    ammonia    water.    Soak 

J  hour.     Rinse. 
Wipe  dry  as  possible. 

Dry  thoroughly  before  putting  into  the  weight 
again. 


GENERAL  CLEANING  187 

Care  of  Linoleum 

Sweep  with  a  bristle  brush. 

Wipe  with  damp  cloth. 

Use  a  small  amount  of  soap  if  necessary. 

Do  not  scrub  with  a  brush. 

Once  a  week  wipe  with  a  cloth  wet  with  part 
turpentine  or  kerosene,  1  part  boiled  linseed  oil. 

Varnished  when  new  and  waxed  lightly  every  week, 
linoleum  wears  much  longer. 

Dusting 

Dust: 

There  are  many  kinds,  always  light  enough  to  be 
raised  and  wafted  by  the  wind. 

1.  Readily  visible  —  settles  quickly. 
Source : 

Street  dust,  fragments  of  sand,  broken  fibers 
of  plants,  etc.,  fine  hairs,  ashes,  wool  fibers, 
lime,  soot,  micro-organisms,  pulverized  ex- 
creta. 

2.  Invisible  except  when  illuminated,  heaviest  part 

settles. 
Source : 

Decaying  plants,  vegetables,  animal  substances, 
dried  sputum,  etc. 

Contains  micro-organisms  which  thrive  on 
moist  surfaces,  destroy  organic  matter,  do 
not  leave  moist  surfaces,  become  detached 
when  dry,  attach  to  other  dust  and  settle. 

Aim: 

The  health  of  the  occupants. 
The  appearance  of  the  house. 
To  attain  health,  prevention  of  dust  is  desirable. 


188   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Accomplished  by  the  use  of; 

1.  Smooth  surfaces,  few  grooves,  not  carved. 

2.  Sanitary  furnishing  (heavy  draperies  and  up- 

holstered furniture  store  dust). 

3.  Preventive  measures  —  sunlight,  fresh  air,  soap, 

and  water. 
Sources  of  infection  are  — 

Dust-laden  air. 

Contact. 

Dust  settling  on  food. 
Purpose: 

Dusting  should  result  in  the  removal  of  dirt  from  the 

house  without  injury  to  person  dusting  or  articles 

dusted,  and  without  inconvenience  to  the  occupants 

of  the  house. 

A  dusted  house  is  cleaner  than  a  swept  one. 
Dust  once  and  then  stop.     Do  not  keep  stirring  the 

dust  into  the  air. 
Still  air  clears  itself  in  time,  the  weight  of  the  dust 

is  sufficient  to  carry  it  down. 
The  excess  of  labor  comes  in  dusting  small  articles,  — 

therefore,  eliminate  useless  articles,  keep  the  floors 

well  dusted,  and  dust  cannot  rise  to  settle  on  other 

articles. 
The  ideal  is  not  always  possible.    Perfect  dusting 

every  day  is  impossible  and  choice  is  often  neces- 
sary. 
Still  dust  untouched  is  harmless. 

1.  Dust  first  the  places  where  air  currents  will  move 

the  dust — window  sills  and  shades,  etc. 

2.  Places  where  there  is  personal   contact  —  arms 

of  chairs. 

3.  Where  dust  may  injure  article  —  (highly  polished 

surfaces). 

4.  Storage  places  where  insects  may  hide. 


GENERAL  CLEANING  189 

5.  Where  dust  interferes  with  purpose  of  articles  — 

window  panes,  electric  light  globes,  etc. 

6.  Where  the  appearance  is  affected  —  the  surface 

of  the  piano,  the  rockers  of  a  chair,  etc. 

UTENSILS   FOR  DUSTING 

Cheesecloth  —  cheap,  easily  cleaned,  quickly  dried. 
Patent  dusters  —  expensive,  not  so  easily  cleaned. 
Lambs  wool  —  hard  to  touch  small  parts  of  furniture, 

expensive,  hard  to  clean. 
Chamois  —  expensive,  easily  spoiled. 
Cloths: 

Oiled  or  dampened. 
Use  damp,  not  wet. 
To  dampen  —  wet  one  half  and  wring,  fold  in  the  dry 

half  and  wring  again. 
To  oil  Cloths: 
Turn  the  bottle  against  the  cloth  several  times,  fold 

and  wring. 
Use  kerosene  —  it  is   cheap,  white,  and   ready  at 

hand;    has  a  disagreeable  odor;    but  evaporates 

quickly. 

METHODS   FOR   DUSTING 

Floors: 

Catch  the  most  dust.     Level  easiest  to  dust. 
If  well  dusted,  save  dust  on  other  things. 
Dust  most  often  disturbed  as  we  walk. 
Special  Utensils: 

Covered  brush  —  cloth,  fitted  bag,  or  oiled  mop. 

Covered  broom  —  square  of  cheesecloth   or  bag 
of  cotton  flannel. 

Cloth  in  hand:  effective,  simple,  hardest  to  use. 

Dry  mops:  hard  to  clean. 

Lambs  wool  dusters :  expensive,  hard  to  clean. 


190   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Process:  push  the  brush  over  the  floor  with  a  long 
slow  stroke  from  you.  Do  not  shake  the  brush 
from  the  window.  Pick  off  hairs  and  fluff  and 
wash  the  cloth. 

Furniture : 

Oiled  cloths  benefit  leather,  wood,  and  metal. 
Damp  cloths  are  best  for  painted  surfaces. 
Wet  cloths  damage  everything,  unless  the  surface  is 

absolutely  DRIED  after  use. 
Soiled  dusters  are  apt  to  scratch  finish. 

Process: 
Wipe  off  the  dust  with  a  clean  cloth,  fold  in  the 

soiled  portion. 

Wash  the  soiled  duster,  do  not  shake  the  dust  into 
the  air. 

Study: 

Physical  effect  of  the  process:   the  position  of  the 

body. 
The  parts  to  be  dusted:  methods  of  reaching  each 

part. 
If  pressed  for  time,  choose;  dust  —  1.  points  of 

contact;  2.  horizontal  surfaces;  3.  all  surfaces. 

Books: 

To  aid  in  dusting  arrange  as  to  height.  Use  an  oiled 
or  damp  cloth  (there  must  be  no  water  left  in  the 
cloth). 

Methods: 

On  the  shelves  —  tip  back  a  handful,  dust  from  the 
binding  to  the  edge. 

Whole  book  —  work  at  a  window,  use  both  hands, 
thumbs  up,  fingers  placed  to  protect  the  binding 
at  the  back,  open  in  different  places,  clap  to- 
gether, hold  in  one  hand,  and  snap  the  leaves. 


GENERAL  CLEANING  191 

Gilt  or  rough  edges,  BLOW  from  the  back  into  a 

damp  cloth. 
Wipe  the  book  all  over. 

Pictures: 

Use  a  cloth  to  protect  the  frame  and  glass. 
Steady  with  the  left  hand. 
Wipe  the  frame,  then  the  glass. 
Care  should  be  taken  not  to  streak  the  glass. 
Use  a  small  pointed  brush  to  get  the  dust  from 
carved  frames. 

Cleaning 

Aim: 

The  removal  of  dirt  which  has  dried. 

Must  be  moistened,  softened,  and  rubbed  off. 
Requires  something  to  dissolve  the  dirt. 
General  Rules: 

Remove  spots  from  paint  as  soon  as  they  are  dis- 
covered. 

It  is  much  easier  to  keep  paint  clean  if  one  does  not 
wait  for  general  cleaning  days. 

Always  take  the  dry  dust  from  paint  before  cleaning, 
otherwise  it  makes  the  paint  streaked  and  muddy 
and  it  is  much  harder  to  clean. 
Materials  for  General  Use: 

Chamois  or  domet  flannel. 

Soft  cloths  (flannel,  cheese  cloth,  crash,  old  cotton, 
not  linty). 

Skewers. 

Scrubbing  brushes,  soft  and  stiff. 

Pail  and  basins. 

Oils  —  kerosene,  boiled  linseed,  sweet  oil. 

Soap  —  frictional  and  cleaning  (not  too  strong). 

Borax,  ammonia,  turpentine,  tripoli,  whiting,  scour- 
ing powder,  beeswax. 


192   MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Care  of  Cleaning  Utensils: 
To  clean  chamois: 
Wash  in  gasolene,  or  soak  in  tepid  water  with  ivory 

soap  or  two  tablespoons  of  ammonia  to  one 

quart  of  water. 
Squeeze;  do  not  rub  hard. 
Use  a  brush  with  gentle  rubbing  for  stains. 
Wipe  off  the  dirt. 

Rinse  many  times,  reduce  the  ammonia  each  time. 
Squeeze  and  pull  into  shape. 
Dry  in  a  medium  temperature. 
Stretch  and  pull  gently  until  soft. 
To  wash  dusters  or  cleaning  cloths: 

Rinse  well  and  rub  naphtha  soap  all  over  them; 

roll  and  stand  in  a  little  cold  water  one-half 

hour. 
Rub  spots  until  clean,  rinse  in  cool  water  until  free 

from  soap,  and  hang  (out  of  doors  if  possible)  to 

dry. 
To  wash  oiled  or  waxed  cloths: 

Use  woolen  cloths  for  waxing,  oiling,  or  polishing. 

Do  not  throw  them  away  —  when  really  dirty, 

cleanse  them. 

Dissolve  1  cup  washing  soda  in  one  gallon  of  boil- 
ing water. 
Soak  the  cloths  in  this  one  hour,  stirring  them 

with  a  stick  several  times. 
Add  a  gallon  of  boiling  water  and  work  the  cloths 

about  with  the  stick  several  minutes. 
Drain,  add  soapsuds,  and  work  again. 
Rinse  in  clear  hot  water  and  then  in  two  quarts  of 

warm  water  with  a  tablespoonful  of  linseed  oil 

in  it. 
Squeeze  out  the  water  and  hang  to  dry  without 

wringing. 


GENERAL  CLEANING  193 

To  clean  scrubbing  brushes: 
Rinse  well  and  remove  all  threads,  lint,  etc. 
Rinse  in  clean  water  and  stand  to  dry  on  the 

side  so  the  water  will  not  settle  into  the  wood. 
Do  not  shut  them  up  in  a  box  or  closet  until  dry. 

General  Method: 

Use  a  circular  motion  for  cleaning. 
Rub  with  the  grain  to  dry. 
Always  wipe  with  a  damp  cloth. 

(Scour  with  frictional  material.) 
Wash,  rinse,  wipe  dry. 
Avoid  —  Too  much  water. 

Dirty  water. 

Leaving  wood  wet. 

Leaving  corners  wet. 

Water  and  dirt  in  cracks. 

Cleaning  Woods 

Unfinished  Wood: 

Requires  actual  scouring  to  remove  dirt  from  pores. 
Special  Materials. 

Small  amount  of  liquid. 

Frictional  material,  no  soap. 

(Acids  lighten  the  color,  alkalies  darken  wood.) 

Stiff  brush. 

Method : 

Wipe  with  a  damp  cloth. 

Scrub  with  a  circular  motion,  to  scour. 

Wash  and  rinse. 

Dry  with  grain  of  the  wood. 
To  remove  stains: 

Caused  by  rain,  melting  frost,  flower  pots,  use  oil 
or  turpentine;  if  oak  wood,  use  oxalic  acid. 


194    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Caused  by  soot,  which  is  greasy  and  insoluble  in 
water,  cover  with  dry  oatmeal  or  sawdust, 
brush  up,  then  use  soap  and  water. 

Finished  Wood: 
The  surface  finish  must  not  be  broken,  no  scouring 

possible. 
Materials: 

Soft  cloth. 

Oil. 

Weak  soap  suds  (must  not  dry  on). 

Borax. 
Method : 

Clean  only  small  portions  at  a  time. 

Do  not  use  too  much  liquid. 

Dry  perfectly  —  AT  ONCE. 

Enameled  Woods: 
Materials : 

Hot  water,  weak  ammonia,  mild  soap. 
Method : 

As  for  finished  wood. 

Stained  Wood: 

0  . 

Materials : 

Oiled  cloth,  slightly  damp. 
Method: 

Rub  the  surface  hard. 

Shellac  or  Varnish: 
Materials: 

Avoid  —  alcohol,  water,  alkali  (soda  and  am- 
monia). 

Use  —  kerosene,  with  powdered  tripoli  for  spots. 
Method : 

Use  very  light  pressure. 
Dry  perfectly. 


GENERAL  CLEANING  195 

Natural  Wood: 
Materials: 

Turpentine  for  spots,  oil  for  gloss. 
Paraffin  oil  and  turpentine  once  a  year. 
If -dry  and  cracked,  use  boiled  linseed  oil  once  in 

two  weeks  till  the  color  is  restored. 
When  sun  or  great  heat  dries  out  finish,  use  frequent 
applications  of  boiled  linseed  oil,  well  rubbed  in. 
Example,  outside  doors  several  times  a  year. 
Method : 
Remove  spots.  N 

Rub  in  the  oil  and  turpentine  and  stand. 
Rub  well  until  dry. 

Paint  (colored  paint  wears  off  more  quickly  than  white). 
Materials: 
Soft  cloths. 

Flannel  for  utensils  and  rubbing. 
Old  knit  underwear  for  rinsing  and  drying. 
Skewers  for  corners. 
Soap  mild  (strong  soap  turns  white  paint  yellow 

in  time). 

Fine  frictional  material,  whiting,  or  Dutch  Cleanser. 
Kerosene  is  very  good;    but  used  too  often  will 

turn  white  paint  yellow. 
Warm,  clear  water. 
Two  basins. 
Methods: 
Wet  a  cloth  in  clean  soapy  water  and  wring  nearly 

dry. 
Rub  the  paint,  and  if  this  does  not  remove  the  dirt 

use  a  fine  friction. 

Rinse  well  with  the  clear  water  and  dry. 
Change  the  water  often. 
Do  not  try  to  clean  with  dirty  water. 


196    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

When  using  kerosene,  moisten  the  cleaning  cloth 
with  kerosene  and  rub  the  paint  until  clean. 

Wipe  dry  with  another  cloth. 

Leave  the  windows  open  until  the  odor  is  gone. 
Waxed  Surfaces: 
Must  be  kept  polished. 
Clean  with  turpentine  or  kerosene  on  a  cloth. 
Replace  the  wax  and  rub  well. 
Water  allowed  to  stand  on  a  waxed  surface  makes 

BLACK  spots. 
Hot  water  takes  off  wax. 

Cleaning  Windows 

Clean  windows  have  been  called  "the  hall  mark  of 
respectability." 
Need: 

Children  handle  them;  there  is  danger  from  contact. 

Dust  and  condensed  vapors  interfere  with  light. 
To  avoid  the  Necessity  of  Frequent  Cleaning : 

1 .  Ventilate  the  house  while  cooking  or  washing — the 

gases  and  steam  will  escape  before  condensing. 

2.  Dust  the  window  panes  daily. 
Utensils : 

Skewers,  cotton  flannel  cloths,  cheese  cloth,  chamois, 
crumpled  paper. 

Materials: 

Bon  Ami,  plus  water  or  ammonia  water  or  alcohol. 
Whiting,  plus  water  or  ammonia  water  or  alcohol. 
Water  with  kerosene  (two  tablespoons  of  kerosene 

to  a  pail  of  water). 
Kerosene  (good  polish  in  winter). 
Soapsuds,  plus  much  rubbing  and  rinsing   (apt  to 

leave  the  glass  cloudy). 
Alcohol  (in  winter). 


GENERAL  CLEANING  197 

Method : 

Brush  the  blinds  or  screens. 
Dust  the  panes. 

Clean  the  woodwork  (use  skewers  in  the  corners). 
Oil  the  woodwork  if  necessary,  (protect   the  glass 

from  the  oil). 
Lower  the  outer  sash  far  enough  for  the  arm  to  go 

down  outside;  reach  as  far  as  possible. 
Wash,  rinse,  dry,  and  polish;  drop  way  down. 
Raise  the  inner  sash  and  from  above  clean  the  top 

of  the  outside. 

Finish  the  outer  sash  from  below;  raise  to  position. 
Finish  the  outside  of  the  inner  sash  from  below. 
Clean  the  inside  of  both  sashes. 

Note: 
There  are  two  methods  of  cleaning  the  glass: 

1.  By  the  use  of  dry  cleaners;    use  Bon  Ami  or 

whiting  with  water  or  alcohol. 
Apply  to  the  glass  in  an  even  paste. 
Allow  this  to  dry  and  polish  the  glass  with  soft 

chamois  or  paper. 
Objection  —  the  fine  powder  which  flies  over 

the    furniture    and    stays    on    the    window 

frames. 

2.  By  the  use  of  liquid  cleaners.     Use  any  of  the 

materials  as  given  above. 
Dust,  wash,  rinse,  dry  and  polish  as  for  any 
glass  ware. 

Avoid : 

Dripping  water,  it  streaks  the  glass. 

Soap,  not  rinsed  off,  makes  glass  cloudy. 

Sun  on  the  glass,  streaks  the  glass  and  is  bad  for  the 

eyes  of  the  worker. 
Linty  cloths. 


198    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Use: 

Tepid  water;  cold  does  not  dissolve  the  grease. 

Especial  care  in  corners. 
Far  Spots: 

Fly  specks,  —  the  smooth  edge  of  a  coin  or  alcohol. 

Paint  —  turpentine. 

Putty  —  scraping. 

Whitewash  —  rub  with  vinegar. 

Mirrors 

Dust  well  and  often. 

Clean  with  alcohol  (use  care  not  to  let  it  run  under 
the  frame). 

Picture  Glasses 

Protect  the  frame. 

Use  alcohol  or  ammonia  water  (use  care  not  to  let 
it  run  under  the  frame). 

Dry  carefully,  polish  with  chamois  or  crumpled  paper. 

Marble 

The  finished  surface  keeps  the  marble  looking  well, 
and  partially  nonabsorbent,  —  avoid  friction,  keep 
the  surface  polish  as  long  as  possible. 

Use  soft  cloths  and  brushes. 

If  worn,  scour  with  sapolio  or  whiting. 
Spots: 

For  grease  use  Fuller's  Earth  for  twenty-four  hours. 

Avoid  acids;  they  remove  the  surface. 

To  smooth  use  emery  paper,  powdered  emery,  or 
pumice  and  rub  with  a  circular  motion;  finish 
with  whiting. 


CHAPTER  XV 

TO   OPEN   AND    CLOSE   A   HOUSE 

Begin  early  to  plan: 

Calculate  food  supplies;  reduce  them  to  lowest  possi- 
ble terms. 

Plan  for  the  safety  of  the  house  and  its  furnishings. 

Plan  for  the  health  of  the  members  of  the  family  on 
their  return. 

Plan  for  the  convenience  of  the  family  on  return. 

Consider  the   length  of   time   the  house   is   to   be 
closed. 

Consider  the   time  of  year,  —  winter,  summer,  or 

longer  time. 
Dangers  to  a  Closed  House: 

1.  Fire: 

Matches  —  leave  only  a  few,  in  a  tight  metal 

box,  in  the  front  hall. 
Electricity  —  safest  to  disconnect. 
Gas  —  safest  to  disconnect   the  meter;   leaks 

may  occur  and  cause  an  explosion. 
Spontaneous   combustion  —  leave   no  piles  of 

paper  or  old  cloth. 

2.  Water  supply: 

Leaking  faucets,  splitting  of  brass  pipes. 

Freezing  in  winter. 

Lead  pipes  sag  and  may   leak;   thirsty  rats 

gnaw  lead  pipes. 
Safest  to  shut  off;  do  it  yourself  if  it  can  be 

done  in  the  cellar.     Notify  authorities  if  it 

must  be  done  at  the  street. 


200    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Open  all  faucets  and  allow  them  to  run 
when  the  water  is  turned  off;  this  will 
drain  the  pipes.  Be  careful  to  have  a 
pail  under  the  waste  pipe  near  the  shut-off 
so  that  the  water  will  not  run  into  the 
cellar  when  the  cock  is  closed  and  the  pipes 
drained. 

3.  Waste  pipes: 

The  water  seals  in  the  traps  evaporate  if  left 
unused  a  long  time  (two  to  four  weeks).  To 
PREVENT,  flush  and  cover  with  oil  (olive  or 
lubricating  oil) ;  this  will  also  prevent  mosqui- 
toes breeding  in  the  water. 

Water  seal  freezes.  To  prevent,  disconnect 
the  fixtures  and  plug  the  pipe,  or  displace 
the  seal  with  oil,  glycerine,  or  molasses. 

4.  Roof  leaks: 

Walls  and  furnishings  spoiled.  Have  inspection 
made  before  leaving  a  house  for  a  long  time. 

5.  Dampness: 

Mildew  on  fabrics. 
Rust  on  metals. 
Corrodes  silver. 

Avoid  by  CARE  in  regard  to  all  source  of  mois- 
ture. 

6.  Squirrels  (great  danger  in  summer  camps). 

They  make  nests  in  mattresses,  clothing,  rugs. 

Leave  no  open  spaces  for  entrance. 

Cover  the  chimney  top  with  a  weighted  board 

or  a  canvas  cap. 
Hang  clothing  and  bedding  over  lines. 

7.  Birds,  mosquitoes,  flies,  bats  (also  troublesome 

in  camps). 

Cover  the  top  of  the  chimney  and  any  other 
openings. 


TO  OPEN  AND  CLOSE  A  HOUSE          201 

8.  Burglars: 

Store  silver  outside  of  the  house. 

Leave  no  food  about  the  house. 

Store  very  valuable  fabrics  outside  the  house. 

Post  burglar  insurance. 

Leave  open  shutters  on  each  floor. 

Explain    the    situation    and    the    position    of 

things  to  the  policeman  on  the  beat  or  to 

observant  neighbors. 

9.  Insects,  vermin: 

In  furnishings  and  fabrics. 

Woodwork  and  mattresses. 

To  prevent,  —  leave  no  dirt,  crumbs,  or  food  supplies 
about  the  house.     Protect  all  fabrics  as  carefully  as 
possible.     Allow  the  sun  to  come  into  the  house. 
Special  Care  should  be  given  to: 

1.  The  Heaters: 

Clean,  remove  all  ashes,  free  pipes,  etc.,  from 
soot. 

Oil  with  lard,  or  in  case  of  furnace  paint  out- 
side surface. 

Take  furnace  smoke  pipes  down.  Prevents 
rusting,  also  prevents  petty  thieves  from 
building  fires. 

2.  Furniture: 

Cover  from  the  dust. 

3.  Pictures: 

Cover  on  the  wall. 

4.  Expensive  glassware:   (for  a  long  absence). 

Wrap,  mark,  pack  in  a  box  or  barrel. 

5.  Books  on  open  shelves: 

Cover  with  paper  which  folds  over  and  behind 
each  row  of  books. 

6.  Chandelier: 

Dust  and  cover. 


202    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

7.  Brasses: 

Andirons: 

Polish  and  wind  with  cloth  or  paper. 
Curtain  poles: 

Wind  with  paper. 
Small  pieces: 

Desk  sets,  etc.,  wrap  separately. 

8.  Iron  chandelier  or  andirons: 

Rub  with  oil. 

9.  Furs: 

Cold  storage  is  economy.  Moth  eggs  cannot 
hatch. 

10.  Fabrics: 

Linen,  cotton,  table  linen,  bed  linen,  clothing, 
curtains  —  clean,  not  starched,  preferably 
not  ironed. 

Woolen:  blankets,  clothing,  and  underwear  — 
air  thoroughly,  clean,  free  from  grease. 
Hang  where  the  sun  can  come  in,  sepa- 
rately in  an  open  place,  cover  with  sheets,  or 
in  cotton  or  tar  bags  on  lines  across  a  room. 
Pack  in  boxes  lined  with  newspapers,  in  a 
cedar  chest  or  closet,  or  pack  with  gum 
camphor  or  moth  balls  in  tight  drawers 
or  trunks.  Wrap  each  piece  in  newspaper 
and  mark. 

11.  Rugs: 

Clean,  roll  and  cover  or  spread  on  newspapers 
and  pile  with  papers  between,  cover  with 
cotton  or  newspaper.  The  newspapers  should 
be  folded  over  the  edges.  Rolled  rugs  should 
be  raised  from  the  floor  on  chairs  or  tables. 

12.  Carpets : 

Thoroughly  clean,  roll  with    camphor   or  a 
substitute. 


TO  OPEN  AND  CLOSE  A  HOUSE          203 

If  left  on  the  floor,  vacuum  clean,  remove 
tacks  and  powder  the  edges  with  camphor 
or  insect  powder. 

13.  Mattresses: 

Cover  the  springs  to  prevent  rust.  Raise  the 
the  mattresses  from  the  springs  and  cover 
with  sheets. 

14.  Pillows: 

Hang  by  the  corners  from  a  line  and  cover  or 
put  in  tight  bureau  drawers. 

15.  Shades: 

Brush  and  wipe  free  from  dust.  Roll  close 
and  cover  with  paper.  If  it  is  desirable  to 
leave  shades  at  the  windows,  use  old  ones 
if  possible.  The  sun  will  fade  and  change 

the  color  and  rot  the  fabric. 

i 

Actual  Closing 

Examine  the  plumbing. 

Examine  all  food  storage  places. 

Leave  everything  clean  and  dry,  free  from  crumbs, 

free  from  food. 
Dispose  of  all  fat. 
Protect  soap  from  mice. 
Allow  some  light  in  each  room,  preferably  at  the  top 

of  the  window. 
Close  the  windows  and   doors   on   the   lower  floor 

with  shutters  if  desirable. 
Admit  air,  by  dropping  a  window  a  few  inches  at 

the  top  and  fasten  with  brass  bar. 
Leave  the  windows  on  the  upper  floors  unshuttered 

and,  if  possible,  with  old  shades  or  white  cotton 

to  keep  out  the  sun. 


204    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

INVENTORY 

Make  three  lists  of  everything  in  house. 

1.  Owner.  Useful  for  —  1.   Insurance. 

2.  Caretaker.  2.   Burglary. 

3.  Inside  the  house  3.  Accident. 
Insurance: 

Have  fire  and  burglar  insurance.    Enlist  service  and 

interest  of  policeman  on  the  beat. 
Keys: 
Family,  caretaker,  policeman  (if  desirable). 

To  Open  a  House  (short  absence) 

Have  fires  built  before  your  arrival  if  possible. 
Open  every  window. 

Turn  on  the  water  in  the  cellar.     Open  the  faucets. 
Open  the  windows  in  the  'cellar. 
Flush  every  trap  in  the  house. 
Build  fires. 

Dust  the  woodwork  and  floors. 
Open  the  beds. 
Uncover  articles  of  furniture. 
Unpack  the  bedding  —  air,  dry,  sun. 
Unpack  silver,  etc. 
(Use  of  lists  apparent.) 

To  Open  a  House  (long  absence) 

Connect  all  pipes  and  meters,  electricity,  gas,  and 
water. 

If  plumbers  are  necessary,  notify  them  ahead  of 
time  and  make  an  appointment  for  the  hour  of  arrival 
or  have  the  caretaker  attend  to  it.  Proceed  as  after  a 
short  absence. 


CHAPTER  XVI 

HOUSE   INSPECTIONS 

House  Inspection 

Before  renting  or  buying: 
Study  — 
The  sunshine  plan.     Do  you  get  the  sun  in  the 

rooms  when  it  is  most  important? 
Arrangement  of  rooms.    Are  they  pleasant  to 

live  in,  comfortable  to  work  in,  light,  easily 

cared  for? 
Examine  — 

The  underpinning,  leaders,  blinds,  and  fasten- 
ings. 

Paint  —  inside  and  out. 
Ceilings  and  floors. 
Doors  —  the  knobs,  stop  knobs,  sticking  doors, 

locks  and  keys,  door  screens. 
Heat,   plumbing  —  kind,  condition,    failure  to 

heat  certain  rooms  completely?   effectively? 
Windows  —  cords  and  fastenings.     Screens. 
Gas  burners  —  tips  and  shades. 
Registers  —  screens,  and  closings. 
Skylights  —  look  for  signs  of  leaks. 
Cellar  —  air,  light   (day,  evening),  walls,  stairs, 

floors,  dampness,  screens. 

Position  of  fuel,  refuse,  furnace,  size  of  coal 
bin. 

Position  of  meters  and  shut-off  cocks  (water, 
gas,  and  electricity). 


206    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Consider: 

1.  Whether  the  results  of  the  inspection  on  the 

whole  make  it  wise  to  hire,  or  whether  condi- 
tions are  so  bad  that  constant  discomfort 
would  result.  Balance  every  advantage  with 
every  disadvantage. 

2.  Whether  the  conditions  are  so  unfavorable  that 

the  cost  of  repairs  would  make  the  cost  of 
purchase  prohibitive  or  unwise. 

Seasonal  House  Inspection 

Spring: 

Painting  inside.     Papering. 
Kalsomining  ceilings.     Whitewashing  cellar. 
Floors  and  other  wood  finish. 
Glazier  work. 

Carpenters'  repairs  —  leaders,  coal  bin,  doors,  blinds. 
Gas  pipes. 

Plumbing  —  drainage,  faucets  (new  washers). 
Disposal  of  waste  —  house  and  cellar. 
Furnace  —  cleaning   and   repairs. 
Carpets   and  rugs  —  mended   and   cleaned    or    re- 
placed. 
Curtains.     Screens. 

Fall: 

Outside  painting. 

Chimney  —  mortar  top,  repointed. 

Foundations,  sills,  steps. 

Roof    work  —  all    leaks,    shingles,    tin,    skylights, 

gutters. 

Stove  flues,  clear. 
Repairs  on  furniture. 

Gas  and  plumbing  —  inspection  for  safeguard. 
Replacing  of  furnace  pipes.     Inspection  of  radiators. 
Mattresses  renovated  and  window  shades  turned. 


HOUSE  INSPECTIONS  207 

Window  cords. 

In  some  cases  it  does  not  matter  whether  repairs 
are  made  in  the  Spring  or  Fall;  in  other  cases  it  makes 
a  very  decided  difference  either  in  cost,  convenience,  or 
permanence. 
For  example: 

Outside  painting  stands  better  if  done  in  the  Fall. 
Inside  painting  is  less  disagreeable  if  done  in  the 
early  Spring,  when  the  windows  may  be  open: 
but  before  flies  and  insects  are  about. 
Good  Records  to  keep: 

The  cost  of  materials  and  work  for  — 
Papering  (also  the  way  of  calculating  the  amount 

of  paper  required). 
Carpentering. 

Plastering,  whitewashing,  kalsomining. 
Cleaning  of  heating  systems  and  flues. 
Mattress  renovating. 
Plumbing,  drainage,  gas  fitting. 
Floor  finishing. 
Painting,  inside  work. 
Glazier  work. 
Outside  painting. 
Removal  of  waste. 

Addresses  of  workmen  who  have  proved  satis- 
factory. 


CHAPTER  XVII 

SMALL   REPAIRS,   PLUMBING   TROUBLES 

Small  Repairs 

Provide  a  tool  box  containing  a  good  hammer,  screw 

driver,  awl,  wrench,  small  saw,  nails,  tacks,  heavy 

scissors,  wire,  bit,  chisel,  and  any  other  tools  you 

require.     Putty  knife  and  glass  cutter  are  useful. 

In  the  absence  of  a  " Handy  Man"  try  what  you  can 

do  yourself. 

When  you  fail  send  for  a  carpenter. 
Squeaking  Doors: 

A  drop  of  oil  on  each  hinge  will  usually  stop  a  squeak. 
Sticking  Doors: 

Avoid  planing  white  wood  doors.     Shrinking  and 

expansion  continue. 
Tightening  the  screws  of  the  hinges  will  frequently 

stop  a  door  from  sticking. 
Loose  Door  Handles: 

Replace  the  worn  screw  with  one  slightly  larger. 
Locks: 

Should  be  oiled  frequently.     Oil  the  key  and  turn  it 
several  times  in  the  lock  and  the  strikers  will  turn 
more  easily.    Tighten  loose  screws. 
Holes  in  Woodwork: 

Fill  with  putty,  plaster  of  Paris,  or  sawdust  and  glue. 

Gas  Fixtures: 

Emergency  leaks  —  detect  with  soapsuds,  stop  with 
sealing  wax  or  soap.  Do  not  look  for  gas  leaks 
with  flames. 


SMALL  REPAIRS,   PLUMBING  TROUBLES    209 

Sagging  Blinds: 

Push  back  into  shape.  Screw  on  iron  angles  at  the 
corners. 

Glazier  Work: 

May  be  done  at  home.  Saves  glass  as  well  as  money. 
Have  glass  perfectly  level. 

Masonry: 

Temporary  repairs  may  be  made  with  Portland 
cement. 

Window  Cords: 

May  be  changed  if  proper  pockets  have  been  left  in 
window  frames. 

Unscrew  the  protection  molding  and  take  out  the 
weights.  Change  the  cord,  threading  it  care- 
fully over  the  pulley.  The  weight  nearest  the 
room  is  for  the  lower  sash.  Take  care  that  the 
new  cords  are  the  proper  length  and  are  not 
twisted.  Replace  the  molding  and  screw  it  tight. 

Rattling  Windows: 

Remove  the  window  fastening  from  one  side  and  re- 
place it  just  far  enough  back  to  bring  the  windows 
close  together. 

Screw  the  side  moldings  tight,  and  if  the  windows 
still  rattle  use  small  wedges  at  the  side  or  between 
the  sashes. 

Sticking  Windows: 

Remove  the  molding.  Loosen  the  frame.  Rub 
the  frame  with  hand  soap  or  paraffin  and  replace. 

Window  Shades: 

If  soiled  at  the  bottom  remove  from  the  roller  and 
reverse;  hem  the  top,  tack  the  bottom  on  the  roller, 
and  use  again. 


210    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Furniture: 

To  glue  —  remove  all  old  glue  from  both  surfaces. 
MELT  the  glue  in  a  hot  water  bath;  if  too  thick, 
thin  with  vinegar,  NOT  water.     Apply  as  thin  a 
layer  of  glue  as  possible,  to  slightly  warmed  sur- 
faces.    FIT  the  edges  together  perfectly.     Apply 
EVEN  pressure  and  continue  the  pressure  until 
the  glue  is  dry.     Leave  the  excess  glue  until  dry; 
then  scrape  it  off  or  soften  with  vinegar. 
To  refinish  furniture  —  take  off  the  handles  or  knobs. 
Remove  the  old  finish  by  use  of  good  varnish  or 

paint  remover. 
Rub  with  sand  paper,  first  fine  then  finer  —  finish 

with  emery  paper. 
Apply  reliable  stain  —  then  varnish;  when  dry  rub 

down  again,  using  oil  and  pumice  or  sandpaper. 
When  smooth,  wax;  rub  vigorously  to  get  a  soft 

finish. 
Replace  the  handles  and  knobs. 

To  paint  Furniture: 
Remove  the  old  finish  as  before. 
Rub  smooth  and  paint  with  several  coats  of  paint. 
Do  not  add  a  second  coat  until  the  first  is  dry. 
Finish  with  a  coat  of  enamel  paint. 
If  the  various  coats  of  paint  are  carefully  rubbed  down 
with  emery  paper,  the  result  will  be  a  better  finish. 

Sagging  Cane  Seats: 

Turn  the  chair  upside  down  and  lay  a  wet  cloth  on 
the  under  side  of  the  seat.  If  only  beginning  to 
stretch,  this  will  shrink  it  tight  again. 

Painting: 

Buy  ready  mixed  paints.  Name  color  may  be 
untrustworthy;  test  before  using.  Thin  with 
turpentine  (carefully).  Stir  from  the  bottom  with 


SMALL  REPAIRS,   PLUMBING  TROUBLES    211 

a  stick.  Keep  stirred  as  you  use  it.  Remove  the 
loose  hairs  from  the  brush.  Work  back  and  forth 
to  loosen  the  hairs.  If  hairs  come  out  while 
painting,  remove  them  at  once  from  the  painted 
surface.  Too  wide  a  brush  spreads  paint  unevenly. 
Saturate  the  brush;  then  remove  all  the  paint 
possible.  Take  the  last  stroke  with  the  grain  of 
the  wood.  Protect  other  surfaces  with  thin 
sheet  of  metal  or  pasteboard.  Dry  each  coat 
PERFECTLY  before  the  next  is  put  on.  Start 
with  a  clean,  smooth,  dry  surface,  dusted  and 
free  from  grease. 

Wall  Paper: 
Paste  down  loose  corners.    Save  surplus  paper  for 

patches. 

Fade  patches  before  pasting. 
If  paper  is  faded,  but  not  torn,  paint  with  cold 

water  paint  (kalsomine);   it  is  inexpensive,  easy 

to  apply,  not  durable,  will  not  wash,  but  can  be 

renewed. 

Plumbing  Troubles  and  Remedies 

WATER    HAMMER 

If  there  is  a  water  hammer  or  banging  in  the  pipes, 
have  an  extension  of  the  supply  pipes  above  or  near  the 
faucets  in  the  lower  story.  These  extensions  or  air 
chambers  should  be  H  or  2  feet  long.  A  water  hammer 
in  a  lead  pipe  strains  the  pipe  and  gradually  bulges 
it  until  it  bursts.  If  a  water  hammer  returns  after 
extensions  are  put  in,  shut  off  the  water  at  the  stop- 
cock inside  the  cellar  wall  and  drain  the  water  from  the 
pipes.  When  the  water  is  let  into  the  pipes  again,  the 
air  chambers  will  be  filled  with  ah-  and  once  more 
effective. 


212    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

DRIPPING   FAUCETS 

Old-fashioned  ground  cocks  can  be  repaired  only  by 
replacing  the  faucet.  Compression  cocks  may  have 
leather,  fiber,  or  rubber  washers  renewed.  Shut  the 
water  from  the  faucet  either  by  a  special  cock  near 
the  faucet  or,  failing,  that  at  the  cellar.  If  it  is  a  hot 
water  faucet  the  supply  of  water  from  the  tank  must 
be  shut  off.  When  water  is  shut  off  in  the  cellar, 
there  will  be  water  which  will  drain  from  the  waste 
pipe;  see  that  it  does  not  injure  anything. 

Unscrew  the  top  of  the  faucet  with  a  wrench  if 
necessary.  Unscrew  the  spindle  and  draw  it  out; 
unscrew  the  washer  from  the  bottom  of  the  spindle  and 
replace  with  another  washer.  Provide  half-inch  and 
five-eighths  of  an  inch  washers  for  various  size  faucets. 

BALL   COCKS 

The  inlet  of  a  modern  water  closet  tank  is  regulated  by 
a  ball  cock  and  float.  The  ball  float  rests  on  the  surface 
of  the  water,  and  when  the  water  is  at  its  highest  point 
the  ball  has  closed  the  cock  and  the  water  is  shut  off. 

Leakage  through  a  ball  cock  is  often  slow  and  hardly 
noticed,  but  is  costly  and  should  be  remedied 

The  washer  may  be  worn  and  allow  the  water  to 
trickle  through,  or  the  rod  which  connects  the  ball  with 
the  cock  may  become  bent  with  the  upward  pressure 
of  the  water.  In  this  case  the  water  finally  reaches 
the  level  of  the  overflow  before  it  is  shut  off.  If  in- 
spection shows  this  to  be  the  case  the  rod  may  with 
care  be  bent  back  to  its  proper  position.  If  the  rod 
is  straight  and  there  is  still  an  overflow  the  cause  is 
probably  either  a  worn  washer  or  some  foreign  sub- 
stance between  the  washer  and  the  metal.  Shut  off 
the  water;  take  off  the  rod,  which  is  usually  held  in 
place  on  the  spindle  of  the  ball  cock  by  a  cap  screwed 


SMALL  REPAIRS,  PLUMBING  TROUBLES    213 

over  it.  Remove  the  spindle  and  clean  or  replace 
the  washer.  If  the  float  is  submerged  the  ball  itself 
probably  leaks;  if  it  is  a  copper  ball  the  water  may  be 
drained  out  and  the  hole  soldered.  This  sort  of  leak 
can  be  stopped  temporarily  by  tying  up  the  ball  to 
keep  it  above  the  water  line. 

The  outlet  of  a  modern  tank  is  regulated  by  a  stopper 
which  is  lifted  when  the  chain  is  pulled.  This  stopper 
may  be  a  soft  rubber  ball  or  a  flat  valve;  in  either 
case  the  arrangement  is  such  that  the  flow  of  water 
from  the  tank  is  automatic  and  after  the  chain  is 
once  pulled  is  not  dependent  upon  the  length  of  time 
the  chain  is  held. 

In  the  type  of  tank  which  has  the  rubber  ball  as 
stopper  there  is  sometimes  trouble  due  to  the  catching 
of  the  wire  which  holds  the  ball  or  to  the  fact  that  the  ball 
itself  becomes  worn  or  soft  and  does  not  slip  into  place 
easily.  In  this  case  the  water  continues  to  flow  into 
the  flush  pipe  until  the  ball  is  pushed  down  into  posi- 
tion. When  this  trouble  appears,  it  is  evident  from 
the  rushing  sound,  and  the  amount  of  water  which 
pours  into  the  closet  bowl.  These  balls  are  easily 
obtained  and  replaced  without  hiring  a  plumber. 

Notes: 

In  using  caustic  potash  solution  in  the  pipes  of  a 
porcelain  or  porcelain-lined  sink,  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  let  the  potash  come  in  contact 
with  the  porcelain  as  it  will  eat  into  the  finish. 
When  planning  the  plumbing  in  your  own  house 
insist  that  every  faucet  or  toilet  fixture  have  a 
shut-off  near  it,  controlling  the  supply  of  water 
to  that  faucet.  This  makes  a  water  famine  all 
over  the  house,  because  of  the  disability  of  any 
one  fixture,  unnecessary. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

THE    READING   OF   GAS   AND   ELECTRIC    METERS 
To  Read  a  Gas  Meter 

GAS  is  measured  by  the  cubic  foot,  and  the  charge  is 
for  each  thousand  cubic  feet.  The  number  of  cubic  feet 
is  recorded  on  the  index,  which  is  in  dial  form  on  the 
front  of  the  meter. 

In  reading  always  take  the  last  figure  the  hand  has 
passed  and  read  the  numerals  in  sequence,  beginning 
with  the  highest  dial.  If  the  pointer  is  between  two 
numbers  always  take  the  smallest  number. 


Each  division 
of  this  dial  de- 
notes 10,000 
feet. 


Each  division 
of  this  dial  de- 
notes 1000  feet. 


Each  division 
of  this  dial  de- 
notes 100  feet. 


How  TO  READ  A  GAS  METEH. 

It  is  never  necessary  to  reset  a  meter  index;  when  the 
pointer  on  the  highest  dial  reaches  zero  all  the  pointers 
revert  to  zero  and  the  index  resets  itself. 

Take  a  reading  each  month  as  near  the  time  when  the 
Company  reads  as  possible.  Keep  a  record  of  the  read- 
ings and  deduct  the  amount  from  the  next  reading.  The 
difference  will  represent  the  amount  of  gas  consumed 
during  the  period  between  readings  and  your  bill  for 
the  month  can  easily  be  checked. 


READING  GAS  AND  ELECTRIC  METERS    215 

To  Read  an  Electric  Meter 

Electricity  charges  are  for  the  number  of  kilowatt 
hours  used. 

An  ampere  is  the  measure  of  electrical  current. 

A  volt  is  the  measure  of  electrical  pressure. 

A  watt  is  the  measure  of  electrical  power. 

The  voltage  and  amperes  are  marked  on  apparatus; 
the  volts  X  the  amperes  equal  the  watts. 

The  number  of  watts  marked  upon  apparatus  indi- 
cates the  amount  of  electric  power  which  will  be  used 
in  one  hour.  A  kilowatt  hour  is  1000  watts  burned  or 
used  for  one  hour. 

To  read  the  meter  read  the  dials  as  from  a  gas  meter 
(in  kilowatt  hours  instead  of  cubic  feet).  Keep  the 
records  hi  order  to  find  the  amount  used  in  a  given 
time. 

Cautions 

Do  not  use  apparatus  requiring  more  voltage  than 
your  wiring  supplies.  The  usual  voltage  for  private 
houses  is  110;  increased  voltage  usually  doubles  that, 
220. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  current  —  direct  and  indirect 
or  alternating.  See  that  your  apparatus  is  right  for 
your  current.  Heating  apparatus  may  be  used  on 
either.  Power  apparatus  must  usually  be  adjusted 
to  one  type,  though  there  are  universal  motors  which 
can  be  used  on  either  current. 

Make  yourself  familiar  with  the  different  circuits  in 
your  wiring.  When  there  is  no  chart  of  the  circuits  turn 
on  all  the  lights  and  unscrew  one  fuse  after  the  other, 
noticing  which  lights  go  out  as  each  circuit  is  broken. 
Keep  a  record  of  these  tests  and  you  can  easily  tell 
which  fuses  must  be  replaced  if  one  burns  out. 


216    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

This  chart  and  record  will  be  valuable  for  the  use  of 
the  electrician  as  well  as  the  occupants  of  the  house. 

When  a  fuse  burns  out  there  is  a  cause  for  it,  and  if 
that  cause  is  not  apparent  to  you  an  electrician  should 
be  asked  to  find  and  remedy  the  cause. 

You  may  replace  the  fuse  temporarily  and  have  the 
use  of  the  lights.  If  the  wires  were  short  circuited 
the  new  fuse  will  blow  out,  but  that  will  do  no  harm. 
It  is  well  to  keep  several  new  fuses  in  the  box  for  emer- 
gencies and  to  discard  at  once  all  old  fuses. 

Remember,  if  you  cannot  account  for  the  burning  out 
of  a  fuse,  you  should  have  in  an  expert  who  can  do  so 
and  remedy  the  cause,  not  simply  replace  the  fuse. 

To  Estimate  the  Cost  of  Electric  Lighting 

Multiply  the  wattage  of  each  lamp  by  the  number  of 
hours  you  will  average  to  burn  that  light  each  day. 
Add  these  totals  and  multiply  by  the  number  of  days 
in  the  month.  Reduce  this  total  to  kilowatt  hours 
and  multiply  by  the  amount  charged  per  kilowatt 
hour, 

To  Reduce  the  Cost  of  Electric  Lighting 

Reduce  the  wattage  of  your  lamps  to  the  smallest 
amount  possible.  Two  25  watt  lamps  are  usually  as 
satisfactory  as  one  60  watt  lamp.  A  40  watt  lamp  is 
almost  always  possible  instead  of  a  60  watt  lamp  in  a 
small  room.  For  close  work  a  25  watt  lamp  will  give  as 
good  results  as  the  larger  ones  and  15  watt  lamps  can 
usually  be  substituted  for  the  larger  ones  in  passage- 
ways, closets,  and  toilet  rooms. 

The  nitrogen-filled  bulbs  give  more  and  better 
light  than  the  regular  bulbs,  but  the  original  cost  is 
more. 

Old  carbon  lamps  should  be  discarded.    A  16  candle 


READING  GAS  AND  ELECTRIC  METERS     217 

power  carbon  bulb  burns  56  watts  at  its  best,  60  watts 
when  old,  and  gives  far  less  light  than  a  40  watt  Mazda. 
There  are  at  present  sockets  which  may  be  adjusted 
so  as  to  control  the  amount  of  electricity  burned  and 
reduce  the  wattage  in  a  high  watt  bulb.  These  are 
cheaper  to  use  than  the  old  type  of  adjustable  bulbs 
and  give  better  light  at  all  times  and  new  bulbs  may 
be  put  in  when  the  old  ones  burn  out. 


CHAPTER  XIX 
PROGRAM   OF  WORK 

IT  is  better  to  have  a  plan  which  will  cover  the 
important  work  and  break  it  than  to  work  from  hour 
to  hour  heedlessly,  attending  to  every  non-essential 
which  thrusts  itself  forward. 

Objects: 

Accomplishment  of  work. 

Time  saved. 

Strength  conserved. 

Accomplishment  of  essentials,  elimination  of  the  un- 
important details. 

Methods: 
Consider  all. 
Choose  the  best  for  your  purpose. 

Requirements: 
To  do  satisfactory  work. 
Get  good  results. 
The  use  of  the  least  time. 
The  use  of  a  reasonable  amount  of  strength. 

Systems: 

Avoid  complicating  systems. 
Programs  must  be  flexible. 

Work: 

Make  program  for  maids: 
Weekly. 
Daily. 


PROGRAM  OF  WORK  219 

Weekly  program  should  include: 

Hours  of  work. 

Special  work  each  day. 

Free  time. 
Daily  program: 

Hours  for  regular  work. 

Hours  for  special  work. 

Free  time. 
Program  for  housekeeper: 

Daily  routine. 

Order  of  work  rather  than  hours  for  the  work. 

Allow  for  interruptions. 
Season's  program,  month  or  more: 

Vary  week's  program  to  fit. 

Special  work  planned  definitely  by  weeks. 

Programs  for  Housekeeper  or  Maid  should  be: 

(a)  Practical,  filling  requirements,  setting  a  standard. 
(6)  Considerate  of  self,  family,  maids. 

(c)  Adaptable,  to  unchangeable  conditions,  —  wood, 

coal,  gas. 
to  emergencies,  —  weather,  market  supply,  no 

water, 
to  changing  conditions,  —  lack  of  service,  new 

utensils,  new  facts. 

(d)  Insistent  on  essentials,  promptness,  cleanliness, 

order. 

(e)  With  recognition  of 

Family:    habits,  duties,  number. 
House:   arrangement,  size,  age. 
Number  of  workers. 
Conveniences,  or  the  lack  of  them. 
Time  required  for  each  task. 

(/)   Ingenious,  make  conditions  help,  eliminate  habits 
and  poor  conditions  when  possible. 


220    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

(g)  Aim  —  health  of  self  and  family. 
Comfort  of  self  and  family. 
Appearance  —  clean,  decent. 
Economy  of  strength,  money,  time. 

Programs  for  helpers: 
Must  include  consideration  of: 
The  Golden  Rule. 
The  human  element. 
The  number  of  working  hours. 
The  free  time  —  (not  broken  into). 
Time  spent  subject  to  call  is  not  rest  or  free  time. 
Extra  pay  for  extra  work. 
54r-58-60  hours  week? 

The  best  way  to  find  out  what  can  be  done  is  to  try 
to  do  it  in  the  time  allowed. 

Lines  of  Travel  should  be  considered: 
Maids,  — 

Kitchen  —  sink,  stove,  store  room,  table,  refriger- 
ator,  pantry,   utensils. 
Cellar  —  kindling,  coal,  wood,  ashes. 
Laundry  —  tubs,  wringer,  lines,  stove. 
Dining  room  —  dishes,  kitchen,  sink. 
Family,  — 

Bedrooms  —  closets,  dresser,  windows,  bed. 
Living  rooms  —  tables,  chairs,  ornaments,   other 
rooms. 

Order  of  Work: 

Plan  —  with  body  in  mind. 

Aim  —  gentle  exercise. 

Dangers  —  too  much  exercise  at  a  time,  too  severe 

exercise  at  a  time. 
Position  —  spine  erect,  head  up,  neck  against   the 

back  of  the  collar. 
Bend  the  body  at  the  knees  and  hips  —  too  much 


PROGRAM  OF  WORK  221 

forward  bending  is  wrong  —  avoid  stooping  and 

holding  the  head  forward. 
Shoulders  —  dropped  going  upstairs. 
Walk  —  change  frequently,  flat  on  the  foot,  the  toes 

down  first,  on  the  toes  backward  and  forward. 
Rest  —  frequently,    close   the   eyes   or   look   away, 

change   work,    don't   stand   when   you    can   sit, 

don't  sit  when  you  can  lie  down,   remove  the 

shoes  while  resting,   change  shoes  to  rest  your 

feet. 

Breathe  DEEPLY  as  often  as  possible. 
Avoid  too  long  continued  use  of  one  set  of  muscles. 
Arrange  sequence  of  processes  to  obtain  sequence  of 

exercise. 

Program  Hints  for  Housekeepers 

For  Early  Hours: 

Dust  the  dining  room,  air  downstairs  rooms,  sweep 
the  piazzas. 

After  Breakfast: 

Sweep  the  dining  room,  arrange  the  bedrooms, 
dust  the  living  rooms,  clean  the  bath  rooms,  do 
the  special  work  of  the  day. 

General  Rules: 
Each  member  of  the  family  should  have  a  share  in 

the  house  duties,   no  matter  how  slight.     Upon 

its  execution  should  depend  the  comfort,  in  some 

measure,  of  the  family  as  a  whole. 
Work  done  at  night  will  not  have  to  be  repeated  in 

the  A.M.  when  time  is  crowded. 
The  breakfast  table  may  be  set  and  covered,  and  the 

living  rooms  put  in  order  and  aired,  the  last  thing 

at  night. 


222    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Program  Hints  for  Cook  and  Second  Maid 

The  following  programs  for  cook  and  second  maid 
are  suggestive  only. 

Individuals  must  substitute  as  needs  require. 


COOK'S   PROGRAM 


58-60  Hours  per  Week 
Cooks  and  serves  meals. 
Attends  to  left-over  food. 
Responsible  for  cleanliness  and  order  of:  refrigerator, 

pantry,    store   rooms,   basement    stairs,   kitchen, 

back  porch,  toilet. 
Time  spent  doing  personal  laundry  should  not  be 

counted  in  the  hours  per  week. 
May  plan  her  work  as  she  chooses,  but  must  arrange 

definite  days  for  each  part  of  the  cleaning. 
Waits  on  table  when  second  maid  is  away. 
Alternates  with  second  maid  in  answering  doorbells 

evenings. 

Has  one  afternoon  and  evening  free  each  week. 
Has  every  other  Sunday  afternoon  and  evening  free. 

SUGGESTIVE    PROGRAM    FOR    COOK'S    CLEANING 

Monday: 

Mop  kitchen  and  laundry  floors. 
Tuesday: 

Clean  ice  box. 

Put  store  room  in  order. 
Wednesday: 

Clean  pantry  and  put  it  in  order. 
Thursday: 

Clean  back  porch  and  toilet. 

Clean  basement  stairs. 


PROGRAM  OF  WORK  223 

Friday: 

Put  ice  box  in  order. 
Clean  her  own  room. 

Saturday: 

Clean  gas  and  coal  ranges. 

Clean  and  put  kitchen  in  perfect  order. 

Sunday: 

Arrange  to  do  only  necessary  work. 

All  possible  Sunday  cooking  to  be  done  Saturday. 

Second  Maid  Program 

Responsible  for  waiting  on  table,  care  and  order  of 
dining  room,  living  room,  bedrooms,  halls,  bathrooms, 
table  silver,  china. 

Wash  and  iron  table  napkins  and  doilies. 

Answer  doorbells  and  telephone,  if  the  family  is  away. 

Prepare  bedrooms  for  the  night. 

Sweep  front  piazza  and  steps. 

Cook  and  serve  meals  when  the  cook  is  away. 

Alternate  with  the  cook  in  the  evening,  answering 
doorbells. 

SUGGESTIVE  DAY*S  PROGRAM  FOR  SECOND  MAID 

Breakfast  at  7.30. 
Before  Breakfast: 

Air  living  rooms  and  put  them  in  order.     Dust  pol- 
ished surfaces. 
Set  table. 
Serve  breakfast. 
Eat  own  breakfast. 

NOTE  :  In  many  households  the  maids  prefer  to 
eat  their  own  meals  before  the  family  meal  is 
served.  When  this  is  impossible  the  maids' 


224    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

meal  time  is  adjusted  to  the  convenience  of  the 

individual  household. 
Clear  table. 

Wash  dishes  and  dish  towels. 
Leave  dining  room  and  pantry  in  order. 
Make  beds. 

Do  necessary  dusting  of  floors  in  bedrooms  and  halls. 
Put  bathrooms  hi  order. 
Dust  living  rooms. 
Do  special   work   for  the  day   (ironing  —  cleaning 

silver). 

12  o'clock  set  table  for  luncheon. 
12.30  eat  own  luncheon. 
1  P.M.  serve  luncheon. 

Have  dishes  done  and  everything  in  order  by  2.30. 
From  2.30  to  3.30  resting  time. 
From  3.30  to  5.30  answer  bells. 
Prepare  dining  room  for  dinner.    Eat  own  dinner. 
Serve  dinner  and  clear  away. 
Leave  dining  room  and  pantry  in  order. 
Prepare  bedrooms  for  the  night. 

Suggestive  Program  for  Special  Work  for 
Housemaid 

Monday: 

Count  and  put  up  flat  work  for  laundry. 
Thoroughly  clean  the  bathroom. 
Wash  doilies  and  napkins. 

Tuesday: 

Ironing. 
Wednesday : 

Clean  the  bedrooms  (it  may  be  necessary  to  divide 
the  rooms  and  thoroughly  clean  half  of  them 
alternate  weeks). 


PROGRAM  OF  WORK  225 

Thursday: 

Clean  silver  —  afternoon  out. 
Friday: 

Clean  living  rooms  and  halls. 
Saturday: 

Wash  and  iron  necessary  napkins  and  doilies. 

Clean  pantry. 
Sunday: 

Do  only  necessary  work. 

Problems  for  Housekeeper 

The  paths  you  take  in  your  work  or  occupation  of 
a  room  are  lines  of  travel. 

I.   Sketch  your  kitchen  and  dot  in  the  lines  of 

travel. 
Could  they  be  shortened? 

Without  expense? 

With  expense? 

Would  time  and  strength  be  saved? 

Do  they  cross? 

Can  that  be  avoided? 

Consider  speed  in  work  and  convenience. 
II.  Sketch  your  bedroom  and  living  room. 
Dot  in  the  lines  of  travel. 
Do  they  cross? 
Are  they  unnecessarily  long? 
Will  moving  furniture  shorten  them? 

For  the  occupants? 

For  the  caretakers? 
Consider  —  closets,  clothing,  doors,  chairs,  bed, 

and  dresser,  tables,  lights,  windows. 
Consider,  — convenience,  beauty  of  arrangement, 

restfulness  of  appearance. 


CHAPTER  XX 
HOUSEHOLD    PESTS 

Flies 

Danger: 

Carriers  of  disease  germs  and  filth. 

They  carry  filth  and  disease  germs  on.  their  feet, 

legs,  and  bodies,  and  in  their  digestive  track  and 

leave  them  on  food. 
Breeding  Places: 
Garbage  pails,  barn  cellars,  open  privies,  manure 

heaps,  pig  pens,  decaying  fruit. 
Prevention : 

Elimination  or  regular   disinfection  of  all  possible 

breeding   places   (one  gallon  water  to  2  Ib.  iron 

sulfate  or  2J  Ib.  dry   sulfate    sufficient   amount 

to  disinfect  the  manure  from  one  horse). 
Careful  screening  of  all  houses  and  stables. 
The  storage  of  manure  in  dark  well-screened  rooms 

or  tight  cement  pits. 
The  spreading  thin  of  all  manure  when  taken  from 

these  pits. 
Close  screening  or  inclosing  of  all  open  privies  (see 

Farmers'  Bulletin  #463). 
Frequent  emptying  of  garbage  cans. 
Complete  burial  or  burning  of  all  decaying  animal  or 

vegetable  matter. 
Remedies: 

Drive  from  a  dark  room  toward  a  bright  light,— 

" Hodge"  or  other  traps,  well  baited  with  bread 

and  milk  or  banana. 


HOUSEHOLD  PESTS  227 

Insect  powder: 

Pyrethum,  —  hard  to  get  fresh. 

Buhach,  —  fresher  and  more  effective.     Sprinkle 

freely  all  about  the  room  at  night,   close  the 

room  tight,  and  in  the  morning  sweep  up  the 

stupefied  flies  and  burn  them. 
Fly  Paper : 
Tanglefoot  or  poison  paper  effective  —  the  latter 

dangerous  if  children  or  pets  can  reach  it. 
Formaldehyde: 
One  tablespoon  of  40%  solution  in  one  pint  of 

milk  and  water  with  a  piece  of  bread. 
Expose  in  a  shallow  dish  near  a  single  ray  of  light 

coming  into  an  otherwise  dark  room.     There 

must  be  no  other  food  about. 

Special  Care  needed  in  the  House: 

Protect  food  by  screens,  covers,  boxes,  etc. 
Thoroughly  screen  or  cover  all  garbage  until  it  can 

be  burned,  buried,  or  otherwise  safely  disposed  of. 
Thoroughly  disinfect  or  burn  excretions  of  patients 

suffering  from  typhoid  fever  or  other  intestinal 

disease.     In  such  cases  ask  for  and  carry  out  special 

instructions  from  the  Board  of  Health  or  Physician. 
Keep  flies  from  the  kitchen  and  dining  room;  they 

contaminate  the  food. 
Keep  flies  from  the  living  rooms  and  bedrooms ;  they 

are  annoying  and  disagreeable. 
Keep  flies  from  the  sick  room;  they  are  annoying  and 

may  spread  contagion. 

Mosquitoes 

Dangers: 

Carriers  of  malaria  and  other  diseases. 
Source  of  discomfort. 


228    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Breeding  Places: 
Common  mosquitoes: 
Water  in  traps  or  toilet   utensils  which  are  not 

used  frequently. 
Roadside   pools,    sewers,    rain  barrels,  tin    cans, 

any  receptacle  which  contains  stagnant  water. 
Malarial  mosquitoes: 
Edges  of  creeks,  brooks,  ditches. 

Prevention: 

Drain  or  fill  all  pools  of  stagnant  water. 
Cover    the    surfaces  of    water    which    cannot    be 

drained  with  oil  or  kerosene. 
Where   pools   cannot    be   drained    or   oiled,    stock 

with  fish. 

Empty  all  buckets  or  barrels  frequently. 
Screen  all  water  barrels  with  fine  mosquito-proof 

wire  netting. 
See  that   no  empty  cans  or  boxes  are  allowed  to 

stand  open  to  catch  water  in  yards  or  dumping 

places. 

Remedies: 

Use  a  mixture  of  two  ounces  oil  of  citronella,  one 
ounce  of  oil  of  cedar,  one  ounce  spirits  of  camphor, 
on  the  hands,  face,  and  ankles.  Mix  the  liquid 
with  white  vaseline  and  it  will  be  effective  longer. 

Catch  mosquitoes  on  the  screens  in  early  morning 
or  on  the  ceiling  at  night. 

A  tin  cup  fastened  to  a  stick,  filled  with  hot  soapy 
water  and  held  directly  under  mosquitoes  on  the 
ceiling,  will  stupefy  them  and  they  will  drop  into 
the  water. 

Screen  house  and  cellar  windows  and  doors;  use  very 
fine  wire  and  cover  the  whole  window  if  possible. 

Adjustable  screens  are  nearly  useless  for  mosquitoes. 


HOUSEHOLD  PESTS  229 

If  all  other  means  of  prevention  fail,  sleep  under 

netting. 

If  in  a  " malarial  section"  screen  the  porches. 
Read  Rules  for  Prevention  of  Yellow  Fever  (Public 

Health  and  Marine  Hospital  Service). 

Moths 

Destroy  woolen,  silk,  or  cotton  materials  according 
to  kind  of  moths. 

Source: 

Eggs  are  laid  on  material  which  serves  as  food  to 
larvae  when  they  hatch. 

Prevention: 

Clean  perfectly,  brush,  and  hang  in  the  sun  and 
air  —  to  be  sure  there  are  no  eggs  or  larvae  on  the 
clothing. 
Store  in  sealed  boxes  or  moth-proof  bags  or  seal  in 

newspaper  and  tie  in  cotton  bags. 
Cold  storage  effective  but  expensive. 

Facts  to  remember: 

Strong  odors  of  camphor,   cedar,  moth  balls,  etc., 

do  not  kill  moth  eggs  or  larvae. 
If  eggs  are  shut  in  with  clothing  moths  will  hatch 

and  eat  the  material. 
Garments   worn   frequently   are   less    liable   to   be 

eaten    than    those    left    undisturbed    in   a   dark 

closet. 
Sunshine  and  ah-  are   the   best  protection  against 

moths. 

Spraying  with  benzene  will  kill  any  eggs  or  larvae. 
Carbon  bisulphide  or  gasolene  in  an  uncorked  bottle 

shut  into  a  tight  box  or  trunk  is  protection  for 

clothing  in  the  trunk. 


230    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Buffalo  Bugs 

Dangers: 

The  injury  is  from  the  larvae,  which  are  brown  and 
hairy,  grow  rapidly,  eat  voraciously,  and  destroy 
much  material. 

Prevention: 

Is  difficult  if  they  are  once  in  a  house. 

Spray  walls  and  cracks  with  gasolene,  wash  floors 
and  shelves  with  gasolene  or  kerosene  (both  are  in- 
flammable —  beware  of  flame). 

Remedies: 

Care  for  and  protect  clothing  as  from  moths. 

Eliminate  carpets  as  far  as  possible. 

Lay  pieces  of  soft  wool  on  closet  floors  and  trap  the 

larvae.    Examine  the  cloths  every  day. 
Buffalo  bugs  are  more  likely  than  moths  to  eat 

clothing  which  is  in  use. 
Fumigation   with    hydrocyanic   gas    is   effectual  - 

but  the  gas  is  a  deadly  poison. 
Such  fumigation  should  only  be  undertaken  by  a  very 

careful  painstaking  person  who  understands  the 

danger. 
Read  Hydrocyanic  Gas  against  Household  Pests,  - 

circular  163,  Bureau  of  Entomology,  U.  S.  Dept.  of 

Agriculture. 

Fleas 

Two  kinds  (troublesome  to  the  housewife):  cat  and 
dog  fleas  and  the  human  flea. 

Dangers: 

Carriers  of  disease,  source  of  extreme  discomfort. 
Sources: 

House  pets  —  unclean  conditions. 


HOUSEHOLD  PESTS  231 

Prevention: 

Cleanliness,  special  care  of  pets. 
Remedies: 

Spray  floors  and  rugs  with  benzine  or  gasolene. 

(Do  not  allow  any  flame  in  the  room.) 

In  bad  cases  remove  floor  coverings  and  wash  the 
floors  and  rugs  with  strong  soapsuds. 

Ants 

Danger: 

Destruction  of  food. 
Source: 

Nests  in  decaying  wood  or  in  earth  near  the  house; 
tracks  to  the  house  may  often  be  found. 

Gathering  Places: 

Sweet  foods  and  fats,  greasy  pans  and  dishes. 
Prevention  in  the  House: 

Perfectly  tight  floors  and  base-boards,  fine  screens  in 
the  windows,  destruction  of  nests  when  possible. 

Remedies: 

Strong  oil  of  sassafras  around   each  dish   of  food 

or  at  every  crack  where  they  can  come  in. 
Place  food  on  a  table  and  stand    the  legs   of  the 

table  in  jars  of  water  covered  with  oil;   this  is 

efficient  for  small  ants.     Giant  ants  will  manage 

to  cross  it. 
Trap  the   ants   in   a  sponge   soaked   in   sweetened 

water  or  by  a  rind  of  pork  or  bacon,  and  pour 

boiling  water  over  them. 
Kerosene  oil  in  the  crack  where  they   enter  will 

drive  them  away. 
Tartar   emetic   in   sirup,   exposed    in   small   dishes 

where  the  ants  are  eating,  is  often  effective. 


232    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Strong  powdered  cloves  will  often  drive  them 
away. 

Notes: 

The  tiny  red  ants  or  emmets  are  frequently 
swarming  all  over  food,  tables  and  utensils  before 
they  are  discovered. 

They  travel  in  procession  and  their  point  of  entrance 
can  usually  be  traced. 

Wash  the  shelves  where  they  are  found  with 
scalding  water  and  wipe  with  a  kerosene  cloth 
-  repeat  frequently. 

The  giant  black  ants  and  the  smaller  black  ants 
may  be  driven  away  by  the  use  of  strong  oil 
of  sassafras  or  fresh  ground  cloves;  but  there 
is  no  remedy  absolutely  effective  if  the  giant 
black  ants  are  persistent. 

These  large  ants  will  carry  away  their  dead;  they 
will  go  up  the  wall  and  climb  over  on  the 
under  side  of  a  shelf  and  drop  on  to  food  which 
has  been  protected  by  rings  of  sassafras  or 
poison.  They  will  swim  across  dishes  of  water 
to  reach  food.  They  will  follow  food  which 
has  been  moved. 

Eternal  vigilance  is  the  only  safeguard. 

Bed  Bugs 

Dangers: 
Annoyance,  possible  disease  carriers. 

Source: 

Chance  contact  in  street  car,  travel,  clothing,  bot- 
tom of  baskets  or  bags. 

May  be  part  of  an  army  traveling  from  house  to 
house. 


HOUSEHOLD  PESTS  233 

Breeding  Places: 

Dark,  dusty  cracks. 
Prevention: 

Watch  packages  and  clothing  after  travel. 
If  one  is  found,  look  carefully  for  others  and  repeat 
the  examination  at  intervals  of   two  days  until 
convinced  they  are  gone. 
Remedies: 

Kerosene  or  gasolene  (BE  SURE   there   is  no  flame 
about),  spray  into  cracks  and  wipe  all  surfaces. 
Repeat  several  times,  with  intervals  between. 
Boiling  water  is  effective  when  it  will  not  injure 

the  furniture. 

Corrosive  sublimate  solution  is  good,  but  is  poison; 
be  careful  not  to  leave  either  tablets  or  solution 
where  children  or  pets  will  get  them;  bottles 
should  be  plainly  marked  and  put  away. 

Cockroaches 

Danger: 

Destruction  of  food,  production  of  filth. 
Source: 

Dampness,  filth. 
Breeding  Places: 

Plumbing,  damp  cellars  or  closets. 
Prevention: 

Keep  shelves  and  pipes  and  cracks  dry  and  clean. 

Remedies: 

Sprinkle  borax  or  insect  powder  freely  wherever 
they  come.  Replace  borax  whenever  it  is  washed 
or  brushed  up.  No  remedy  is  very  successful  as 
long  as  there  is  dampness.  Stop  up  cracks;  re- 
place damp  decaying  wood  with  dry  wood  and 
fresh  paint. 


234    MARKETING  AND  HOUSEWORK  MANUAL 

Rats  and  Mice 
Dangers: 

Destruction  of  food  and  clothing,  disease  carriers. 
Source: 

Walls,  cellars,  holes,  sewers. 
Prevention: 

Stop  up  all  holes  and  cracks  with  broken  glass  and 

cover  with  sheet  metal. 
Cover  all  food,  have  no  crumbs  of  food  about. 
Remedy: 

Use  a  trap,   set  with   cheese,   near  the  wall  and 
close  to  the  hole  of  entrance.     Traps  are  useless 
if  there  is  other  food  obtainable.     A  good  cat  is 
usually  the  best  trap. 
Use  poison  if  there  are  no  pets  about. 

Molds 

Dangers: 

Spoil  food,  disfigure  fabrics,  cause  musty  odor,  are 

indicative  of  dampness. 
Source: 

The  air. 
Breed: 

In  dampness. 
Prevention: 

Good  drainage,  dry   air  in   the   house   and  cellar, 

dry  refrigerator. 
Remedies: 

Keep  foods  cold,  covered,  and  dry. 
Scald  storage  utensils  and  dry  in  the  sun. 
Fresh  air  and  sunshine  failing,  start  fires  long  enough 
to  dry  the  air  in  the  house  and  prevent  the  growth 
of  molds  on  fabrics. 


HOUSEHOLD  PESTS  235 

Weevils,  Moths,  Beetles,  Worms 

Dangers: 

Destruction  of  cereals. 

Source  (in  house): 

Cereals  already  infected  when  purchased,  old  or  im- 
perfectly cleaned  storage  boxes. 

Prevention: 

Careful  watching  and  quick  removal  of  any  in- 
fected cereals.  Tightly  closed  boxes  or  jars  for 
storage  of  cereals. 

Remedies: 

The  careful  cleaning  of  all  storage  utensils. 

Throwing  away  of  infected  material. 

Large   amounts   of  flour  may  be   fumigated   with 

carbon  bisulphide. 

This  gas  is  inflammable;  no  lights  should  be  used  near 
the  room  until  the  gas  has  disappeared. 


INDEX 


ADULTERATIONS,  62 
Agate  ware,  care  of,  142 
Aluminum,  care  of,  142 

BALL  COCKS,  212 
Bath  room,  care  of,  174 

fixtures,  to  clean,  174-175 
Bed  making,  170 
Bedrooms,  daily  care  of,  169 
Beef,  points  of  choice,  12 
Beef  charts,  13-17 
Books,  dusting,  190 
Brass,  to  clean,  165 
Breakfast  dishes,  suggested,  94 
Brooms,  184 

CARE  OF  BATH  ROOM,  174 

cellar,  115 

cleaning  utensils,  192 

dining  room,  152 

kerosene  stoves,  133 

kitchen,  127 

linoleum,  145,  187 

living  room,  160 

refrigerator,  138 

sinks,  137 

Carpet  sweepers,  183 
Cellar,  care  of,  115 
Chamber  work,  167 

problems,  173 
China  closet,  178 
Cleaning,  bath  room,  174 

bath  room  fixtures,  174 

brass,  165 

copper,  165 

enameled  wood,  194 

finished  wood,  194 


floors,  185 

furniture,  164 

general,  181 

general  rules  for,  191 

materials  for,  191 

methods  of,  193 

natural  wood,  196 

paint,  196 

shellac  or  varnish,  195 

stained  wood,  195 

unfinished  wood,  193 

utensils,  care  of,  192 

wax  surfaces,  197 

woods,  193-197 
Closed  house.     See  HOUSE. 
Closing  of  house,  actual,  203 
Clothes,  closets,  177-178 

storage,  178 
Coal  range,  choice  of,  127 

construction  and  parts,  128 

facts  to  remember,  129 
Cooking  utensils,  141 

care  of,  141 
Cook's  program,  222 
Copper  and  brass,  to  clean,  165 

DAY'S  FOOD,  SHOULD  PROVIDE,  100 
Desserts,  91-93 

luncheon,  96 
Dining  room,  care  of,  152 

pantry,  care  of,  146 
Dinner  meats,  86-87 

sources  of,  181 

Dirt,  methods  for  removal  of,  191 
Dish  towels,  151 
Dish  washing,  147 
Dust,  source  of,  187 


238 


INDEX 


Dusting,  aim  in,  187 
books,  190 
floors,  189 
furniture,  190 
methods  for,  189 
pictures,  191 
purpose  of,  188 
utensils  for,  189 

ELECTRIC  LIGHTING,  TO  ESTIMATE 
COST  OP,  216 

to  reduce  cost  of,  216 

meter,  to  read,  215 
Enameled  wood,  cleaning,  194 

FAUCETS,  DRIPPING,  212 
Finished  wood,  cleaning,  194 
Fire,  to  lay  a  fire  place,  160 
Fireless  cookers,  care  of,  135 

construction  of,  134 

method  of  use  of,  135 

purpose  of,  134 

use  of,  134 
Fish,   general  rules  for  purchase 

of,  32 

points  of  choice  of,  32 
Fish  chart,  33-41 
Flies,  226 
Floors,  care  of  utensils,  186 

cleaning,  185 

dusting,  189 

kitchen,  145 

sweeping,  184 

to  oil  or  wax,  186 
Food,  the  day's,  100 
Food  inventory,  to  take  a,  107- 

112 

Food  storage  closet,  176 
Foods,    grouped    to    show    uses, 

102-106 
Fruit,  general  rules  for  purchase 

of,  42 

Fruit  chart,  43-48 
Furniture,  to  clean,  164 

dusting,  190 


to  polish,  165 
to  repair,  210 

GARNISHES,  87-89 

Gas  meter,  to  read  a,  214 

Gas  range,  choice  of,  130 
construction  of,  130 
use  and  care  of,  131 

General  cleaning,  181 

General  rules  for  cleaning,  191 
marketing,  5 

Groceries,  general  rules  for  pur- 
chase, 62 

Grocery  Chart,  65-78 

Grouping    foods    to    show    uses, 
102-106 

Guest  room,  172 

HOUSE,    DANGERS    TO    A    CLOSED, 

199 

birds,    200 

burglars,  201 

dampness,  200 

fire,  199 

insects  and  vermin,  201 

roof  leaks,  200 

squirrels,  200 

waste  pipes,  200 

water  supply,  199 
House,  inspection,  205 

buying,  before,  205 

renting,  before,  205 

seasonal,  206 
House  repairs,  fall,  206 

spring,  206 

records  of,  207 

House,  special  care  to  closed,  201, 
203 

books,  201 

brasses,  202 

carpets,  202 

chandelier,  201 

fabrics,  202 

furniture,  201 

furs,  202 


INDEX 


239 


glassware,  201 

heater,  201 

iron  fixtures,  202 

mattresses,  203 

pictures,  201 

pillows,  203 

rugs,  202 

shades,  203 
House,  to  close,  203 

to  open,  204 

to  open  and  close  a,  199 
Housekeepers'  program,  219 
Housemaids'  closet,  176 

INSURANCE,  204 

Inventory  of    house    furnishings, 

204 
Ironware,  care  of,  142 

KEROSENE  STOVES,  USE  AND  CARE 

OF,  133 
Keys,  204 
Kitchen,  care  of,  127 

closets,  144 

dishes  and  utensils,  141 

floors,  145 

iron,  136 

porcelain,  136 

sinks,  choice  of,  135 
slate,  136 
soapstone,    136 

tables,  shelves,  and  floors,  144 

use  and  care  of,  137 

waste,  disposal  of,  140 

LAMB,  POINTS  OF  CHOICE,  18 
Lamb  chart,  19-21 
Laundry,     equipment,     movable, 
117 

equipment,    stationary,    117 

list  of  equipment  and  mate- 
rials, 119 

colored  clothes,  123 

flannels,  124 

ironing,  122 


methods,  120 

silks,  123 

sorting  clothes,  120 

stockings,  124 

to  blue  clothes,  121 

to  clean  the,  120,  135 

to  dry  clothes,  121 

to  starch  clothes,  121 

white  clothes,  121 
Left-overs,  suggested  use  of,  93-94 
Linen  closets,  177 
Lines  of  travel,  220-225 
Linoleum,  care  of,  145,  187 
Living  room,  daily  care  of,  160 

to  clean,  161 
Luncheon  desserts,  96 

dishes,  suggested,  94-96 

MARBLE,  TO  CLEAN,  198 
Marketing,  buying,  6-8 

general  rules  for,  5-6 

methods  of,  6 
Marketing  charts 

description  of,  9 

beef,  forequarter,  13-14 
hind  quarter,  15-16 
other  cuts,  17 

lamb,  19-20 

mutton,  19-20 

veal,  22-23 

pork,  25-26 

poultry,  28-31 

fish,  33-41 

fruit,  43-48 

vegetable,  51-61 

groceries,  65-78 
Materials  for  cleaning,  191 
Meat,  selection  of,  10 
Meats,  dinner,  86-87 
Medicine  closet,  179 
Menu  and  order  sheets,  97-99 
Menu  making,  80 

chart  plan,  85-96 

ring  and  card  plan,  82-85 
Menu  charts,  86-96 


240 


INDEX 


Meter,  gas,  214,  electric,  215 
Methods  of  cleaning,  193 

marketing,  6 
Mice,  234 
Milk,  directions  for  purchase  of, 

79 

Milk  bottles,  care  of,  144 
Mirrors,  to  clean,  198 
Molds,  234 
Mops,  dry,  184 
Mosquitoes,  227 
Moths,  229-235 
Mutton,  points  of  choice,  18 
Mutton  Chart,  19-21 

NATURAL  WOOD,   CLEANING,    196 

OPENING  A  HOUSE,  204 
Order  Sheets,  97-99 

PAINT,  CLEANING,  196 

care  of  dining  room,  146 
Pantry,  equipment,  146 
Pests,  ants,  231 

bed  bugs,  232 

beetles,  235 

buffalo  bugs,  230 

cockroaches,  233 

fleas,  230 

Picture  glass,  to  clean,  198 
Pictures,    dusting,    191 
Plumbing,    personal    responsibil- 
ity for,  176 

repairs,  211 

troubles  and  remedies,  211 
Pork,  points  of  choice,  24 
Pork  chart,  25-26 
Poultry,   general  rules  for  selec- 
tion of,  27 

Poultry  chart,  28-30 
Preservatives,  62 
Problems  for  housekeeper,  219 

daily,  219 
Program,  for  cook,  222 

helpers,  220 


housekeepers,  219 
second  maid,  223 
work,  223 
weekly,  219 

QUANTITIES,  PURCHASING  IN,  63 

RANGE,  GAS,  130-131 

coal,  127-129 
Rats  and  mice,  234 
Reading  lamp,  to  care  for  a,  161 
Refrigerator,  choice  of,  137 

to  clean,  139 

use  and  care  of,  138 
Relishes,  87-89 
Repairs,  seasonal,  206-207 

to  house,  208 
Rules  for  buying,  6-8 

SECOND  MAID'S  PROGRAM,  223 

Sewing  closet,  179 

Shellac,  cleaning,  195 

Silver,  to  clean,  150 

Sinks,  kitchen,  135-137 

Small  repairs,  house  and  furniture, 

208 

Soups,  suggested  use  of,  93 
Special  care  in  closed  house,  201 
Stained  wood,  cleaning,  195 
Steel  knives,  care  of,  144 
Storage   closets,    176 
Stoves,  coal,  127-129 

gas,  130-131 

kerosene,  133 
Sweeping,  carpet,  185 

dangers  from,  185 

floor,  184 

linoleum,  184 

methods  of,  184 

need  for,  181 

utensils  for,  182 

TABLE  LINEN,  146 
service,  155-159 
setting,  152-155 


INDEX 


241 


Tin  ware,  care  of,  142 
Toilet,  174 
Towels,  dish,  151 

UNFINISHED  WOOD,  193 
Utensils  for  cleaning,  use  and  care 
of,  191 

cooking,  141 

sweeping,  use  and  care  of,  182 

VACUUM  CLEANERS,  183 
to  clean  with  a,  162 
Varnish,  cleaning,  195 
Varnished  floors,  145 
Veal,  points  of  choice  of,  21 
Veal  chart,  22-23 
Vegetable  chart,  51-61 


Vegetables,  general  rules  for  pur- 
chase of,  49 
starchy,  89-90 
succulent,  89-90 

WASHING,  DISH,  147 
Waste,  disposal  of  kitchen,  140 
Water  hammer,  211 
Waxed  floor,  care  of,  185 
Wax  surfaces,  cleaning,  197 
Weevils,  235 
Windows,  to  clean,  196 
Wooden  ware,  care  of,  143 
Woods,  to  clean,  193-197 
Worms,  235 

ZlNC  COVERED  TABLES,  144 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW 


AN  INITIAL  FINE  OF  25  CENTS 

WILL  BE  ASSESSED  FOR  FAILURE  TO  RETURN 
THIS  BOOK  ON  THE  DATE  DUE.  THE  PENALTY 
WILL  INCREASE  TO  SO  CENTS  ON  THE  FOURTH 
DAY  AND  TO  $1.OO  ON  THE  SEVENTH  DAY 
OVERDUE. 


LD  21-100m-7,'39(402s) 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


